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2nd Gen 4x4 35s 3" Lift w/o BODY LIFT

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Slimwood Shady, Jul 10, 2013.

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  1. Oct 29, 2015 at 7:28 PM
    #4581
    RockyMtnTRD

    RockyMtnTRD Wanderlust.

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    I would be interested for sure
     
  2. Oct 29, 2015 at 7:35 PM
    #4582
    InTheRough

    InTheRough Well-Known Member

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  3. Oct 29, 2015 at 7:37 PM
    #4583
    InTheRough

    InTheRough Well-Known Member

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  4. Oct 29, 2015 at 8:29 PM
    #4584
    dakotasyota

    dakotasyota Just a Fringe of the Ging in your Minge

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    So much 37" peer pressure
     
  5. Oct 29, 2015 at 8:38 PM
    #4585
    RockyMtnTRD

    RockyMtnTRD Wanderlust.

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    Sounds like you wanna go 37" :spy:
     
  6. Oct 29, 2015 at 8:39 PM
    #4586
    dakotasyota

    dakotasyota Just a Fringe of the Ging in your Minge

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    I do but I don't
     
  7. Oct 29, 2015 at 8:58 PM
    #4587
    SMKYTXN

    SMKYTXN If it can't be overdone it's not worth doing Vendor

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    I doubt the flap would hold up to speed. That's meant to be a "wipe", like the seal on the bottom of your door.

    As for the trim that would fit a flare. I buy 500ft spools of the stuff so I can keep my price below the other folks that sell it.

    So yeah, I would need at least 10 if not 15 people to commit to a 20' order before I could justify placing an order. The lead time is pretty long as well. I think it took about six weeks for my last batch to come in. The company makes it as it's ordered. Not trying to talk anyone out of it by any means though. If someone wants to set up a group buy I'd be more than willing to go for it.
     
  8. Oct 30, 2015 at 4:35 AM
    #4588
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    Just depends on how big the wheel well is. 33s look big on a stock body, stock ride height Tacoma. 35s look big on a stock body, lifted Tacoma. 35s look right with 2" cut out of fenders. 37s look right with 3"-4" cut out of fenders. Run no fenders and 40s could look small.
     
  9. Oct 30, 2015 at 5:12 AM
    #4589
    NYCO

    NYCO go explore...

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    couldn't we all :cookiemonster:
     
  10. Oct 30, 2015 at 5:22 AM
    #4590
    InTheRough

    InTheRough Well-Known Member

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    Wouldn't 37's rub pretty bad on a mid travel 2nd gen even with a CMC and removed pinchweld?
     
  11. Oct 30, 2015 at 5:26 AM
    #4591
    Large

    Large Red

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    yes .. you are better off removing the cab mounts completely and having new ones put on 2" behind the old ones, it's what I did and I plan to go to 37s eventually
     
  12. Oct 30, 2015 at 5:29 AM
    #4592
    InTheRough

    InTheRough Well-Known Member

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    I can understand dong that (although it sounds like a lot of work) but wouldn't it still rub pretty hard on the body when flexing? I wasn't sure what was behind the wheel well sheet metal before I cut my pinchweld but once I cut that off I realized that there is just a thin piece of metal and some carpet between my tires and the interior.
     
  13. Oct 30, 2015 at 5:35 AM
    #4593
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    Large Red

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    It would still rub, there are numerous ways of dealing with the rubbing but I plan to have longer bumps .. maybe 1" or so, tub the fuck out of the wells (maybe remove them and have them re-welded on) and basically BFH it when she needs it
     
  14. Oct 30, 2015 at 5:59 AM
    #4594
    AaronArf

    AaronArf Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't even consider 37's if your not going to tub the firewall/inner fender (Edit: Which means relocating a ton of stuff under the hood).

    The amount of "BFH"ing required would destroy the sheet metal...aka leaks everywhere.
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2015
    dakotasyota likes this.
  15. Oct 30, 2015 at 6:15 AM
    #4595
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    Large Red

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    I guess I should have said wells and firewall / fenders .. just thought it was implied. I am aware of what needs to be done, the cab mount relocate was I think the most pain in the dick part and it's already out of the way.
     
  16. Oct 30, 2015 at 7:11 AM
    #4596
    Robertocritser

    Robertocritser Well-Known Member

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    37 stuffed at full lock
    33b164a2b32bd4a68e88629c068f5d85_b8260e85c5b5678a31e58a89b82272082470b9ce.jpg

    Ride height
    26871ce94774616baaae23d00f8460c4_60833074407518db8dc1009df8afe9c0ce8e7499.jpg
    a12ce4f37032517f5d5dc441b27b85ff_9bd6ab8b3a6a59b53d4bfb9205d75a052e77f99e.jpg

    What I had to cut
    5fd2de9fc4a32396d92d9fcd24c1c491_59c44625ca36b23098474c7e4b9040553933cd1d.jpg

    All sealed up with new cab mount
    8e43f748cafbfc0fb1ad81f399b7f780_71034be575890fafde9ac50ce2e3e0fe5c518f01.jpg

    It takes a little work but if you know your way around with a grinder and welder it will take you a weekend to fit it.

    Also I had to use a bfh to prevent hitting the inner fenders. I still rub slightly in the right spot
     
    ajohnson and 2ndGenJonny like this.
  17. Oct 30, 2015 at 7:14 AM
    #4597
    Robertocritser

    Robertocritser Well-Known Member

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    Metal silicon sealer works very well, haven't had a leak since I did mine...
     
  18. Oct 30, 2015 at 8:23 AM
    #4598
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    Good example of what it actually takes vs what people "think" it takes.
     
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  19. Oct 30, 2015 at 11:06 AM
    #4599
    AaronArf

    AaronArf Well-Known Member

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    You do any high speed stuff? I know on my rig I'd have to cut the top inner fenders quite a bit to properly clear 37's for all wheeling scenarios.

    Seam seal works great - looks like you did yours the right way by cutting and welding in filler panels. Not going to achieve 37s without doing that or a BL.
     
  20. Oct 30, 2015 at 11:09 AM
    #4600
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    Large Red

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    37 ? look like 36x10 intercos
     
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