OFFICIAL 2nd gen 4x4 front differential bearing vibration thread

Same here. Been meaning to fix it. But I hate pulling the skids...

 

That's what I was thinking.

 

Only if I want it to drive right

alignment after any front end work is cheap tire insurance

 

No alignment afterwards on mine. You're not messing with any geometry. Just Unbolting and rebolting

 

Yea, most people do not touch the LCA eccentrics(alignment bolts).

 

I'm having my local shop (trick trucks - mostly a lift installer) install the bushing tomorrow. They've never done this exact install, but have extensive experience re-gearing and replacing diffs. I don't have the time to do it myself, any tips I should tell them before they crack it open? I bought the bushing, seal and tool to pull the old bearing out. After the install, I'll send my tool out for loan to anyone who needs it... Thanks for any advice.

 

Maaaaaake sure they are fully aware to make the tool completely centered. I think that's where I messed up the first time.

 

Just over 20k on mine in the double cab. Still nice and smooth

 

sub'd

 

Just received my bearing today. I'll plan on being after you for Unchained's set of tools. I'll let you know if I find another set.

 

It's good to see people still saying subd like back in the day

 

Install is done. Vibes aren't gone - going to try replacing all 3 u joints next. If anyone needs to borrow my install tool, PM me.

Edit - I do not have a bearing driver, just the puller from ECGS.

 

Got my bushing installed today and two seals, one in diff and one in hub. Should've done the seals on the cv axle too as they didn't look very good either. Has anyone serviced their CV axles, like taken off the boots, cleaned the knuckles of old grease and repacked it then replaced the seals on the axle? Or is it more time and cost effective to just replace it?

Anyways the bushing wasn't too hard but would've been easier with a race/bearing driver. I spent the majority of my time trying to get out the stripped diff drain plug (thanks previous owner/mechanic). Tried a a bolt extractor first which didn't do anything because the only wrench that would fit it was a 12-pt 5/16 which is tiny, wanted to bend and rounded off the closed end. Tried combination wrench too but it only rounded off the extractor. So went to drill and tried every torx head socket until 10 mm by drilling and pounding it in with a hammer. Finally got the T55 to go in after drilling all the way through the drain plug and pounding the whole torx socket into it. Finally gave, even after aggressive use of PB blaster, which seemed to have no effect on it. Replaced both fill and drain plugs with non-hex headed bolts, drain from Goldplug and fill from autozone. Also managed to damage both the tie rod end and upper ball joint from trying to break them free (rookie mistake), they were probably on their way out anyways. In the end, the noise was better but I still heard the noise I thought was either the wheel bearing or spindle bearing. Replaced both front wheel bearings and needle bearing, but still heard a brwaaapp sound between 30-40 mph. What could it be?

Below was the result of hours of trial and error on the drain plug:

Spoiler

Now all my drivetrain fluids are finally replaced. Next up will be coolant, but probably leave that to the professionals, unless their is a DIY here. I have the bearing removal tool available too.

 

Sorry I meant needle bearing. No, i dont have a coolant removal tool but I do have the bearing removal tool.

 

TSB is a JOKE

And the joke is on us. Toy is using the same needle bearing for the TSB.

Way to go Toyota. Not.

 

if you hit up a parts fiche of the replacement part number it states "needle bearing" for the description.

 

I Eat (Partial) Crow

T-SB-0026-15 was issued May 20, 2015
The old part number is 90364-35010, needle bearing

- For 2007-2014 FJ Cruisers and 2005-2015 Tacomas the new part number is 90364-35008, needle bearing
- For 2004-2014 4Runners the new part number is 90364-35010, needle bearing.

So the 4Runner guys get our junk needle bearing and the FJ Cruisers and us get a different part number.

I'll order one and see what, if anything, is different. Tough luck 4Runners.

 

Just a tip for those replacing the axle seal when you change out the bearing for the bushing:

Several people here mentioned using 2" pvc pipe to drive in the new seal. I could not get this to work for the life of me. It would always go crooked to one side or another. I went searching around the shop for other things with the correct diameter and found a 2" galvanized end cap:

It fit around the seal much better, had some weight to it, and had a nice surface to pound against. The seal went in right away.

 

That's why I included the driver tool with the kit I lent out

 

I'm a douche. I said bushing. I meant seal. This is for the seal.