Wyoming B.S. Thread

Ha...uh..what year?

either way. No such thing as "shoving 35s under it".

thats not cheap..and not easy. 2nd gens are a bit easier. Still have to work at it though. Gage has 35s on his 2nd gen and i have 35s on my 1st gen. His by comparison was much easier then what i had to do.

Also. You'll have to regear the diffs...which equals...more money.

If you're on a budget, stick to 33s man.

 

It's an 08, and yeah, 35s are expensive to tuck, and require a lot of work. But in the end it will be worth it, and 35s is the big picture, not the one that happens first. Definitely going to sit on 33s for awhile. Plus I wanna put an arb up front anyways, so might as well regear when the clamshell is apart.

 

Gotcha!

Something to work towards then. My dad has 34s and they are a great...compromise i guess. Look great and work great but not as much cutting at all compared to real 35s.

gage can offer his insight to that as well. He has 4.88 diffs on a single cab with 35s known as..Baby Taco

 

4.88s I think would be a little to low, I drive about 1200 miles a month, so wanna keep some of the street manners, but all that remains to be seen, plans, and projects change

 

For 35s either 4.56 or 4.88 will be fine. If you want better road manners, 4.56. Better on the trail, 4.88. My dad has 4.56 in his 08 with the 34s and its great. Auto tranny.

 

Auto aswell here, I had a Cummins in a manual, and well, I did alot to that truck to make it fun to drive, except in road construction, and heavy traffic. Never even thought about those conditions until I had to drive the somewhat finished product through them. My left leg got pretty strong tho

 

Work has been killin me for time. And parts, waiting on parts all the time..And i basicly don't have this weekend to do much and i dont have next week mostly as i have to go up to the mountains and camp there all week to do spraying in Krandal area(back side of chief Joseph and bearthooth hwys).

More worried about Igor getting ready for another year then Frank. Most the stuff on Frank doesn't HAVE to get done..other then the obvious job of finishing the damn diff.

otherwise just need to paint the rack and call it good if i have too.

Igor needs the rear springs put on and shocks. Alignment, cleaned inside and out, and oil change and air filter.



soooooo....i have like....9 days.



Yea Blitzpro does some cool stuff with the switches!

Hoping the bed liner is under 300 for the small bed. Otherwise..probably just put the plastic one back in.

 

Ill take a manual any day still over an auto my rig Frankenstein in a manual. Love it.

 

They are cool, I had a 76 fj manual of course, I took through moab a couple times , and loved it. Minus no power steering. That part sucked.

 

Yea that would suck!

Time is my issue. I'd just raptor line it if I have another open weekend. I don't though.

I use the dupilcolor rattle can liner on all my armor. Love that shit. Best stuff from a spray can ever

 

Was debating what to put on my armor once I get it. Does the duplicolor Fade very bad with time? Also contemplating doing my stock bumpers and grill with it in the mean time, anyone have firsthand experience with this?

 

@Blackdawg On your eastwood welder do you get shocked by the housing screws and hook on the gun?

 

Uh...no..haha never had that happen

 

Mine Hilda up great. Fades a fad but been great otherwise

 

Do you use there bed liner or bed armor? Somewhat concerned because both get panned pretty hard in Amazon reviews.

 

Pretty sure this is the one Monte is referring to. It is the one I used on my FrankenFab rear bumper. Minimal fading if any.

$76 Dupli-Color (TR250-6 PK Black Truck Bed Coating - 16.5 oz. Aerosol, (Case of 6)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3V1WY8

English much?

 

Yeah that's one of their products I was looking at, it gets anywhere from 1 star to 5 star, tough to draw any conclusions since one doesn't know what kind of frittatas are doing the reviewing. Did you use any kind of primer? Self etching is what I was thinking.

 

That's what i thought. I called them and they are going to ship me a new welder. And issue a call tag for the old one.

 

Yes, I always use a good self-etching primer. No other prep really. All the surfaces had been freshly hit with the grinder tho.

It does take a while to cure. It was still a bit soft and vulnerable after 24 hours but I put a lot of coats on. Once it cures, almost impossible to damage.

 

Yea that's the stuff I use. Works awesome. Its kinda rubbery so it doesn't flake off from rocks. Just scratches off from useage. But then you just reapply haha


Sorry...was on my phone and in a rush lol

Nice! See told ya they were good about that stuff