SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

scratch that..I just remembered what I did to remove the Civic Axle nut...I just put the wheel back on, and rested the car on the ground just enough to where the axle would not spin...

 

Might not make it to the machine shop today, they close in 45 min. Eric's taking his time doing this and I'm glad!! Lotsa stuff to take apart in there. And you all know how we loveourtacolots

I'm playing in the dirt, trying to make a smooth slope for continuing the driveway. It's really great fun

 

I put the truck in 4lo and in park/1st gear

if you really did step on the brakes you're going to have to spread the pads back out to get that caliper back on. ... don't ever want to step on the brakes when they're removed

 

Seems like I might be getting somewhere finally (now that the machine shop is closed). The only thing I can't get a handle on is removing the upper ball joint. Seems like I may need to use a puller on that one

 

Got it!! Naturally 20 min after the machine shop closed.

 

yep, its best to buy a ball joint press to remove them, makes life sooo much easier when separating ball joints or tie rods. its a tool every mechanic needs to have, no more beating on stuff and cursing

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sealey-Ball...ories-AK380-/390974104701?hash=item5b07df647d

 

We (my army neighbor and I) used my Harbor Freight pickle fork puller, and it did the trick. Time to wash up and grill some brats. Thanks for hanging in there TW. What do you think of the condition of that upper ball joint? Seems like I am losing grease. Do you think my machine shop would replace that for me also?

 

never messed with upper ball joint before but if its pressed in then yes now is the time to replace it no matter what and have them press it in when they press the bearings, any extra cost will be minimal.

as to condition, if it feels snug and isn't easy to turn or move around then its fine, if it does move without resistance then its worn.

it should be a snug fit in the socket and not want to move without being forced to

if its ok then use an injector seringe to refill it with grease

EDIT: just confirmed it is a pressed in ball joint so my advice is have a new Toyota oem upper ball joint ($33) installed with the bearings and don't even bother with if the old one is bad or not. you don't want to have to redo all that work in a year when that old ball joint goes out on you (murphy's law)

I would not use aftermarket ball joints on these trucks unless they are bolt ins that are easy to replace again later.

as it turns out you are lucky to have the shop close so now you can buy an upper ball joint for it before you go over there

 

Yes!! Do not use O'Riley or vatozone ball joints!

 

Thanks for the input everyone!!

Brats and beer time!!

 

Since I am going to do the drivers side ball joints, should I do the passenger side so it doesn't drive weird? Or will it be okay just doing one side?

 

Yes, you can replace ball joints one at a time, but if one side is worn, the other side is most likely worn also.

Howard

 

best to go ahead and do both sides while you are at it...however, I believe the ball joints are going to be a bit more than the $33 mentioned earlier....definately go OEM, much better quality and the rubber grease boot is substantial compared to aftermarket off brands...

 

I think maybe the re-install she go like this ^^ ...good one keakar!

 

What are EGCS bushings?

 

The intro music rocks ...thanks for the video keakar

 

Something you don't need to worry about on your first gen

It is a bushing that replaces the needle bearing on the side of the front differential housing in the 2nd gen trucks to solve vibration issues.

 

Calling around for pricing on ball joints.

On hold with local dealer parts now.

I always go for their price 1st and get the heart attack outta the way, then work my way through the rest

Everyone, would you go ahead and do both ball joints at the same time if you found you needed to do one of them?

Apologies if this was already discussed and I missed it, but does anyone have suggestions of other things to go ahead and replace "while you're in there" or to at least be sure to examine "while you're in there"?

 

if one "needed" to be changed because the ball joint was bad then yes in that case I would assume both are worn out and do both uppers at the same time or if you were replacing the bearings on both side then in that case also I would do both uppers at the same time.

if your just doing the one side bearings then do just that one side upper ball joint.

we never talked about the bottom ball joint but I "assume" you checked them and they look good and still feel tight

 

Good point about the lowers - we were just searching TW for advice on the uppers and came across a number of folks discussing the lowers. Not sure what Eric's thoughts were on how our lowers looked, but it's now definitely on our list of things to talk about more.

No dealers in our area have the uppers!! Yikes. There's a dealer just south of Seattle that has some, so we could have them shipped but tough to say when they'd arrive, and it sucks because the truck is all taken apart now.

Also, Eric is trying to figure out if he needs to give the upper ball joint to the press guy when we take the wheel bearing in - meaning, can Eric attach that stuff at home or do we need the machine shop to do it?