Dealer claims spark plugs "stuck", need advice/opinions

Learn to do your own simple maintenance. I always did my own oil changes and the one time I took it in for a free one because I was a little tight on cash that month they didn't tighten the oil filter down all the way. When I got home I noticed oil dripping from under my truck. Don't trust them they probably know as much as you and are back in the bay looking up youtube videos on how to fix your truck.

 

I asked the same question 3 years ago in Chris4x4's write-up thread. Answer:

 

Heh. Chris's answer doesn't account for engine idle wear. Engine is wearing but wheels aren't a-turning. In a perfect world, our trucks would have a run-time clock in addition to the odometer.

 

The weekend lube "tech" probably couldn't find the spark plugs, since there are no plug wires to follow to the plugs. Glad it was a false alarm.

 

If you can, change plugs when engine is still warm. Block will be "expanded", plugs won't and should thread out. If not, use a little PB blaster, let it sit for a day, try again. No luck, do it again. Had to do this before, worked like a charm.

 

WTF. Do you have Bluetooth plugs?

 

Mine does, the dealer also changed my blinker fluid for free because I bought the premium wifi+bluetooth plugs.

 

I have the upgraded premium WiFi+Bluetooth headlights.

 

Always get the flowbehead extender valve cleaned when having the tires rotated.

 

You got bent over. Bent... the... f... over.

 

No, coil packs with no plug wires. Just like you would if you were cool enough to have a 2nd gen.

 

They probably didn't change them - just said get this guy outta here and take his money.

 

I use anti-seize on aluminum heads.

I would go the PB blaster or Kroil as mentioned before. I am not sure I have the balls to use and impact on the spark plugs.

However, I might attempt to pull the plugs on a hot engine. Aluminum expands more than steel. it might give you an edge.

If all goes to crap, you can helicoil.

For the record, I just swapped the plugs and had about 50K between the last interval. They came out easy. ( I had previously used anti-sieze).

 

buddies moms 5.4 on her 99 ford just spit a plug... took allllll of the threads with it. Just be glad you dont have to deal with that.

 

Don't be surprised if next time you go in there to change them they are still stuck. They didn't change a thing

 

This one sounds like a shitshow. Exactly why I don't deal woth the dealer for larger services like that. They are incompetent and will attempt to use firing someone as a scapegoat for not absorbing something that fell under their umbrella of services.

Being that these are aluminum blocks the plugs should actually come out easier when hot due to aluminum vs. Metal thermal expansion properties. In my years of wrenching, all of the plugs I have pulled never had anti seize going out nor in and was never a factor honestly. If plugs were on the difficult side coming out I would spray some sort of lubricating oil, WD40, PB Blaster etc. And I would make sure to slowly turn out a few turns then back in those same amount of turns to work the threads and make sure that I wouldn't pull them with the plug. Never had an issue whatsoever.

Matter of fact, at my 60K supercharger install the spark plugs came right out of my truck no problem, same deal, no anti seize coming out, and I put none going in. I sleep the same way at night after the install. Lol

 

Spark plugs must be changed at specified interval in order to keep emissions warranty intact. Same applies to Toyota. Read your warranty info that came with owners manual.

 

I never understood how is that even possible. Did they made those heads with playdoo ? Spark plugs are not long enough ?

 

I had one of these come into the shop I worked at once. Weirdest thing ever. Makes you wonder if they used inferior metal to build those engines. Which the answer to that is probably a yes. There is simply no reason as to why a plug should ever be spit out like that. Ever.

 

The exposed ends of the plugs tend to "carbon up" and tend to damage the soft threads, leading to later failure. The reason the use of anti-seize is discouraged is that it LOWERS the torque needed for proper fastening, leading to over torqueing and damage. A heavy dose of techron, with a flush of a clean tank of gas might help. But soaking with penetrating oil, repeat, soak, repeat MIGHT also help.

My buddy had a V10 Excursion he got cheap, at 100k plugs had never been changed, then when trying to solve a miss, two holes stripped out, with an eventual diagnosis of a burnt valve. To grind a valve, heads had to come out, to get the heads off, motor had to come out, to get the motor out, body had to come off the frame. Vehicle got junked...