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Assembled a fuse box and some switches

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by orangeglo, Oct 28, 2015.

  1. Oct 30, 2015 at 3:16 AM
    #21
    Timbo's Customs

    Timbo's Customs Well-Known Member

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    1997 t4r has super duty axles, 5.13s locked front and rear. 3 link front with 14" kings. Rear 63s.
    I'm getting a overhead switch panel in a week or so. I'll be using 2 right off the bat but the other 4 I'm not sure haha
     
  2. Oct 30, 2015 at 3:28 PM
    #22
    InTheRough

    InTheRough Well-Known Member

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  3. Oct 30, 2015 at 3:39 PM
    #23
    Up2NoGood

    Up2NoGood Well-Known Member

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    That's a good deal. I have that exact pair and they are great. Klein had a good runner up but I went with these as they can handle a bit more or a range in wire gauges.
     
  4. Oct 30, 2015 at 3:51 PM
    #24
    InTheRough

    InTheRough Well-Known Member

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    I like the liferime warrantee aspect. I know ill be stripping and crinping plenty of wires while building the box so I know it will justify the $15.
    I've been searching for the 11" c-clamps for the discount but none apply.:annoyed: :bananadead:
     
  5. Oct 30, 2015 at 3:58 PM
    #25
    Up2NoGood

    Up2NoGood Well-Known Member

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    My only complaint is the backstop is completely plastic and works on resistance alone to adjust it. It is something I can see wearing down the road and then no longer being tight... Hasn't been an issue at all, but I could see it being the reason you may need to replace it many years later. Maybe they sell just that backstop piece separate though, not sure.
     
  6. Oct 30, 2015 at 4:08 PM
    #26
    orangeglo

    orangeglo [OP] ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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    I went with the Klein's since the wire cutter looked better. It also has a knob to lock down the backstop. The stripping mechanism looks identical so I'm sure they strip the same as the Irwins. And man can they strip some wires! I love using these things. If I had a criticism of them it's that it doesn't leave a very clean edge on the insulation like the old style strippers. I've learned to get used to it.
     
  7. Oct 30, 2015 at 4:12 PM
    #27
    Up2NoGood

    Up2NoGood Well-Known Member

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    That's true they don't make a perfectly clean cut, although not a messy cut either by any means. A very fair trade off on how much quicker and easier they make stripping wires though.
     
  8. Nov 2, 2015 at 10:51 PM
    #28
    orangeglo

    orangeglo [OP] ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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    Well everything is in. Been testing, aiming lights, re-aiming and had to replace my battery, but it is all in. I'll get some pictures of the final install tomorrow.

    My parasitic draw is about 50-60 mA which should be fine. I did drain my battery a couple times doing various upgrades and installs over the last year. I think it was just too much for my poor battery. I just replaced it with a Odyssey 34R PC1500. Everything is working great and my Baja Designs lights are bright as hell.

    Note: The headlights picture is brighter than is should be and the off roads light picture is darker than it should be due to auto ISO on my phone. I'll take some better pictures this weekend and try and capture how good these baja designs lights are.

    Headlights
    [​IMG]

    Baja Designs Squadron Pro Pair Driving + OnX6 20" Driving Combo
    [​IMG]

    I think my main bar could come down ever so slightly and I think I can aim my squadron pro's out away from center a little bit. It was hard to find a dark place to test them out without blinding a bunch of people.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2015
  9. Nov 8, 2015 at 10:48 AM
    #29
    InTheRough

    InTheRough Well-Known Member

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    I was still waiting on my parts before but now I have them and can ask this question.

    By building the box like what had been discussing (pictured below) then one row of fuses is to protect the power (to the relay or just the fused circuit) and one row of fuses is just to create a contact for the grounding bus bar, is that correct? Is it necessary to fuse the ground?

    RFRM_zpswar4brl9_665b5a688f0f551c35022e7eea9e23d66c8dd17c.jpg


    What I am attempting to do is have both bus bars powered, one constant and one with the ignition. All of the grounds will run to an additional bus bar.

    For example, this way allows me to run my fridge at all times but my seat warmers won't stay on unless the truck's ignition is on.

    RFRMsplit_zpsg3jdqfhq_41dc50819c275f3290431ee914cb940e0c3879d6.jpg

    Top left will be constantly available relays.
    Bottom left will be constant fused.
    Bottom right will be ignition powered relays.
    Top right will be ignition powered fuses.
    I did it this way so that I can group the relays and fuses with their associated power (ignition or constant)
    20151107_171918_zpsmlqcctc0_de35d9e90832e52e944bc783f4cc5111cf195a11.jpg

    I have already ordered the Solenoid to trigger the power with the ignition:
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CEBXRS
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2015
  10. Nov 9, 2015 at 11:58 AM
    #30
    orangeglo

    orangeglo [OP] ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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    Correct. I don't believe it is necessary to fuse the ground as well.
     
  11. Nov 30, 2015 at 3:25 AM
    #31
    Jystr

    Jystr IG: TW_Jystr

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    See build thread
    @orangeglo What panel did you use for your sunglass modification?
     
  12. Dec 1, 2015 at 12:45 PM
    #32
    orangeglo

    orangeglo [OP] ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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    Jystr[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Dec 1, 2015 at 1:03 PM
    #33
    TacoIII

    TacoIII Mr. Boombastic

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    3" OME 886 coils, ARB bumper warn M8000, Lightforce 240's and 255/85 16 KM2, Redline hood struts,arb twin air compressor, 4.88's, Tepui kukenam, Pelfreybilt bed rack and rear high clearance with swing out, and custom offroad bodywork
    NICE!!!!
     

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