Long Travel BS Thread

Gotcha, I was under the impression that the reference was to left right roll center not fore-aft. Carry on.

 

Totally easy to confuse!

 

Did you actually read what I wrote ? I said TBD to Landon's questions and proceeded to provide an explanation as to why the rear end has not reached that point yet. A few folks saw the bed cage cage start last week and may have been under the impression that the whole rear end had started already.

 

No I didn't say he was building a front kit, I have a LT kit and he is doing all of the items I mentioned to support the LT kit and a couple of repair items as well.

 

Not sure if sarcasm... Do you guys do full roll axis calcs when you build? Rear is generally higher than the front roll center.

 

You can't pre plan the rear at all when the customer ( me ) has not actually decided what he wants yet. The fact that the final link length has not been determined yet and the data Landon was asking about is not available yet is entirely my fault not Jeff's. I started out wanting the shortest links I could get because I was thinking purely of ground clearance and had not yet learned much about the mechanics of the whole set up. After playing with one of link calculators for hours and reading as much as I could find I understand the basics far better now and felt comfortable committing to longer links. Jeff has been extremely patient and spent a lot of time teaching me a great deal about it and I just gave the final idea a thumbs up Saturday morning. We have spent the entire weekend tearing the truck down and working on the front end at the same time so in the less than 48 hours since I gave the links a thumbs up he has had zero time to do any pre planning. The two hours of planning he was going to do early this morning he spent helping me with seized axle nuts that had to be ground down and chiseled off.

 

anyone use a slider box type setup on their spring under?

 

Yep.

Did not notch my frame. Fox 16'' double bypasses riding pretty darn close to it. Pretty sure I have 1.75" wheel spacers in the back (might be 1.5"), and I rub the bypass tube when I fully flex. Really only happens on extreme articulation; one side drooped all the way out and the other stuffed. It clears just fine on everything else.

 

Made some motor mounts for the Jordini build yesterday. Thinking about getting a small batch laser cut and CNC bent if anybody is interested in a set.

 

Those look an awful lot like direct copies of @Supermoto's and @Bonzen's that I have sitting on my shelf....

 

Are 2.0 3" travel Fox bumps good for DMZ SUA? Probably shorten to 2", but wondering if I really need 2.5s?

 

Why not go with 2" shortys if your gonna limit them anyways. I sold my 3" because they were way taller than I liked

 

Because Ive got dibs on a new pair of Fox 2.0 3" travel bumps that i just cant pass up

 

Are you going to be up in NorCal much longer? Not familiar with the terrain up there but couldn't imagine you would use everything you're planning on. 2.0's are way more than adequate.

 

Thats what i figured, not a whole lot of desert around here, and im not going to be jumping anything all that often. Reno is a couple hours away though. Ill go ahead and snag the 2.0s and if i feel like theu arent up to snuff i can always throw some 2.5s in

 

I just sold a brand new pair of fox 3" bumps for $250. It took a while to sell them, even at that price. The short kings are packaged much better for our trucks. In the long run saving a few hundred dollars really isn't much in the grand scheme of things

 

$200 for new 2.0 Fox 3" travel is pretty hard to beat...

 

Brand new kings are only like $200 more. The fabrication is the expensive part is, I'd buy exactly what you want/need the first time. The finished product will turn out far better in the long run. You know what they say "Buy once, cry once. But if money is a factor the 3" foxes won't let you down

 

Brand new kings are like $500+, Im ok with Foxes for my bumps. Everything else is King