Trailer Brake Controller Issue

I went to wire in my Tekonsha P3 brake controller with the pigtail adapter that plugs directly into the factory plug in for a brake controller and have no power. I know it's grounded properly so I tested the black prong of the plug that goes to the battery and have no power. I checked all the fuses and nothing is obviously wrong. Any ideas?

 

Yeah and hooked up to the trailer

 

I am wiring mine up this weekend. I did notice that the OEM pigtail has an extra wire than the tekonsha pigtail. Not sure if that might be an issue

 

Is it possible your adapter is the wrong one or just pinned wrong.

Then perhaps corroded on your truck side I have run into corrosion I was unable to see.

You just need to follow the circuit till you see where it is open.

I liked the old style controllers that were plumbed into the brake hydraulic line.

 

Just did this 2 days ago. I ordered a

$30 tekonsha 3040 trailer brake controller harness, compatible with select lexus GX460, GX470, LX470, LX570 : toyota 4runner, land cruiser, sequoia, tacoma, tundra

tekonsha 3040 cable. It plugged in to the factory plug under the dash and into the controller. Make sure you have a good ground. I have a 2015 DCSB TRD Sport. This truck has the factory tow package. I think that the SR5 models without the tow don't have these plugs. You list a 2006, so I don't know how different these are. Make sure you have a good ground, that is where I would start. FWIW it is an awesome controller and is absolutely worth the head aches of getting it to work!!!

 

http://www.tekonsha.com/products/br.../TzaIxkVx1cJJgWsByztj|e238YCySFpTAcKKgoc0|l4=

Might have some bad news... Looks like the 3040 cable works on 2007 and newer. There is a hard wire harness too, but I never like cutting and splicing either

 

I don't know for sure on the 2nd gen Tacoma's, but on the 2nd gen Tundra's, there is a relay in the fuse box under the hood, that must be present. On the Tundra the relay is next to the fuel pump relay. I'm sure the 2nd gen Tacoma's have similar fuse box arrangements. To check cost nothing.

Maybe you are missing that relay. FYI, those 2 relays are the same, so for testing purposes, you can swap them out. Of course the truck wont start, but you can see if the trailer lights work. BTW, those relays are a bitch to pull. You are gonna need pliers.

The reason I know this: I deal quite a bit in trailer repairs. If I tow someones trailer with an effed up wiring harness, it kills this relay. I keep a couple on hand now.

 

I had a good ground but I figured it out. I was missing a 30A fuse in the TRLR BRK socket in the fuse panel under the hood. Put one in and everything works now. But is the P3 supposed to have constant power? It's on even when he key is off. I checked and it's only drawing .08 or .008 volts I can't remember but it's not much. The way I have it set up its pretty much permanently in place... Unless I want to tear out the Dash/ steering column/ radio again. But I'm just going to disconnect the pigtail when I'm not using it.

 

I broke the damn clip that lines up the two place pieces and you can kind of see how they don't match perfect but I like where it's mounted.

 

Yes mine powers up if you hit the brake with the key off. No harm to anything. I swap my controller across from a sequoia to the taco. V-8 tow pkg for the camper and boat, taco for the little dump trailer and local close stuff. It will never kill your battery, just a little annoying

 

I'm towing a 7x14 enclosed tandem axle trailer from Alaska to Washington. I towed a VW Jetta up with me several years ago with no trailer brakes so this go around should be a little easier. I'm geared down to 4:88 but I'm still not planning on towing more than 5000 lbs.