Upgrading sound system - speaker and stereo questions

so is this the kit you bought: http://www.raamaudio.com/raammat-bx...riod-please-click-to-see-product-description/

or did you buy it by the yard like this? http://www.raamaudio.com/ensolite-i...ended-absolutely-the-best-foam-on-the-market/

if you bought by the yard, how much did you get and if you bough the small kit, did you run short or have any extra left over after dong the doors and back wall?

also, did you pull the rear speakers and insulate the cab corners behind them too? I didnt understand what you meant by "strategic areas of the rear quarter panels" and didn't see a clear enough picture of the access to it to tell where you put mat

 

adding a sub (doesnt have to be massive) allows you to set a high pass filter on your speakers so they can focus on the mids/highs and overall sound alot better. http://www.audiosavings.com/car-aud...er-seat-slim-amplified-car-subwoofer-wire-kit

These are the speakers im running in my truck. I bought them not expecting much but their just as good as the much more expensive alpine speakers in my car. http://www.audiosavings.com/car-aud...mponent-car-speakers-1280w-peak-320-watts-rms

 

No. That is just the raammat. The kit I linked on page 1 has the raammat and ensolite in it.

I have extra of both still lying around.

Yes.

I put raammat on the rear 1/4 panel in the areas where it resonated the most. If you bang the side of your fist on the sheet metal you'll get a quick understanding of where you need to put the mat, and where you don't. Truthfully, with the amount leftover I could have covered the entire thing if I wanted, but chose to save the raammat.

The purpose of the raammat is to give structure to sheet metal that is otherwise flimsy and resonant. When you give structure to it, the sheet metal no longer resonates, and therefore cuts down the cab noise tremendously. (ergo no need to do the floor because it is incredibly solid as is).

The purpose of ensolite is to cut down on the higher frequency vibrations. It is very important to only put a 6x6" or 8x8" piece of ensolite directly behind the speakers. Do not use more. You will negatively affect the sound quality by completely deadening more than the back wave.

 

I sound deadened mine and it was the best decision ever. I did new pioneer speakers and the deadening for about 200 but it still has the stock head unit.

 

ok so the raammat is just for road noise and the ensolite is put behind the speakers just to better focus the sound inward? is that right?

if it is then what about using these speaker baffles behind the speakers instead: http://www.ebay.com/itm/XTC-6x8-Aco...H_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a9f8560b&vxp=mtr

 

Really crappy picture, sorry.

You can see the raammat (silver shiny material) in the picture. On the right side of the photo you can see where I also placed it around the seat belt retractor, door jamb, etc. When I had the entire interior of my truck torn apart I would open and shut the doors to see what was rattling/resonating. That's when I strategically placed the raammat. My doors now shut with a beautiful dull "thud" like a luxury car

Really no need to deaden around the rear window because of how solid the sheet metal is to support it.

To the left you can see my rear wall. I covered the entire thing in raammat and ensolite. HUGE difference now.


Also - do not be fooled by that big piece of ensolite (dark gray material) covering the rear speaker hole. At the time I removed the factory rear speakers (because they suck) and did not replace them with aftermarket ones. So I covered the entire hole with raammat and ensolite to cut down on the road noise that would have otherwise come through the empty void. Prior to covering the entire speaker hole I did put as much raammat between the outer and inner sheet metal behind the speaker hole/bracket. Then applied an 8x8" piece of ensolite behind where the new/eventual speakers would be placed (planning for the future/expansion). I've since added rear speakers and merely cut the material away from the hole and mounting points.

 

Ensolite does more than just that. It cuts down the higher frequency noises in the cab (which is a lot of what you hear as well).

Think of it this way.... bang the middle of your door, on the outside, with the side of your fist. It makes a loud and low noise like a bass drum. The raammat will deaden that noise entirely. Now think of driving on the highway in your cab. The higher frequency road noise is what the ensolite will deaden.

In conjunction, the raammat and ensolite will quiet your cab tremendously. Quieting your cab will be beneficial for you for several reasons:

1. It will make your stereo components sound better.
2. You won't hear those damn young pissants playing their ugly music
3. With the windows rolled up, your cab is going to be so much quieter that you can actually easily have a conversation with someone next to you when you're driving 65 mph on the highway

 

I added those to my rear speakers, though you have to cut holes in them or you will get no base response at all. I put about 1.5 hole in the bottom of each baffle. I think they helped reduce noise/echo a lot, They were a 3itch to get in though since its hard to line up the screws through them and into the existing holes to attach the speaker. I did this all through the hole left when I cut the grill out of the interior panel. I did not removed the panel. I'm sure this made it more difficult.

 

ok so where im getting confused is the raammat is peel and stick but the ensulite isn't so you need to spray adhesive it on. that seams like an unnecessary PITA when they could and should have made it peel and stick too don't you think?

so where im getting lost is if you need both, why weren't both made as one thicker peel and stick mat?

where im also lost is are these mats different? im assuming the raammat is a flat closed cell foam mat sheet where the insulite is (I assume) more like an open cell sponge foam stuff correct?

 

The ensolite is peel and stick too.

 

but the site says you have to glue it on ???????????? I gotta go look again

ok, im assuming the glue on version is the only one you can buy separately and you cant buy the ensulite peel and stick version separately by itself http://www.raamaudio.com/ensolite-i...sion-for-most-installs-as-far-easier-to-work/

I was thinking I would save money by just buying the ensulite and skip using the raammat stuff

 

Here is the link to the kit you want: http://www.raamaudio.com/package-1-...s-ofensolite-iuo-peel-and-stick-41-625-sq-ft/

Both peel and stick.

You will be gravely disappointed if you don't apply raammat.

Here is the quick blurb from Rick's site:

 

Im going to need to make a mastrer thread for all the crap im doing with mine right now. Im using the GT Mat from Amazon, and thats the cheapest option i have found for doing the entire cab. I have found these Raamaudio products people are talking about very overpriced for what you are getting. It would cost 2 to 3 times as much to soundmat your entire truck with those products. Youll need about 75sqft, so the cheapest would be to buy the 100sqft kit for around $130. I posted pics in the 'What did you do today' thread.

GTMAT 100 sqft Automotive Sound Deadening 50mil PRO
http://amzn.com/B008KMOA60

Im also redoing the vapor barriers with the stuff and some heavy duty vinyl. Aside from that im using some high quality components form Pioneer and Alpine. Thats where the most difference is going to be, you can spend $400 for some Focal or DLS kits if you so fancy. My speakers are going to cost me around $100 all together, $50 for the double din head (i may upgrade that), though what is going to get you is all the little shit, the terminals, connections, gaffers tape, zip ties, it all adds up quickly. I bought a Portosal Superpro125 torch/soldering iron for this cause my dinky electric one wasnt cutting it.

I figure bare bones is going to cost you around $400 minimum, mine will probably end up closer to $700. Don't do what i did and get a installation kit. I ended up ripping out all that clad aluminum wiring after i realized how shitty it was. Im putting down really copper lines, and i bought my 4 guage power cable from Lowes, along with the heavy duty ring terminals.

Let me know if you need any of those weird little 2.8 and 4.8mm spade terminals. I only needed 4 out of the pack of 100 i bought.

 

I just went with 4 NVX VSP68
when they were on sale from http://www.sonicelectronix.com/search?keyword=NVX+VSP68
and bought i used pioneer double din headunit no amps no subs and i am pleased with the sound quality and it gets plenty loud..
or me ears are messed up from my ol 1980 toyota 4x4 pickup when i was young had 4 6x9 and 2 10's with amps in a single cab

 

I would avoid speaker baffles, you are limiting the air space sound waves can travel with that. Youre going to be cutting down on the depth of what your speakers can put out. Only reason i would see to use those are in wet environments.

Sound mat the entire inside of the door, then seal the holes on the side (not at the bottom, you need those for drainage).

 

This is my audio set up:

JVC KD-X50BT Digital Media Head Unit (bought it on sale for $89.99)
Sound Ordnance 75 x 2 amp - powers the front speakers only (bought it on sale for $49.99)
Polk Audio db651 6 1/2 two-way (front and rear) (bought the fronts for $79.99 and rears for $89.99)

$190 Sound Ordnance B-8PTD 8" Powered Subwoofer

Sound Ordnance B-8PTD 8" under seat powered subwoofer. (bought it on sale for $149.99)
Sound deadened rear wall, rear quarter walls and both door panels with BXT II and Ensolite (raamaudio.com) (spent $120)

All audio gear came from Crutchfield so it included all the harnesses, etc to install.

Total spend = $580

Truck is super quiet and the sound is very acceptable for my ears. Plus the HU interface is awesome for my needs:

1. iPod integration
2. Hands free phone calls

 

thanks guys, this is just super great advice from everyone

 

Like that? I went over that grey matting already in the whole, and i turned the foam block on the bottom 90deg so it fills the bottom area.

The trick is, measure and cut one piece foe the entire width. Peel back on about 1 cm on the top edge of the matting, then carefully place and press in this exposed strip at the top of the matting. Then peel back and down the rest of the plastic while rolling with the roller tool. Youll see what i mean when you get in there.

 

I removed those foam baffles. Utterly useless.

And I did not put any deadener on the floor. Not effective enough for the money.

 

My vote is still for the Mad Max speakers.