Possible Fix - Door Seal Noise

Why/where did you put tape on the cab side?

 

I taped up the paint part where the inner layer of weatherstripping touches the cab. I'll try and get a picture later today when I take it out and post it so this will make more sense. I basically doubled up on the tape, if it still makes noise I'll remove one of the sides and try again.

 

I'm back. Just seeing what you guys are trying. I'm serious, try stuffing the door with foam and using some kind off seal or weather stripping like I posted. It works. Don't mess with silicon, grease, or any lube. Will just make a mess. Good luck.

 

I'm starting with the simplest approach and scaling up as needed, of this works for me then I'll be good, if not I'll try something else. Thanks for the advice though, if this doesn't work I'll be trying this later

 

No prob. This issue drove me insane. I tried everything.

 

Ok guys, here's some photos of where I put my tape. So far on one drive yesterday, it worked fantastic! First one shows where I put it on the door. I just a single piece on the weatherstripping where it would meet the body. It's very difficult to see but it runs right on the weatherstripping.



Here's the second, where I put it on the body. It blend in very well but this one you can see where the end of the tape doesn't lay flat, I hadn't completely fixed that when I took this picture. That helps gives you an idea of where I put it.



This is the most important one I think, I ran an errand with it earlier yesterday and the noise was reduced by at least 90%! However, I took this one off on the way home and it came back, this seems like it's the more important one to worry about, at least for me.

Hope this helps. I'll updated later this week on how it holds up. Supposed to get some rain too so we'll see if it leaks.

 

I'd agree. On mine, I don't think anything is necessary on the door-side rubber seal. I put tape on the metal part of the door. Hadn't thought about using black tape on the cab side rubber seal. Good idea. Looks better than magic tape on my door metal!

 

Yeah, it's not even noticable, even if I'm looking for it it's hard to see. And the end result is still the same.

 

My update:
2015 DCSB with 3500 miles. As a reminder, I siliconed IN and ON every piece of rubber on the door and frame. Used about a can of silicone, and it made no difference. I tried clear scotch tape, smooth electrical tape, and duct tape on the door corner that we have been discussing. It made no difference. I stacked a pretty thick amount of duct tape up once, to see if the added height would help - it made no real difference.

Friday I grabbed some friction tape and made the L pattern as has been discussed that we all know is a potential work around. BIG difference so far (3 days). I believe that the dual issues stated by @buzzkill911 a few posts above are on point. You want a tape that offers friction (like, uh, friction tape) for the metal to rubber surfaces, plus potentially the silicone spray for the interior of both seals.

I was initially trying tapes I had on hand, but finally remembered to buy the friction tape to try Friday. For those that do not have it, it is very much textured like old school athletic trainers tape (which I have but forgot). That might work as a POC test. Before resorting to the drastic thick foams or door seals, try friction tape specifically.

Also, I think depending on the severity, the extra tape as described by @Houston may or may not be needed.

Now we will see how long the improvement lasts. And I will remove this tape before I take it in for service in a month or so.

 

Okay we need someone that lives on the East Coast to chime in if this works. Because in the hot months I don't have it

 

I'm going to replace the magic tape with this. The tape will have a secondary purpose. If I'm parked on the side of the road and the door is open, reflective tape! The noise on mine is coming from the top of the door only, not the corner or the vertical side portion. I'll cut a 6" x .5" strip and put it across the top of the door. I'll probably do both front doors for symmetry. Ha Because I'm sort of a perfectionist like that.

 

So got an updated on mine. It was quite cold (for the south) yesterday morning at 50 degrees, the electrical tape was making all kinds of noise. I stopped at red light and opened my door real quick, yanked it off and it didn't seem to make much more noise after that, my guess is because of the sticky tape residue on there after I pulled it off. I did however happen to have a roll of 3M blue painters tape in my truck. Got to work, taped it up again with that tape and she seems to be working much better now. Not a peep at lunch yesterday, the drive home, or this morning (which was about 55). It looks a lot worse but seems to be doing much better. I've ordered

$13 1" Width ProTapes Pro Gaff Premium Matte Cloth Gaffer's Tape With Rubber Adhesive, 11 mils Thick, 55 yds Length, Black (Pack of 1)

this tape to replace the painters tape this weekend. This stuff is awesome for those that have never used it. I use to work in concert productions and that was the only stuff we were ever allowed to take any wires with. Its strong but comes up easy, never leaves the sticky residue like duct tape does, and is pretty thick. Going to replace it hopefully this weekend or next and see how it goes. I'll keep you guys updated.

 

I think the gaffers tape will work like you want; It is essentially friction tape if I recall correctly.

 

Check this thread. I applied friction tape to my driver and passenger door frame where it meets the seal back in January and have not had the noise problem since.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/door-seals-constantly-squeak.232294/page-4#post-9668147

http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-1-5-in-x-40-ft-Temflex-Friction-Tape-57173-S-10/205523424

Gaffers tape as mentioned by Houston is very similar and should work.

 

Thanks for link to the other thread, not sure in my months of searching how I missed that! Like you said, friction tape or something similar (in my case gaffe tape since I needed another roll anyway) should hopefully do the trick. I am tempted to do what a couple others on that thread and this one have mentioned, and pull out the window seal and put something up in there for good measure. That one makes me a bit nervous to do in case I get it screwed up but I might give it a shot at some point.

 

I started reading this thread as well regarding crosswind noise. Seems like they could be related. I also get the "kazoo" sound (2015 DC) with cross winds and wonder if adding some drip pipe would help.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/whistling-noise-in-crosswinds-at-highway-speed.309795/page-13

C'mon Toyota.

 

I had the crosswind noise on my 2013, only really happened at highway speeds with a pretty stiff direct crosswind. There's a couple threads out there on that, never really got anywhere figuring that problem out. It seemed like there was about 5 possible things causing it. It definitely could be related to this, although I never had the squeak like I've mentioned here on my old '13. In fact, the xwind noise was the only complaint I ever had about my '13, wish that was the case with this 2015, not cool Toyota!

 

Here's a few others you might have missed. We have most parts documented in this thread, but just to consolidate for any future readers there are a few discussions with numerous fixes:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/window-or-door-rattle-fix.396571/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2011-dc-window-rattle.206869/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2015-tacoma-dclb-window-squeeking.388335/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/door-seal-squeak-fix.316029/

 

The problem with this and all the other threads is there are a couple distinct issues that cause similar door noise. Some folks have one, others have 2 or 3. You need to make sure you tackle the right one, and that leads to a lot of reading and axperimenting ....

 

Exactly, I've gone through a couple different ideas and variations on things others have posted (think likes extra weatherstripping, silicon, etc) and this is my best bet so far. Also happens to be the simplest and probably cheapest haha