Sylvania Zevo 3157 LED

Found these at Walmart today for $20. Looks like a match to our rear blinkers.

 

Amber are stock color not red, also I think they are supposed to be 3157ck?

 

My 2014 is a 3157NA rear blinker, 4157NA front blinker/DRL.
My bad. I thought rears were red. Ha Never mind.

 

They do make an amber one, but again I'm not sure they'll work right due to the polarity of the light socket.

 

I'm not familiar with standard vs ck. Thanks for the heads up. Never knew there was a difference.
I thought that the "A" in NA indicated Amber (eg. 3157NA).

 

Either 3157 or 4157 will work. Just depends on what color. With these you will need resistors if you don't want hyper flash. I run these 3157 zevo's in my dtr / signals. Been great.

 

What color are you running in your DTR's?

It said on the back of the package that it shouldn't cause a problem with hyper.

 

they will cause hyperflash, at least they do on my 09

 

I just talked to the guy at autozone and he said the same thing- if you're using them for flashers. Maybe they won't throw a code in a steady lit socket? but for flashers, a resistor will be required. Sylvania makes a nice little resistor, right next to the bulbs in matching packaging at orieleys and autozone.

 

You can actually buy a relay that has a dial built into it to change them to timed flashers instead of a standard relay. Once I get them for mine I will post a part number, it is an OEM flasher

 

Anyone know why toyota used a 3157 in the 2nd gen blinkers? The sockets only have 2 wires running to them so there's no need for a multi-level bulb, they've probably got the two pos leads wired together as well as the grounds (probably also why they used the CK socket instead of the standard).

For LED swaps, would a 3156 fit the socket?

 

I have LEDs swapped into mine but it causes the speed blink issues... they acutally use a 3157CK which has the grounds ckts using one wire for both grounds on the bulb. with a standard halogen bulb, no problem because current flow doesn't matter. However, with an LED, they are polarity sensitive and current will only flow one way.

to answer your original question, yes a 3156 will work and fit but they used 3157 for the purposes of the day time running lights.

 

turned out that the JDM ASTAR LEDs I bought were easy to convert to work with the CK socket, just bent the terminal wires ionto the appropriate sides.

Also, i used 10 ohm resistors instead of the regular 2 ohms, they don't heat up nearly as much and stop the hyper flash as well. Regular bulb resistance is 10 ohm, and lower resistance makes more heat. Trickiest part turned or to be wrestling the flasher wires out of the looms to tap in the resistors.

Also, there's no way the dtrl uses the multi-level of the 57 bulb
(at least on my 2010). they would need 3 wires to the socket (or a ground in the housing) for that to work, and there's only one hot and one ground wire to the socket and the housing is plastic. The DTRL is the same as the signal, which makes it confusing why they need extra pins in the relay to run that system.

 

Was yours equipped with DRLs? If not I wonder if the ones that were, did have three wires hence the reason for the harness to delete DRL... food for thought.... Orrrrr they were using just the one filament but instead of turning it on for the turn signal, they were turning it off. Doesn't matter to me as I acquired 3157CK pigtails that have three wires and I will just pick up some switchbacks from TRS that are made for 3157CK

 

Mine's got DTRL's, but it just turns the front blinkers on steady for the DTRL, turn signal flashes the same light off/on at the one level (never uses the multi-brightness part of the 3157, but it's possible on the incandescent that the "high" level of 3157 is higher than the single level of the 3156).

Out of curiosity, why did you buy replacement pigtails in the same configuration as the factory sockets (CK config is stock, which is why standard-wired replacements will blow the fuse if you put them in)? If you're going to wire in aftermarket sockets, it seems like a better plan to put in "standard" sockets to make finding usable bulbs that much easier.

You may be taking on a big project to get the switchbacks working properly if all the wiring from the flasher relay to the socket has only 2 wires, there's only an on/off signal to the socket; there's no way at the bulb to know whether the "off" is due to the truck being shut down of if it's due to the cycle on the turn signal/hazard flasher. Switchbacks are designed to work with systems that already send a high/low/off signal set to the sockets, which the Tacoma (at least mine) isn't wired for in its guts.

If you have a non-DTRL truck, I've got a brand new never-used 8-pin LED relay I'd be willing to part with relatively cheap since I bought it online before checking the relay in my truck and it wasn't expensive enough to be worth navigating a mail-in return process (unless it happens to fit my other car, which is a 2004 Mazda but the relay is Denso and might be a fairly common part in Japanese makes).

 

Thank you for the offer, I stole one out of my brothers car since it is currently down getting turbo upgrades. -- I picked up the CK 3 wire sockets because they don't make the standard 3157 to lock into our housings. The design of the actual socket is specific to the CK I guess. the way TRS has the switchback setup is when white is receiving power, and then power is applied to yellow, the white will cycle off. The programming or logic if you will, is already built in to them.

I want the white of the bulb to be on with my outer parking lamps and to be the same color

 

Figured the switchback bulb worked that way, the tough part for you will be wiring in the 3-wire sockets since the truck only had two wires going there. There's no wire coming out of the flasher harness for just the dtrl as opposed to the turn signal, otherwise there'd already be a 3-wire socket installed and the current design with standard bulbs would be dim for the dtrl and bright for the turn signal.

The tough part will be that the flasher is sending "on" to the fronts for dtrl and the turn signal/hazard, I guess you'll need to wire the front flasher wire to the "white" pin on the switchback, then run a wire from the rear signal line to the "yellow" pin to get the switchback function to work the way I'm assuming you want. Not sure what that'll mean for the resistors you'll need to use, though. Should look slick if you can get it to work, though.

 

Figured the switchback bulb worked that way, the tough part for you will be wiring in the 3-wire sockets since the truck only had two wires going there. There's no wire coming out of the flasher harness for just the dtrl as opposed to the turn signal, otherwise there'd already be a 3-wire socket installed and the current design with standard bulbs would be dim for the dtrl and bright for the turn signal.

The tough part will be that the flasher is sending "on" to the fronts for dtrl and the turn signal/hazard, I guess you'll need to wire the front flasher wire to the "white" pin on the switchback, then run a wire from the rear signal line to the "yellow" pin to get the switchback function to work the way I'm assuming you want. Not sure what that'll mean for the resistors you'll need to use, though. Should look slick if you can get it to work, though.

 

I am actually just going to jump from the outer oarking lamps to the white side of the switchback. just for simplicity sake. I like wiring and don't mind doing it, however in this case I don't see the need to over complicate the process... When all completed, I will post pics and/or video if possible.