2014 Access cab sub options?

No LOC or DSP or PBS, NBC, CBS or FOX. Just use the standard input wires (not the RCA) and wire the output to the HU. I used the two Metra plug-ins to make the whole thing PnP. I use the higher switched Hz on the amplifier. I find it gives me better low powered volume.

Picture of my testing before putting it all back together.

 

Sub

 

Do you have the part number of the Metra plug ins... Edit found the part number for the harness

 

LOL, so I'm assuming you did go ahead with the CNN converter...jk

Thanks, I just found that PDF you uploaded where you installed the Clarion under the seat. It also looks like you modified the stock speaker adapter and included an after market spacer as well to the components.

I'm SOLD on the Focal 6x9 component system, just heard the 6.5 components and 6x9 coaxials that are in the same price range today in a shop just running off a Kenwood headunit and they sounded amazing. More depth, body, and clarity to the sound than the Hertz, Alpine, Kenwood, & JL's they had running side by side.

Also, speaking to the install guy about the hiss others are experiencing, that is most likely due to the addition of an LOC, period. Because you're using the line-level inputs straight from the headunit to the amp, there's no additional noise being introduced.

Really appreciate you taking the time to create all this - Must be nice to be retired!

 

So just to make sure I understand, your final install has the tweeter out of phase, same as factory?

 

Yes, just connect them the same as I describe. There is no crossover box due to the tweeter having it built in the harness. If you don't use Focal, you may need a crossover.

 

Thank you for confirming. I did the install with Hushmat on the outside body panel and inside panel basically replacing the vapor barrier. Sound is definitely much better, but sounds a little hollow - Has me wondering about that damn out of phase tweeter.

From your posts it sounds like you had them wired in-phase at first... did it sound different? Seems like something is missing to me, could just be midrange in general.

Amp is in the mail BTW. Also considering putting the tweets in the sail panel and mounting 3.5" speakers in the original tweeter location to try and help the mid range issue. Could even power the 3.5"ers with the rear channel output if needed, which would give me adjustable blending.

 

All I can say is with the Focal's, stock head (tweeters set to phasing just as they should be) and no amp, the radio sounds flat.

Yes, at first I had the main speakers out of phase and they sounded "blah", but even with the phase change still flat. Once you put in the amp, the entire system comes to life. You'll HEAR the difference.

 

I put the amp in this week and its definitely more powerful and clear. Used the velcro trick to stick it above the head unit in the dash to ease installation. Also added a piece of foam between the amp and the head unit.

Its sounds way better, don't get me wrong, but it still sounds unnatural to me. Or maybe a little too ambient, like "live" mode or some other kind of enhancement, which probably points to the stock headunit tuning. Maybe it's time to try CleanSweep DSP? I'm resisting pulling out the AudioControl EQS from my last car, cause that just gets ridiculous. Hopefully I can put off anymore changes for a week or two. By then I'll probably love it

 

Great writeup, weendoggy! I really appreciate how detailed you were with the pictures and wiring directions. I also read your Clarion amp writeup and it is equally helpful. I just bought my new truck and already I want to get better sound in it. It sounds muddy to my ears. I like 6x9 components with a mini-amp because I don't plan to fit a sub.

What did you use for mounting brackets? Crutchfield says the ISS 690 doesn't fit, probably because the mounting depth is 3 5/16". I read the door only has 3 1/4" of depth with the 1" bracket that I can find for sale.

 

The shop I bought my speakers from tossed in two spacers. However, you can either get some from Mr. Marv (I think others have got them there) or, you can simply cut your old speakers out and use the trim for your spacing. Either way, they worked in my '14. Also, make your own tweeter plate from some aluminum, fiberboard, plastic etc. That part is easy and I glued my tweeters in the hole just to insure a good fit. Drill your hole a little on the snug side to make it a tight squeeze. (the rest of you, get your minds out of the gutter).

 

I just ordered the ISS 690 from Crutchfield last month (ignoring their warning) and not only did they send me the correct 6x9 adapters, but also the factory wire harness connectors for free! I believe they all showed up in my cart at checkout. Fit my 2015 AC with no clearance issues, and I made some tweeter mounts out of MDF.

Definitely take the time to Hushmat the hell out of the doors like The Man above. Once you get the amp in you will be very glad you did. I used this RattleTrap stuff which was enough for the outer and inner metal of the doors front and rear access cab.

 

subd

 

Mind if I pose a question to the two of you. Where/how is the rear headliner speaker wiring routed in my 2015 Access cab. I'm interested in connecting a powered sub woofer in the back to hopefully fill in some of the missing thump.

 

drivers side A-pillar you will find the connector to the headliner "speakers"

 

Thanks Weendoggy for the awesome write up on the amp installation. I just purchased JBL GTO 6x9s for the front and the same in 6 1/2 for the rear for my double cab. I'm also going to install the amp and I had no clue there would be all the needed harnesses through metra to eliminate hacking the stock wire harness up.

 

Weendoggy, In your pdf and in the previous post you talk about modifying the

$9 Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker

Metra 70-1761 because it doesn't have the extra orange/black wire. And then cutting the "looped" blue wire off the 10-pin female 70-1761 connector to put in the 6-pin connector. Can you tell me which pin on the 6-pin connector it goes in? And just to confirm the orange wire from the

$13 71-1761 87 - 94 Toyota Vehicle Harness

71-1761 6-pin connector connects to the blue wire installed in the 70-1761 6-pin connector?

 

OK everyone. Today I pulled my radio out just to see what I did. Yep, it still worked so I put it back. Oooppps, forgot to say what I did.

I've redone my simple schematic to include the lights to the radio. Remember, this is just a simple diagram, but does explain what has to be done. I also did another write up (attached) to show what I did and hopefully explain some of the problems I ran into using the Metra plugs. Basically, the Toyota Radio Wire Harnesses diagram that is on this site is just a basic tool, because your wires and the positions that are used aren't necessarily correct. In fact, they weren't for my installation and probably a few others that have PM'd or email'd me. Not to worry though, I think this will help.

I took a couple of pictures to help explain details. Hope these will do the trick. I've shortened this up a bit from my .pdf, but it'll get you started.

First is the chart showing what is and isn't used. See my note in blue. You don't need the Power Antenna H & I so you can remove that from the plug. You can take it and use it in O which you WILL need to power the rear speakers. Because this wire is "looped" from H/I. You just cut one loop off. Now you have the pigtail you need for the rear speakers in the plug-in.



Second picture is how mine is wired in my truck. This shows the Front and Rear plug-ins with the REAR showing the green/white (chassis) wire and the blue (you just installed this) wire in the adjoining plugs.




Third is the harness explained in the orange/blue connection and the power plug at the radio explaining what IS used to power the unit and lights. On the MAIN power/front speaker plug, C is the KEY ON 12v lead; D is the 12v BAT lead and J is the LIGHTS. You can see the orange wire that is connected to the blue wire to the rear plug and also the orange pigtail lead from the REAR plug-in to the radio.

NOTE: I was able to refresh (finally) the photo that is correct with text above. I will monitor this over the next few days and make sure it's stays here. The post on pg. 3 will stay which also represents the correct wiring.





I have this available as a .pdf below for you to d/l and use as a tool. Bottom line is just make sure of your connections, take your time, double check and do a test run before buttoning it all up. Good luck to all.

Here's the corrected schematic with Tacoma spelled right. What dumb a$$ I am.

 

Thanks for clarifying and thanks for documenting all this.

 

Uhm. One more question. Isn't the yellow wire the direct connect to the battery and the red to the 12 v switched/accessories? Or no?