The Frankenstein Build! LT/Expo/Trail rig..and BS

This is awesome. Good to know turboing might be more effective. I might have to make some changes to the truck wishlist.

 

2jz still on my list lol

 

Yea i got slightly bored and actually curious.

All the SC parts are if you buy brand new and includes shipping.

Same with turbo stuff..minus some shipping as i couldn't get shipping infor from CX. But i put more in the MIS area of the turbo anyways as its kinda a custom project.

SC does have one big factor going for it...reliability. Its VERY proven. Well known and pretty bulletproof..

Its still a tempting option. But it'll run around 8 grand i think. once i crossed 6k it just didn't seem worth it to me. I didn't include a few key parts on that list. Plus all the fab work and such. And loss of low end power. Not huge mind you. But at 2k its about 25ft/lbs less. And thats with an upgraded 2jzgte pushing almost 400hp on stock twins vs a stock 5vzfe...

Sure..25..not a big deal...but the way i see it. With a uber fast spinning turbo, you'll be well over that at 2k. Power band is just better on the 5vzfe.

 

Also, missing from the list are Wideband O2 and boost gauge with cluster and few other small things. But i didn't include those as id get those regardless of choice of boost. But be another 500 probably for that stuff.

 

May be a little easier to do the 2jz(and trans) swap and build it. Rather than turbo charge a 130k+ miles 5vz and risk damaging it. Would maybe cost more to put the same power as the 2jz. Idk. I dont know the facts. Just spit balling here lol

 

It was my understanding that a SC is harder on an engine than a turbo...

 

It would cost a lot more to make the same power.

You don't have to swap the trans and i wouldn't, the r154 has taller gears. The r150 bolts right to the 2jz anyways. Plus 2jz parts are so freaking pricey..you'd end up with 10k in it easily when your done. Have great to end power but not the low end grunt.

Turboing can't be any worse than SC...well..sorta. More power from a turbo. But knowing how guys abuse the 5vz with the SC and i have seen plenty that do it on 180k+ motors that im fine with doing it. Id probably never go over 10-12psi from a 62mm turbo. or 8-10 from a 67mm.

the cool factor would be insane with a 2jz. And yes, probably a bit more reliable as its made for boost and proven for 600hp stock internals no problem. It would be nice to see a dyno of a turboed 5vz to really compare the two. Gearing is always working for me on the low end too.

There are a ton of factors for any situation..splitting hairs really. a 2jz would still be fun i think..

what? How so...

 

Because constant boost? More pressure on the motor constantly... Right?

 

My dyno numbers should be in next week. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, just in the hopes of getting good numbers......I'll keep you posted. Should be on the rollers getting the tune today at 10psi w/meth.

 

Superchargers dont provide constant boost any more than a turbo would.. superchargers have bypass valves to release the pressure built up. While they still will provide some air compression its not enough to overcome vaccum and actually be boost which is the same as a turbo continually spinning without building boost either.

 

Debatable. You can abuse the engine as much as you want with either forced induction but generally, yes this is correct.

The issue with the TRD s/c is it uses the old three lobe design which is very inefficient at higher RPM's. Boost is built two ways: Packing in air, and heating the air.

I can't find the thread, but the stock TRD S/C intake temps at 5k rpms (~redline for 5VZ) are 300F over ambient (stock pulley mind you). After around 9psi, the S/C isn't building boost so much by moving more air but by supper heating the intake air. This is compounded by not having an intercooler; IMO meth injectors are a must for the S/C. Another $400-500 for you Monte

Then there is the approx 30hp+ parasitic loss (I forgot the RPM's) from turning the S/C that puts an extra load on the engine.

Lastly, for some reason, some 5VZ's will ping if you accelerate in high gear (high load, low RPM ping). This is why Toyota actually had a volunteer recall on the S/C. The URD kit does not tune closed loop, IIRC, and does not fix this. You need a piggy back and a good tune for closed loop operation to keep it from pinging.

This is why I chose Turbo (and as Monte points out, its cheaper )

 

Well. Everyone beat me too it. But yea superchargers don't boost all the time. My dads won't be cursing down the highway untill you hit a hill for example. It's using the bypass there.

Yea the only real reason I would consider the supercharger is ease of install and reliability. But really all boost is going to affect the reliability. My dads throws codes all the time. Granted his is tweaked a bit more towards the edge than the average TRD blower but still.

 

one nice thing about a roots style blower aka TRD is there isnt any pressured intake piping. i HATED dealing with pipe coupling blowing off from turbos..such an annoyance even with bead rolled pipes and tclamps

 

I think for the power goals, psi won't be much over 10-12

The problem with turbo on these trucks is the maf. BOV makes it more complicated. If you tune the MAF and BOV release correctly it can be mitigated but I don't think BOV's are necessary.

This guy is annoying AF but gets the point across pretty well. BOV's aren't needed

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZnLv27EOWIo

 

i never had an issue with having a BOV and MAF on my 240sx, granted a different animal. But just re-route the bov pressure in behind the maf sensor so you dont lose metered air and itll help spool the turbo for the next gear

 

A re route isn't totally necessary and doesn't always work.

Ideally you would position the BOV before the MAF (MAF bt BOV and TB) and adjust it so when it releases you minimize air back flowing over the MAF. As long as you adjust the BOV spring so it doesn't dump to much too fast, you can maintain boost pressure and reduce/eliminate the pressure spikes.

The MAF will always be an issue for boosted cars but as long as you do it right, you shouldn't have to worry about stalling the car.

 

if you relocate a MAF between the turbo and throttle body you are measuring compressed air intake which isnt the true amount of air. its easier to leave the MAF right after the air filter and just have the bov route between the turbo inlet/maf. shouldnt have any pressure spikes unless your bov isnt fully functioning and letting off the "boost" in a timely manner.

 

I think there is guys on here boosting with 200k on the motor with no problems.

 

@Blackdawg what was the specs on the turbo you were thinking about getting?