**OHIO WHEELIN' & MEET-UP THREAD**

Worddddd.


Oooh and btw got a call from the exhaust shop today and may stainless exhaust is welded on!! Pickin her up tomorrow.

Thinking I'll take a trip to the DMV to get my bike plated ASAP.

After that it's time to put my suspension on. Any thoughts on what bumps are necessary? I hear that front bumps aren't necessary but in the rear I'm gaining around 2.5" so can I get some advice on aftermarket bumpstops?

 

Either way I'll be putting a set on. For $240 or whatever each, it doesn't bother me to get them. They have great reviews though

 

I know you are a first gen but I depends on how much up travel you don't have. You want a bump that will stop the shock at least an inch before the shock bottoms out internally. Air bumps or some sort of long bump will do. Just do measuring and see what your travel numbers are

Wheelers superbumps are a great product. I've got them in the front

 

Don't want to sound stupid here, but how exactly should I do these measurements. Are we talking measuring before install, after install, both? I don't want to over extend my shocks nor do I want to allow the leaf packs to over-flex. Throw me a bone and give me a simple step-by-step maybe?

 

What is your rear set up going to be?

 

Sport nitrochargers and dakar leaf pack with the extra leaf. Just looked up the price of some bumps and almost choked on my tongue. Why in the hell do they cost $200???

 

Did you look at timbrens? They are well worth that $200. I'm Savin up for some. But like I said, wheelers superbumps are amazing for their price too.

The lead pack is designed for different flexing and forces. You'll also have to figure out how long the shocks travel is, most shocks are like 6" I believe. Just measure the shaft and you will know. Then subtract an inch. Get a bump stop that will let each shock up travel that say 5" so that saves you from bottoming out the shock. You are pretty much just going to flex the truck, measure the shock shaft so that there's only 1" left and then measure the leaf spring to frame distance and that's how tall of a a bump stop you'll need.

I think I repeated myself quite often there in different phrases lol

 

We could always do some measurements at the wrench fest

 

Can you give me some idea of what makes different bumps better or worse?

Also, am I safe to assume that my front shocks will be fine with stock bumps even with 2.5" of lift?

 

It's just pretty much, some bumpstops are entirely made of rubber, some have air pockets in them (timbrens) and then you have air bumps for long travel. Timbrens are great because they slow down the speed of up travel, pure rubber ones just stop it without that smooth change of speed. Wheelers superbumps are like timbrens except they don't have an enclosed air pocket. They just have a long channel in the middle which is kind of the same thing.

Your front coilovers should have internal bumpstops anyways. They aren't going to be as good so you can't just bottom them out hard. I ran stock for a while and was perfectly fine

 

In the front I got springs and shocks seperate, I don't believe they have bumps "built in".

As for the rear bumps, wheelers and timbrens sound similar, are timbrens basically just better at smoothly absorbing the force of impact?

 

If you are just mostly crawling and not jumping or doing any high speed baja stuff, you don't need the high end bumps. To get proper measurements you have to install your dakars, before you install your shocks flex out your axle. Measure eye to eye, both full extended and fully stuffed. When stuffing the rear you don't want your leaf pack to go into negative arch, so if the leaf pack can stuff more but is going to go into a negative arch, stop at flat and measure. That is the length that you want to bump at so your springs dont go into a negative arch. So you should have a measurement of the axle fully drooped , and stuffed. Your shock should be just outside those measurements. Example, 22.5 extended and 14.5 stuffed, and your shocks are a 9 inch travel ome n85 which is 23 7/64 extended and 14 1/16 collapsed you would be good and bump to keep your spring from going negative or close to your compressed length. If you have more travel in your springs then you should run limit straps to prevent you shocks from being your "limiting factor" so as not to damage them. If your shock is the limit on full stuff, it will again cause it damage. You don't wan't your shock to be your limiting factor. Thats why just because you have a 12 inch travel shock, if you springs won't let the axle travel that much, you wont utilize all that travel. Same if your mounting points aren't in the right places you again won't utilize all the travel. Example. Measurement on truck 13 stuffed 23 drooped shock measurement 15 compressed and 25 extended, you wont get the full 10inches of travel out of this mismatched setup. Clear as mud?

 

I mean... You've seen me wheel right?

 

You would be fine with a set of 50 dollar daystars. Of course superbumps and timbrens are nice, but i can't justify that much for bumps, maybe one day after i get all the other stuff i need.

 

Will look into it, thanks Greg!


Also thank you Roman, I'll do some measuring when it comes time for the suspension to go on.

 

Dakars and All Pros leafs are designed to be okay with negative arch

 

I'll be getting the truck done this long weekend so I'll be posting pics Monday night. Stay tuned

 

Got my truck back from the exhaust place today with stainless pipes and a stainless muffler off of some recent model year Ford SUV. Went down to 2" mandrel just 'cause.. don't wanna drop all that money on the longtube just to lose my low-end due to lack of exhaust gas velocity at low revs

 

Managed to find a way to get out this beautiful Labor Day weekend!