Drum brakes, simple or get 'em done professionally?

I've got a brake shudder at 116k kms, so new brakes are in order. I've never had a problem with the stock brakes, so I'm going OEM for the fronts. I can do disc's, but the last time I did drums was in high school, more years ago than I care to admit. I'll most likely go OEM for the rears as well, but want to know, if I take it slow, can anyone do it? My Father-in-law left me his tools when he died, and I have the spring wrenches, spoons, and all the other necessary tools, but not having done them for so many years, I'm nervous about it. Man up, and do it myself, or pay someone if there's any doubt?

 

Take it slow and you can do it yourself. Biggest PITA for me and drums is getting the drum off. After that, on disassembly, I put a rag on the floor and as each part comes off, I set it on the rag just like it comes off the drum back. Spring on upper left, goes on the rag in upper left, retainer on lower center, goes on lower center, etc. Also, just do one side at a time, and you have the other side as a template and/or snap a couple pics.

 

There are 2 threaded holes on each drum. Supposed to buy little bolts that thread into those holes until they push the drum free of rust. Works like a charm but I don't know the size of the bolts. Also, "PB Blaster" kicks ass on rust! Spray some into all of the drum holes and let sit.

 

It's a good thing to learn.

 

There are plenty of tutorial videos on the internet about how to change drum brakes. Not necessarily for the tacoma, but they're all basically the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FYRwfKNHxw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCpCkun2qxA

Watch how these guys do it and you can determine if you're up to the task. You might even find that when you get the drums off the shoes are still good and nothing is leaking you don't need to touch em. They take a while to wear out if you don't carry a lot of weight in the back or tow much. Although at 100k and 10 years it may be time.

 

Do em yourself and paint em

PS a shudder is usually the front brake pads/roters. Don't replace the rear until you hear sqeaking.

 

Pull your drums every 30k miles, inspect, anti-seize and reinstall...

 

Bolt size is M8-1.25 at least 30mm long. Common size on Toyotas. On my 4x4, I can 'borrow' the bolts that hold the stock front skid plate.

 

just wack the drums with a hammer, they should move...

 

A hammer does work after a several good whacks if the truck isn't too old or has way too much rust...otherwise, it takes about 100 whacks which = more time, more ringing of the ears and more chance of damaging your wheel studs and/or your own body. Bolts = no drama

 

Thanks guys. I'll look into maybe just adjusting them first. I'll pull them and take a look. I don't do any towing, and hardly carry anything heavy in the bed, unless I'm doing a dump run. I'll take a look. I did watch the "ERICTHECARGUY" vid, and he was really helpful in reminding me of some of the smaller steps. He also showed me that I have all the tools necessary, so it shouldn't be that bad. But I'll look into adjusting them first. That may be all they need.

 

I sold my 94 toy pickup, 5 lug, 4 banger, 5 speed, 2 wheel drive with the original brakes still on the back. I did change ONE wheel cylinder since the bleeder snapped at about 200k when I tried to bleed the brakes.

 

Thanks for the info hetkind. There may still be meat on the shoes then, but I have to adjust. I've just noticed that my parking brake goes down farther and farther all the time, so maybe an adjustment is all I need.

 

You do know to back the brake adjuster off to remove the drum

Takes two tools one to hold the lock off the adjuster the other to turn the adjuster.

Makes removing Drums much easier.

Once the Drum is off I turn the adjuster all the way in makes fighting with the spring much easier

Lots of tricks one picks up over the years .

Use high temperature brake grease to lightly grease the contact points on the shoes

Clean the adjusters and relube

Might also be a good time to replace the e-brake linkage in the drum.

I always put on new Drums and new Hardware.

 

How hard is it to replace the e-brake linkage?

Any and all info is appreciated on these drum brakes. I need to adjust them so I'm going to throw a set of pads on them while I have it apart.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZclddLcOYYA

 

So why is it so important to replace all the hardware? It's just linkage hardware...where's the wear and tear in all that? What's the specific benefit?

Does Toyota sell hardware "kits"? I won't bother to piece all that crap together with multiple visits to autozone.

 

The only drum-brake wear items are the shoes, u-clip, cylinder and drums. After 30 years of doing my own work, I've never needed to replace any of the other hardware. Just don't lose any of it during the job. Only source for that stuff is the dealer or wreckers. New shoes always come with a new u-clip for the leading shoe.

 

It all depends just where you live.

Here in the great rust belt things tend to get very rusty and most of these vehicles I work on have been so very neglected.

Hardware the fact Brakes do generate heat after all the thermal cycling metal tends to fatigue.

The real reason is because no matter how careful I am something manages to go flying never to be seen again.

Also working on customers vehicles new hardware is a fact of life.

I would just as soon have the parts on hand because with the economy so bad the Auto Parts stores are no longer open 24/7 around here like they were.

E-Brake Hardware.

Just a matter of unhooking the old and putting on the new.

If it needs it which one does not know till things are apart.

 

take a few pic first then make it work...