TRD supercharger

I'm checking it out now......where did you put the sensor? Did you just hook up the power and ground? Or all 4 wires? I see the blue(serial) and white(analog) are optional hookups.

 

My URD Y pipe came with an installed bung already. On the passenger side. Off the top of my head I think I connected everything, one of the wires you can use to tap into the dimmer switch, blue I think, but its really not that bright at night.

 

Yeah now that you say that I think my URD pipe had a bung too....I'll crawl under there tomorrow and double check.
For the main power wire....you want it connected to a source that has power all the time(as soon as you turn the ignition on) right?? Or is the main power wire just for the light?

My mechanical boost gauge I have powered to a fuse on one of my headlights so the light comes on only when I turn the headlights on. It always works though because of the vacuum hose.

 

Wait, I was thinking my speed hut gauge. I cant quite remember the AFR gauge. I usually fuse tap power from the rear window fuse. Its a 10 IIRC, that way if it pops I'm not killing anything vital.

 

If your URD Y pipe is new within the last year or so, and 4x4, (not sure on 2wd version) URD started adding the bung to all of them after much demand. Its on the passenger side. I just routed the sensor wire across the firewall in the engine bay and ran it down behind the heat shielding and in to the bung, keeping it away from hot stuff. Careful when reaching your hand in there, the heat shielding is thin and sharp as fuck.

 

Yup, sounds easy enough. I'll crawl underneath and check mine tomorrow. Looks like I'll be adding a gauge here soon at some point. Thanks and thanks to @Justus for the good info and advice.

 

meh, that Nabisco kid is an asshole

 

Lol.....you guys are alright

 

Rpm gauge? Nah. Don't need that shit either. Remove that fuel gauge to while you're at it. Really clean up the dash.


BTW, AEM has a new AFR gauge out. Reads leaner and richer than their last gauge, as well as shows AFR's in the hundredths instead of just tenths, like all others do.

Had Memario had a boost gauge at the time of his S/C install, he'd have known immediately that there was a problem with his bypass valve being stuck open.

Had another had one, he'd have known that he had a vacuum leak at a well known TRD boost port.

With age and heat cycles, OEM vacuum lines degrade and crack. Then they leak. Then they cause idle, driving, and misfire issues.

Gauges aren't once and done. They give you realtime data of engine functions. Once you know the reference points for what your gauges monitor, it becomes quick and easy to spot a problem or potential problem.

Although....there is that saying that ignorance is bliss......

 

Lol, I got it man thanks.

 

Alright so again guys thanks for the advice. I completely see why the afr guage is highly recommended. I crawled under to double check my y-pipe.....no extra bung. My plan is once I get the gauge to have a bung welded in in the collector of the y just before the connection to the catback. I found another thread that where a member did it in that spot. Also, in his pic he has the bung welded at a slightly downward angle and not straight into the collector. To let any possible condensation build up drip off the sensor and not let it sit there potentially damaging it.
@VolcomTacoma did you fuse tap your power behind the coin tray or under the hood in the main fuse box?

 

Behind the coin tray.

 

Sweet...thanks

 

IIRC This one is the one I normally use because it something non-critical. Either windshield fluid or window regulator. Can't quite remember off the top of my head.

 

Not my pic BTW. That connector would be sealed lol.

 

Cool......lol....am I looking at the actual fuse you taped or the one circled....or either one?

 

The one I circled is the one I usually tap for ignition switch power. That one is power to windshield wipers...so if they stop working and gauges stop, check your fuses

 

Cool thanks again

 

Have the bung welded in a position between 10 o'clock - 2 o'clock. I am not sure jf that is what you were saying, that is why I am clarifying.