If you had 10,000$ to build an "all purpose" Tacoma, how would you do it?

I have re-phrased the original Question.
Please re-read then comment.
Thank you for your comments and suggestions thus far, keep them coming!!
Thanks.
Bodhi Armor.

 

I'd do the same as what Box Rocker said.

 

Full armor (bumpers, sliders, skids) - $3k
Wheels & Tires - $2k
Regear - $2k
Suspension setup (Full OME with shackle flip & Shock relocation) - $2k
Electronics (lights/CB/misc) - $1k

 

WINNER WINNER, CHICKEN DINNER!!

Spot on sir!! That is almost exactly what I had in mind.

Good post.

 

Box Rocket knows what's up.

 

So I've asked the $10,000 question without answering it for myself.
Well, here it is...

$ Since the most important thing is Dependability, I wouldn't modify the engine or drive train too much. As far as replacement parts I would use almost all OEM. Then just sit back and let the legendary Toyota engineering work its magic.

$500 -I would replace as many of the drive train Seals, bushings, boots, belts, sensors, filters, blah blah blah, that don't require major labor. Unless of course they need replacing.

$500 -Full, thorough tune up.

$800 -New exhaust and intake. something that sounds good and increases the amount of air moving thru my v6

$1500 -Most likely, a full ome (not exactly sure about brand) sport tuned suspension. 2.5" front lift, 2" rear (I need some advice on this please) Whatever setup combines exceptional road handling with considerable offroad abilities. If I decide to tear ass down a rough dirt road, or crawl up a hill, I don't want to f*%k up my suspension, or worse.

$800 -33" 285's (I've heard great things about Cooper AT Maxx) AT tires on stock aluminum, powder coated wheels.

$650 -light racing UCA's

$800 -Tundra brake upgrade mod, new brake lines, brake modified where needed.

$2000 -Powder coated front and back plate bumpers w/ winches, Sliders, and an OD green Budbuilt skid plate

$1500 -Most likely, a full ome (not exactly sure about brand) sport tuned suspension. 2.5" front lift, 2" rear (I need some advice on this please) Whatever setup combines exceptional road handling with considerable offroad abilities. If I decide to tear ass down a rough dirt road, or crawl up a hill, I don't want to f*%k up my suspension, or worse.

$800 -33" 285's (I've heard great things about Cooper AT Maxx) AT tires on stock aluminum, powder coated wheels.

$2,000 -Re-gear front and back differential. I keep hearing 4.88

Of course these are rough cost estimates, but I'm pretty sure I could get all this done for around 10k.

Now, time to go find 10 g's!!

 

I think a full exhaust is a waste of money. At most, all you need is a nice muffler like a Magnaflow. You won't see any real gains at all from the exhaust so it's not worth changing. Same goes for the intake. Personally I'm not even a fan of the deckplate mod. It ads some noise but really not much true performance gain. Save that money for a quality reusable air filter in the stock box and call it good.

Tires are going to cost you closer to $1000 all said and done for 33's. I don't have experience with the Coopers.

Tundra brakes are great, but you are forced to run 16" wheels or bigger. I left my brakes stock so I could keep running 15" wheels since the tires are cheaper and I prefer more sidewall. I think my brakes are still just fine even with all the weight on my truck now. You could leave your brakes alone and use that money for something else or save it for gas money for the cool trips you'll want to take after you're all done.

As for suspension on a DC. I personally would suggest OME 882 coils, 10mm JK trim packer, OME Dakar leafs and the D6XL extra leaf, and of course the OME Nitrocharger Sport shocks. Don't bother with the exhaust relocation bracket and just cut your tailpipe behind the axle. Take a look at the first part of my build thread. It's pretty much the same suspension setup I'm using and I've been extremely happy with it. It gets used in all conditions, rocks, fast desert stuff, touring, it's even been jumped, and it's a daily driver. Hit up Kurt or Bryce at Cruiser Outfitters and they can hook you up on the suspension and get you all the right parts.

 

the wheels i have now are aluminum 16s that i powdercoated black, so ill likely stick with those.

Tundra brakes seem like a good idea, especially if im carrying heavy plate bumpers and heavier tires. Or at least thats what i keep reading.
Im going to do the suspension first so i need all the advice i can get, Thanks.

 

I basically built the truck you are looking for. Here's what i did and would do over again if i had too:

Buy a welder and learn how to weld
Start with a TRD for the elocker
Sliders (trail gear)
Winch
Bumper to house the winch
Full Skids
Rear bumper (you can fab this if you have the money/skills for cheap)
Crawlbox (probibly around 2k when all is said and done but by far the best mod you can do to a truck)
OME 882's
Set of rear leafs (your choice)
U bolt flip kit
new rear shocks
255/85/16s

That's all probibly around $8k (estimate).
I daily drove this setup since 2008 on a 100 mile round trip commute, the truck hasn't changed much since and I have run some hard trails with it and driven it to and from each one. The truck was built for reliability and has lived up to that challenge so far. I have been running stock 4.10s and havent messed with the diff gears. I drive it as a 4spd on the highway and have not had any problems. I'm ready to take the next step and do an SAS on this truck since i have maxed out the capability of this setup and i now have a DD. I'm keeping with the reliability theme and keeping it simple and strong.

 

I'd take the $10k and find a straight axle 4Runner, and cannibalize the 3.4 and elocker rear for the 4Runner. Sell Taco remains, 22R, and 4Runner axle. Leftover money, buy a welder, learn to weld.

 

It seems like getting a daily driver is probably one of the best mods you can do to your truck.

 

Holy hell, 800 dollars for Tundra brakes? Go to the junkyard and grab some rotors, calipers and the brake pads(if you want) from a 2001 Tundra. Get rotors resurfaced, sand and paint calipers. Order new brake lines if you don't want to modify your existing lines. Install with new brake fluid (bleed system) and enjoy the new braking power. Don't forget you need at least 16" rims to clear the calipers. I spent 150$ total by reusing my brake lines.

 

Wow $150, thats an awesome tip!

Ive read the tundra brake upgrade cost approx $600. I included an extra $200 for new brake lines (maybe overkill) or brake line extensions etc.
I have 16" aluminum wheels that I powdercoated black.
BTW if anyone says powdercoating is a waste must be INSANE. Of all the wheel coatings ive seen, powdercoat is the by far the coolest. Its flat, tough, utilitarian and totally tits!
Downside, it can be expensive.
I was lucky, i work at a facility that powdercoats its own parts. So it only cost me $50 to remove, then replace the tires.

 

i plan to do a very basic setup, having had a long travel 4x4, and an OME setup on the same truck, the ride was better with long travel, but basic ome was just as capable(just not as fast). that said:
3" lift coil on 5100 up front (about 2.25-2.5 with bumper and winch)
Uniball UCA and UCA double shear/coil bucket gusset
TC Spindle gusset
Limit strap up front
tundra brakes and SS lines

Out back just a 3 leaf progressive AAL, new leaf spring bushings, and an adjustable shackle with grease-able bolts
shocks mounted outside the frame rail, likely just a 5125 bilstien about a 10-12" shock, whatever works best.
U bolt flip kit
re work the bump stops to allow for max suspension travel
Box in frame rails
and traction bar similar to bud built ones

Regeared to 4.56 keeping the factory elocker out back and a limited slip up front or just full locker.
Big 3 upgrade and 200amp alternator

Front plate winch bumper 9500 winch
Sliders and full skids
a very basic rear bumper with recovery points
low profile bed rail tool box with enough clearance underneath it to slide in the spare tire.

im able to do all the labor and fabwork myself so thats a huge savings.

i suspect all that will be about 6500 in parts, and can all be installed over the course of a few weekends

 

I'd spent the bulk of the money on a good solid custom frame build, Tacoma frames are crap.

 

The OP is in East Texas. He won't have to worry about frame rust like you guys in Canada or the NE part of the US.