Any write ups on replacing carrier bearing?

I need to do mine again, I think its going to be a regular thing. So I want to do it myself this time. I didnt see much here but did find a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JurluoSxJHI&list=PLGSpVHbtdmVtJO62seY93j9qMDOQSc_zp&index=23

Does this look right for a second gen?

 

Yup, pretty well the same thing.
1. Remove drive shaft
2. remove center U joint
3. remove yoke nut
4. slide yoke off, replace carrier bearing, and re assemble. I think the splines are indexed so the yoke only goes on one way, but mark it anyhow.

 

I used this one, then posted my experience, https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/center-carrier-bearing.272470/#post-9435350

 

Looks like the final torque is 51 ft/lbs on the yolk nut. Do you guys know the pre-load torque value?

 

As I recall, I could not keep the drive shaft from rotating so I could torque it. I think I put some blue threadlocker and used an air gun at #2 setting to tighten the nut.

 

@SoCal Hillbilly Did you ever get your Carrier bearing replaced? I'm in a similar situation and need to replace mine but haven't found any writeups except for the 1st gens.

 

How do you know when the carrier bearing needs replaced?

 

Process is the same for 1st and 2nd gens. Replaced mine twice and a buddies once. I used the 1st gen write up and worked perfectly. You will know if you re-assembled wrong because you will more than likely have a take off shudder due to drive shaft being out of phase.

 

when you start having driveline shudders, and the bearing has play in it or starts to squeak.






crappy video
(click)

 

I found a receipt from the last owner when they got the frame replacement a few months ago before I bought the truck. Says the carrier bearing needs to be replaced. haven't looked yet though. going to see how much play is in it later. I get a nice clunk sometimes though, hoping its the carrier bearing and not the U joints

 

Do you guys think a press is necessary for a new bearing install? I don't have access to one but I can definitely get my hands on a 2 or 3 arm puller.

Will just torquing the ujoint nut on compress the carrier bearing enough to press it onto the shaft like they did in the OP video?

 

No press is necessary. Bolt on yoke will press it sufficiently.

 

Thanks @trdNick. Ill let you guys know how the new bearing goes. Hopefully all that driveline shudder on start up goes away.

 

Thanks! Yea there is play in mine

 

Its not a bad job to do, just take your time and mark everything for proper re-assembly ( I found out the hard way) . I replaced all u-joints while I was at it, but then again I had non-greasable ones since I'm not 4x4.

 

I did it a while ago. $80 for the part. I used the link as a guide, worked out pretty good.

My bearing was good, it was the rubber that failed. The shaft was spinning on it a squealing. I filled the new one with silicone to give it more support; worked great.

 

What type of silicon? And how was it inserted? Curious, might do this to mine as a preventative.

 

Did you need any additional parts for the job? Toyota bearing or Doorman (rockauto)?

 

Just some home depot brand. Nothing special but I would look for one that is compatible with rubber and maybe has a temperature rating.

Find a way to make the drive shaft sit neutral in the bearing; jack it up. Then squirt as much of the sealant in the holes, top and bottom, that you can. If there arent any you can make small ones. The sealant will fill them up. Then let it dry overnight.

I have a big vise and air tools so it was pretty easy. Otherwise you need a big breaker bar. The video is pretty good, pretty simple job. The hard part is putting the new u-joint in correctly but its doable. Additional parts? I bought a new nut to replace the one on the carrier you have to take off; I recommend you do the same.

I also recommend calling Spicer and getting all the parts through one of their distributors. You'll save big money and have OEM parts.