Long Travel BS Thread

Short bodied kings are only an 1" shorter. Same shock with just the cap over. The Dimensions are 27.37 ext and 17.37 collapsed. The only shock that works without a pocketed lower is swayaway with modifying their top cap to fit and notching the coil bucket for the resi. I'm working with fox right now to try and find or make a shock that will work with stock coil bucket. But even with stock coil bucket the inner sheetmetal limits travel so might as well cut it all out and make hoops or an engine cage.

And might as well run a shock hoop and crossbar for longer shocks because motion ratio and spring length with help make the front end handle better.

 

Thank you

 

Have a photo request please : 2nd gen 4X4 w/ a +2 kit running King 8's. I need to see what lower rod end and /or raised coil seat combo is needed to clear the CV boots and axle etc

 

Is that a regular rod end with just a raised coil seat or is it a +1" taller rod end and raised coil seat too ?

 

It's a raised rod end and coil seat. It's what I needed with a 3.5 kit using stock spindle.

 

What kit do u have

 

I have the Solo +2 kit w/ OE spindles, they did not seem to be 100% sure if a raised coil seat only was needed for a 4X4 or +1" rod end and raised coil seat both ? Hoping King will know definitively ?

 

Pretty sure you need extended rods definitely seats. I have solo's race kit and all I need are the seats but I think it's cause of the spindle. Dsm will know fo sho

 

Someone a few weeks ago or a month or so ago posted a picture of a gen 1 tacoma rack that was split in half. Does anyone have that picture again? I wanted to show it to a friend I was talking with...

Thanks

 

Links coming together for the dcsb build. Will be off to powdercoat tomorrow or Thursday.

 

Those look good. They are just going to run coilivers?

 

Yes. No room for a bypass with current axle/wheel configuration.

 

So can someone give me some advice on frame horns vs tubing style horns on a front bumper. I understand the frames are thin and you want the bumper to fail before the frame but kinda thought using mild steel would act as a crumple zone. Still not sure on the dom vs mild but truck is finally getting the kit installed next week and trying to better understand the merits of each.
Thanks!

 

Yeah that's tough with a dcsb. I'm sure it will perform great!

 

brent, if you are bolting your bumper to the stock bumper mounts it will still retain the factory crumple zone built into your frame. As far as hrew vs dom, everyone has their own opinion. I personally prefer dom, but I re rally don't worry about if I crash. I figure it'll either be serious enough I'd be screwed with either type of tubing or it'll be minor enough it really won't matter. I prefer to build things out of dom, but that's just because I feel it's a superior material and not a whole lot more expensive

 

As some of you know, I'm a "displaced" prerunner. I'm active duty and have spent the last five years Missouri, which has zero prerunning. Absolutely no place to use my LT suspension for high speed.

I'm in Alaska now and just found five miles of whoops, bumps, and jumps. I'm happier than a 12 year old who just saw his first Playboy magazine!

Rear end was dialed in great, front end needs a rebuild but still did well.

 

Time for rock sliders. My stupid co worker decided to ding my door.

@TRACperformance can you ship a set APO? lol

 

Anyone in here at Eglin AFB? Saw a black 4x4 double cab with baja front bumper with lights, built right LCAs, king coilovers and bypass with king rear shocks and SUA, Glassworks I believe, awesome lookin tire holder in the bed and a folding light rack with 4 lights, also had north Dakota plates with a tw sticker on the back window. Gotta say...if you are in here lol, you got one badass truck, I left a note but not sure if you got it. Parked at the white sands inns