Critique my $1000 light system please

Labor is DIY, this I can do, I am just buying parts.

Situation, I take call for Hospice in moose country, during the Alaska winter. When somebody's grandpa is hurting I order some meds over the phone, and then I have to get there.

I am not going off road rock crawling, but I am headed out two lane roads in moose country, in the dark on roads coated with hardpack snow.

Actual speed limit has nothing to do with the po-po but everything to do with tires and lights that keep my truck from getting wrinkled.

My plan is a N-fab light bar that will take 4 nine inch lights ($200 with shipping to AK),

one pair of 7" LightForce halogens at 100W each on the high beams, ($350 with wiring harness, delivered)

and one 17" Xvision wide LED bar connected to the low beam switch ($550 delivered)

I am at about $1100 already, without putting a big fused tap on my battery yet.

I am going to have to give half a pork shoulder to my welder (I run a pretty fair pit, so that's OK), so i can mount the 17" LED to the underside of the N-fab bar, leaving room for another pair of 7" Lightforce's up top if I end up needing them. I do have the 130a alternator that comes with the 2015 tow package, so I should have enough current.

Does this seem reasonable to y'all in deer country?

I know there are less expensive products with similar performance ratings, but I am pretty much limited to Lightforce, Rigid and X vision for dependable function in my cold temperatures.

FWIW in my worst possible conditions (mixed hard pack, black ice and bare pavement on the roadway with multiple moose) my fastest comfortable speed with factory lighting is about 45mph. I'd like to get that up to about 60-65mph, and do that only rarely with loud rock and roll accompanied by high pucker factor.

Thanks

 

Lightforce Genesis......... Beasts

 

The whole Lightforce line has an enviable reputation up here. One problem with the LEDs at 40 below is it takes a while for the ice to melt off the lenses. Halogens will burn that accumulated hard water right off.

I guess my main concern is when an oncoming vehicle is getting close I am going to have to stop lighting up the left ditch long enough for the oncoming vehicle to get by me. Which means I'll need to slow down to about 35mph on the factory lows with the factory fogs...

I'll maybe wire up the wide LED to light on its own switch regardless of headlight condition and play with it some.

I could save a few bones by skipping the LED bar and starting with 4 of 7" lightforces instead, two as floods and two as pencils, all connected to the high beam switch. That would put me back under budget too.

This is where I am stuck.

Thanks Justus, maybe I'll just get some perforated angle iron welded to the bottom of the N-fab bar in case I add a LED bar later and start with 2 pair of light forces.

 

Genesis will throw brightly a good quarter mile

 

Maybe a pair of sevens, a pair of nines and a Star Trek emblem somewhere curvy? ;-)

 

And ur right, the halogen heat from them will melt ice in a heartbeat...... U can feel the heat 5 feet away

 

HIDs don't do well up here no matter who makes them, I had to google LF genesis to see what you meant.

 

OK, new current plan thanks to Justus thinking out loud with me is a pair of LF 7s, a pair of LF 9s with a perfed angle iron on the bottom of the N-fab in case I need to add a LED bar later, and now I gotta finda chromish Star Trek emblem to go with the 7s of 9s.

I'll just run all four on the high beam switch and deal with oncoming traffic like a responsible grownup.

I do not suggest googling for images related to "7 of 9" on your work computer or while your wife is present.

 

Its a Tacoma In The Snow thing.

 

Genesis come in both...... I had the halogens, i hate hid

 

I had a relay in between the highbeam and power as a trigger........ Forces came on ONLY when both my toggle switch was selected, and highbeam on the stalk was selected..... Instant off in case of traffic.

 

Yup, thats what I am thinking. I'll use a normally cold line that goes hot when the high beams come on to trigger the solenoid for the added lights so when I use the stalk to operate the high/low switch the added lights will come on only when they are both switched on by a standalone switch and the stalk is in the high beam position.

That way, as you said, when I use the stalk to switch to low beams all the added lights will go out.