Rust?

My 2008 has been excellent as far as rust goes. They applied the goop to the frame but it was rust free. I have zero rust on the body, including door and tailgate edges. I live in Massachusetts where the road salt is heavily used. I do get regular weekly under carriage washes in the winter.
I attribute the frequent washes to a rust free vehicle (so far) !

 

You had better do something yearly...this is not enough.

 

Do you have a product you recommend? I've always heard FF is so good because it likes to move around and creep. People said it wasn't like a wax it was more sticky

 

I never said that I was only doing it once. I plan to do it every spring and fall. I'm not stupid. I know there isn't a one time fix

 

Most commercial products are one time applications which eventually firm up leaving a protective coating. You must not spray FF inside body panels, but only on flat surfaces, then like paint, touch it up yearly FF inside body panels will clog drain holes leaving you worse off then before. If you are going to go under your car yearly, just put two quarts of biodegradable oil in a garden sprayer to spray into drain holes inside frame and body panels. Then, "paint" the worse areas that rust with wheel bearing grease using a foam brush. It's a yearly endeavor and not for lazy MF'rs like myself sometimes....but it's less then the time it takes to change your oil, once a year.

 

Honestly not worried about the body panels. Between 4 friends and myself, we have 9 4Runners and not one has body rust. Never seen a Taco here with body rust either. My only concern is the frame

 

If all you use is FF....with all due respect, it is not enough. This stuff should not be used in areas like door panels, rockets and quarters. There are also areas that have attachments to frame. I doubt that you want to disassemble them every year....so a spray of oil will creep into crevices that water and salt water will go. No one is stupid, no one is calling any one that but if you don't coat with an insulator that FLOWS as well as water itself...fall and spring...not necessary.

 

You keep saying that FF doesn't creep, but everyone else says it does. I haven't tried these products myself so I'm just going by what people say. You're one of the few who says that FF "dries."

I'm not using anything in the door panels, rockers, or anything on the body like I said before. My only concern is the frame and metal that attaches to it

 

I highly recommend Corrosion Free.... this product has kept my 2006 Taco frame looking like it was new last month...(Last 4 vehicles also..) Passed the frame inspection at the dealer with flying colors....!! The service guy actually told me not to have the Toyota shit sprayed on it...just keep on doing what you are doing.... that confirmed my opinion also....

I live in Muskoka, Ont... This part of Ontario goes warm/cold every other day... not cold every day like up north, or warm most of the time like down south... as a result, they use LOTS of salt....but in the last few years here, they are using calcium chloride in a liquid form... this stuff is worst than normal road salt and it sticks to the truck like shit to tighty-whities...

I have it applied every year in the fall..... Worked for me for years...

 

I can't debate that because we don't know whether you actually had rust you weren't aware of, how old your vehicles are or what your expectations are. Toyota does a better then average job of protecting vs body panel rust....all I can say is that depending upon your willingness to get dirty once a year, this idea of coating with non electrolyric substances yearly is a scientific approach to an on going problems that keeps cars rust free for decades.
This is what a friend with a doctorate in physics does...I only have a masters in math and science, so I am behind him.

Bottom line, it's about workmanship and only the owner will take the time to do things like find all the drain holes for frame members and body panels.

 

Tell me more about this frame/gooey treatment? Does any shop do it? And what exactly is it? Could you provide some info? Thanks in advance!

 

http://www.linexofmv.com/fluid_film_undercoating.php
please read this. FF is an undercoating, it should not be used inside body panels with drain holes IT HAS THE CONSISTENCY OF LATEX PAINT and will firm up. If I said dry, that was not my intent but please read what it actually is. IT WILL NOT FLOW like motor oil and it will clog drain holes. Flat exposed surfaces, fine, but rust forms often from inside and only something with the consistency of water, like oil can flow as easily to get to like areas.....think latex paint. You are essentially spraying latex paint like characteristics.......with similar flow characteristics. That is fine as an undercoating for exposed surfaces. Rain water and salt water has much better flow characteristics. It is not a fix all.

 

Is there a resource that provides and presents third-party research about these products as well as a guide as to how to apply and enact rust control/prevention methods?
I know I'm asking for a lot, but it really helps FNG's like myself who aren't car-savvy educate ourselves in preventative measures. I know washing is always good but it can only do so much. I got Lavender (Tacoma) used and she already had some superficial rust on her... so it's not so much prevention as it is damage control.

 

In the end, subjective personal experience is all we have.....except, when you talk about the actual cause of rust and the flow and insulating qualities of oil and grease. Then, you have science on your side and not a profit making enterprise opinions. For the obvious reason, we still want someone else to spray it on and do the job. Where rust proofing fails, is the workmanship, and not just the material. So, you can use all the FF in the world but if it's spray where it should not or not enough where it should, rust will be an end product.

I am not telling you anything anyone in mechanics and body work does not already know. It's logic, it's inexpensive and it works and that's not what you get from commercial rust proofing.

 

Anyone have experience with Krown? They spray it for $120, thinking about going there.

 

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/glob...y-rust-proofing-for-your-car/article19839668/

Theoretically a drip oil spray is the best at reaching the needed areas. But, it still depends on workmanship and still should be done yearly or bi annually.

 

The gooey treatment is the one Toyota uses now on the 2GEN frames they don't deem "bad enough".
There are threads on here that explain the process. It looks like tar that never dries.
What I had done was an oil undercoat from a family that has specialized in oil undercoating.
Where I live there still are a few mechanic shops that do it too.
I choose the shop because they re-apply for a very nominal fee & warranty their work.
Think they have been in business for 30+ years, it is a well know family business that also own quarries here in VT.
It is also a special mix of some sort of wax along with the product.
On my 2006 I used fluid film but didn't treat it in time.
My frame was already trashed some due to me not treating from the get go.

 

Mind telling me the business? I'm over in Albany so it may not be too far.

 

The cool thing about an oil based application is.....even over rust, it will still work until washed away.

 

Carrara Hot Oil Rustproofing 43 years in business
It is just east of Rutland a couple miles in Shrewsbury.