Waterproof Fuse and Relay Boxes - RFRM (10 relay) & RTMR (5 Relay) no Blue Sea/ SPOD

I wonder if this could be my problem as well. Is there a difference between the green and green/white wires coming from the rheostat and the same color wires from, say, the VSC switch? On second gen I mean. I had assumed they were all the same, i checked the green wire at a few different dash plugs with the headlights on and the green wire was hot at the rheostat and all dash plugs with headlights (and parking lights) on.

 

I was going to check continuity between the green/white wire at the rheostat and at the other dash plugs, just to confirm that they are indeed all connected. I verified the solid green (hot) like in my post above. Had to go get a new light bulb for my continuity tester, will test tomorrow.

 

You need to use the wires just as Skygear has posted for 2nd Gens. No need to get confused looking at what the 1st gen guys are doing. The wiring diagrams will show you that all the dash plugs (I assume you mean the empty ones) are all connected if the wire colors match. I hope you know not to test continuity on a live/hot circuit.

 

^^^yeah I was gunna mention that the leg work for you 2nd genners has already been done and layed out pretty good, most of which is some where here mid thread.


Be nice if we could separate the info in this thread. Its so interwoven I could see it being a little confusing with all the jumping back n forth between 1st n 2nd gen wiring. Stuff is confusing enough without having to sort through the info.

 

Go ahead and make a thread in the 1st gen section with what you learned. Drop the diagram and pictures in there too!

 

Yes I'm aware of the difference in 2nd gen, I've wired everything as skygear said and follwed the otrattw diagram and it still does not work. That's why I'm leaning toward faulty switches. I ordered new ones, lower independent. Hope to get them by next weekend.

 

What gauge wire are y'all running to your battery, and ground? Where are you getting it from?

Also what size bolts are used to mount them to the brackets? Found it #10-32x1/2

 

Your first question, what are you asking exactly?? Sky's boxes obviously have those leads already. If you dont have skys box(i dont either yet) ive got power to my ARB switches (not illumination power) via add a fuse from the in cabin fuse box.

 

The main power wire from the box to the battery, and the box to ground. I settled on 4awg. I saw some posts in here about it.

 

I take it you aren't using Sky's box then. You make your own or did ya get a blue sea or something?? Either way a 4 gauge wire would for sure be enough. I've got all my wire off eBay or Amazon. Easy to find and fairly cheap compared to finding it in town somewhere.

 

I got all the parts and made one. Just placed the order from eBay for the last of my wire.

 

Excellent!! Yeah eBay is the way to go on getting wire for cheap! 6 gauge would be sufficient too! I bet even 8ga would be fine as well. I'd personally go with 4 or 6 myself, especially if you made a RFRM.... Did you make an rtmr or a big boy rfrm??

 

Yea. I was looking at ampacity(Yea that's a word) tables and different ones say different things for the length I need. The littler one. The big boy would look pitiful with the amount of accessories I have.

 

Where did you order the main components from for your RTMR? They look great but I suspect the lead time might be far more than I would like to wait for having one built.

 

Here's a link to deciding what gauge is required - keep in mind DC circuits are different than AC: http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/WireSizeCalc.html
Most connecting wires from the Bussman to the battery will be like only 1-2 feet long. The one I bought on ebay came with 10 gauge positive connection wire attached. for only 1 foot long, per the worksheet in the link, this is more than adequate. But bigger is always safer in this regard, so a 4 or 6 gauge or even an 8 will give you plenty of safety margin. The 5 relay, 10 fuse small box is only rated for like 80 amps itself. I plugged in values of 100 amps and 1 foot long when I was deciding.

 

So I got my new switches today and I'm happy to report everything is now working as intended! Thanks to all for any tips and advice.

 

@skygear I emailed you a few weeks ago but you said you weren't taking orders at the time. Should I send it again?

 

Send it now

 

Sent.

 

Confirmation, I just used a test light and put the positive probe end into the contact with the G-R wire and put a nail in the alligator clip (ground end of the test light) and stuck the nail in the W-G contact.

That harness/clip is definitely for a circuit that only comes on with the parking/headlights and dims with the dimmer knob. HUZZAH!!!!

Now do I just cut the G-R and W-G wires out of the clip and solder them to the positive and negative leads coming out of @skygear switchbacks? Or do I just get some sort of end connectors for the positive and negative wires out of the switchbacks and just insert them into the clip?

I'm a little sketched out because there is a third, W-B, wire in that clip/harness... and I have no idea wtf this thing is for.