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Blanco Taco Build. LS, 4.0 Kings, caged, backhalfed, Trophy Truck

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by FlapJack935, Nov 19, 2014.

  1. Sep 2, 2015 at 9:15 PM
    #121
    FlapJack935

    FlapJack935 [OP] i member

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    South circle is the first gate off of second street, north circle is the unlocked gate on the east side heading back up north between the 2 feces, go down to the dash and we hoped out and folded the massive doors and pulled in.

    image.jpg
     
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  2. Sep 3, 2015 at 12:15 AM
    #122
    Whitecloud

    Whitecloud Cloudy-fabricator of things

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    ICON Extended travel Coilovers, Custom leaf pack, custom sliders and F&R bumpers, 295 75 17 Toyo Open Country MT's, On-Board air with F+R connectors, On-Board water with quick disconnect shower.Trimmed fenders and body mount chop. LOTS of wiring, dual battery setup, Solar charging system, with some random lights spread around here and there.
  3. Sep 3, 2015 at 6:40 AM
    #123
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider #NFG

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    Warehouse pics look awesome! Always wanted to do this with a spot I know but my truck isn't where I want it yet.
     
    FlapJack935[OP] likes this.
  4. Sep 7, 2015 at 11:46 PM
    #124
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    So i am curious as i am about to do this setup almost exactly. Did you need to add larger bumps? Im considering just barely poking into the bed to fit a 14''. But if the 12'' was super tight, ill just stay with a 12''.
     
  5. Sep 8, 2015 at 11:41 AM
    #125
    FlapJack935

    FlapJack935 [OP] i member

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    sorry just got on, as of now i have no bumps lol i had 2.5x4 king bumps but i waited to long and i lost the deal. if you do 12" i suggest cutting the bed for the top of the towers.. mine i tried to get as close as possible without cutting, but they are so offset from the frame they rub like crazy... im gonna cage the rear and get 16" triples and tuck it close to the frame. the set up i have now is super clean and simple, just not much flex, stuffs nice thought. towers are from ruffstuff and modded them for this
     
  6. Sep 8, 2015 at 11:55 AM
    #126
    j0shu4

    j0shu4 98 TRD 4x4, 3.4 Turbo, Full LT, Fully Locked

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    Turbo, Fiberglass, Full Long Travel, Lockers, T100 axle, King Shocks
    You going outboard with an axle swap too?
     
  7. Sep 8, 2015 at 12:00 PM
    #127
    FlapJack935

    FlapJack935 [OP] i member

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    have the tundra axle on it now... still rubs, ill have to get triples pretty close to the frame to clear, may knotch the frame
     
  8. Sep 8, 2015 at 12:06 PM
    #128
    j0shu4

    j0shu4 98 TRD 4x4, 3.4 Turbo, Full LT, Fully Locked

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    Damn, that's crazy rubbing! Yeah, I have the 16" triples too. Last piece I need is the axle and brake proportioning valve. I'm not sure yet to buy a $500 yota axle or go all out on a built 9". Kinda a big decision and price differential, and I can't get over the love of the elocker for some reason. So convenient pushing a button without lines and compressors. I also liked the cable lockers.
     
  9. Sep 8, 2015 at 2:38 PM
    #129
    FlapJack935

    FlapJack935 [OP] i member

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    Nice! Tundra axle is so much better, this winter I'm thinking of having ruff stuff build me a housing and I'll get some shafts and a Detroit locker, you get your shocks in yet?
     
  10. Sep 8, 2015 at 2:40 PM
    #130
    FlapJack935

    FlapJack935 [OP] i member

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    Sturing up some ideas...
    Spare will go flat, I will have ruff stuff long curved shock tabs, single bar going across the hoops on the outside, weld the tabs to the bar and have a nice little curved tower, then I'll have a plate that'll run the contour on the front side, kind have the shock tops and tower above the bed line. I'll have ruff stuff couplers and make it all bolt in, just in 4 spots. Then some ruff stuff gussets here and there
    image.jpg
     
  11. Sep 8, 2015 at 3:59 PM
    #131
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    So you're saying that you can bottom out the shocks? How did you mount the lower part? is it on top of the axle or even or hanging below?

    Id had the idea of notching the wheel wells to let the the tubing poke up and follow the same line so it doesn't really poke all the way out. It'll just be temporary for me as well. Saving for a 4 link after that. I'll be bending my own tubing though.
     
  12. Sep 8, 2015 at 4:35 PM
    #132
    FlapJack935

    FlapJack935 [OP] i member

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    ill never bottom kings out lol thatll destroy them, i just haven't fully bumped the rear yet. ill sort out some king bumps when i get the chance. and ruffstuf curved axle tabs, i have them in front of the axle, kinda in the middle maybe a little lower.

    notching the wells is really what i should have done in the first place but didnt want to cut holes just yet. now ill cut out a good chunk of it lol i was thinking about linking it, but i like my stock gas tank, and dont really have the best space for a double cab for coils and bypasses in the rear, sprung under and ill call it after, planing on caging it this winter if all goes to plan
     
  13. Sep 8, 2015 at 4:38 PM
    #133
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Nothing wrong with SUA thats for sure.

    no sorry, i am asking if when you cycled it or if you lauch the truck with the rear shocks fully compressed, is it close to stock up travel or less? Make sense? Im just trying to figure out if i can fit 14'' shocks or just stay with 12''.
     
  14. Sep 8, 2015 at 5:02 PM
    #134
    j0shu4

    j0shu4 98 TRD 4x4, 3.4 Turbo, Full LT, Fully Locked

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    Yeah, I have kings front, rear, and bumps on all 4. They exchanged my 14" for 16's. Its all invading my garage space, haha. Almost everything minus the rear axle. I'm still waiting on solo to send me the fabricated 4x4 spindles which shold be here real soon, at powder coating. Then I will start the front first.
     
  15. Sep 8, 2015 at 9:15 PM
    #135
    FlapJack935

    FlapJack935 [OP] i member

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    Nice man
    Nice dude, I'm building a cage and going 16" triples and maybe bypasses for the front, new carpet, seats, headliner, and a cage inside and calling it quits after that, gonna focus on my rock crawler and enjoy them and finish school
     
  16. Sep 8, 2015 at 9:20 PM
    #136
    FlapJack935

    FlapJack935 [OP] i member

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    Idk if I'll go sprung under or not, may just leave it, but if I can find used parts I may. And I didn't cycle the rear, just put the springs on and called it a day, but the springs will arc neg before the shocks bottom out. 1" shock stroke to spare, the deavers are 1.5" lift, but these droop like crazy, I can bump pretty nice on them, like my profile pic. The rear I didn't spend a whole lot on, kinda wanted it done so I could drive it. But I'm more than happy with what it can do even though guys kinda bash SOA. Suits my needs
     
  17. Sep 8, 2015 at 9:22 PM
    #137
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Not sure you'll need 16s then if you stay SOA.

    Im gonna stay SOA for now anyways.

    Cool, i think i'll try and stuff a 14'' in there then.
     
  18. Sep 8, 2015 at 9:26 PM
    #138
    FlapJack935

    FlapJack935 [OP] i member

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    I'm going 16"s and a cage until I go sprung under, if not no harm done, extra cool points I guess, or if someone gives me an offer I can't resist on the truck it'll be ready for them
    14" should be sweet, notch the wells like you said and make it clean and I'm sure you can! There's probably 3-4" to be level with the top of the wheel well if I cut it out, my tower is all the way against the top of the well
     
  19. Sep 8, 2015 at 9:31 PM
    #139
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Yea i figure if i notch it and tilt the shocks forward just enough to allow hydros to bump off the axle. a 14'' will fit. Should be nice for now. Do some valving and romp the shit out of it. Pull probably close to the same travel as the front or more so it'll be okay for a while.

    16s for cool guy points for sure :cool:
     
  20. Sep 8, 2015 at 9:34 PM
    #140
    FlapJack935

    FlapJack935 [OP] i member

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    Yea! May even look into mounting the tower right on top of the frame, it's probably 2" into the bedside of the wheel well, but if you cut a nice hole out of the well it should get that shock snugged up against the frame, but far enough forward you can get your bumps in there, lots of ideas! Lol let me know when you start doing that, I'd like to read up and see how you do it!
     

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