my initial thoughts on DEH-80Prs

i recently redid some things with my stereo to avoid an external dsp, so i ended up with the pioneer deh80prs. bought off jet.com with coupon code for 192 shipped. the order is fulfilled by SKAR audio.

im running it off deck power in the standard mode.
front speakers are polk 6.5 components and dayton rs75 mid range.
stock rear speakers.

HPF set at 80hz on a 12db slope.
ran the auto eq and time alignment and comparing the before and after is outstanding. ive yet to manually tweak.everything as i have a pair of

$48 jbl p660c JBL stage 8602 360W max (120W RMS) 6" x 8" 4 ohms stage series 2-way coaxial car audio speakers

jbl p660c components to install and a single alpine type r 8. once i do that ill.be switching to network mode and going fully active.

i have never had a time aligned stereo so this was quite a suprise as to how far off the sound is off when ran off the deck straight out of the box.

it is fairly easy to figure out thr functions if you have had hands on experiences with a pioneer radio within the last 5 years. i imagine once i go active it will be a bit more involved but still fairly easy.

even mounted up at an angle in the dash i can see the display without any major glare.

i hooked it up to the steering wheel.controls with an axxcess swc. it auto detects the vehicle and radio so it was a breeze to set up.

i also have yet to notice any audible distortion at max volume, i do have some hearing loss above 17k hz so theres that. but once i get ready to hook it up to an amp ill put it on an oscilloscope and see if i can go full tilt without clipping.

pretty excited to tweak this deck more once the full stereo is installed.

 

Got one in my access cab and don't care what snobs say. It's an excellent deck to use and has enough tuning features to get your feet wet and beyond in getting the sound right. I'm currently running it in standard mode and using a Helix dsp as I'm moving towards a more complex setup. Still, I have no plans to change out the 80prs. It stays until it dies.

 

the 80prs is a good head unit to get one's feet wet with time alignment. I have this, and will in the far future get a dedicated dsp unit for far more control. there are limitations with the t/a on this unit, but only for those that seek more control. otherwise, it is a very good value(5v preouts, 1 band eq per channel, t/a, usb, etc).

 

The only bad thing I can say about it is limited xovers points that hinder installs like in the Taco where a lower point would be of use when using a small wideband driver in the upper doors. Some will try to account by using the -6db slope but it would be better to stick with -24db and just a lower xover point period. Other than that, get a tweet that can go down to 2khz and the deck will help to raise the stage over the dash quite well.

 

I came across that hurdle myself, and changed from network mode to standard mode, and am using the crossovers on my jl xd600/6, since they are at 500hz(hp/lp). 4 channels bridged into 2 channels for the 8's in the doors, and the other 2 channels for the widebanders. both crossed at 500hz. the controls difference between network and standard mode are a little different, and I dont think you lose any function from switching from either mode.

in short, the best way to utilize a lower crossover point, is to have an amplifier that can cross as low as you want it, and use standard mode on the 80prs.

 

I've had my 80PRS for almost three years now and love it. Sure it isn't a flashy double-din, but it gets the job done and sounds very clean. The double edged sword with a DSP in the HU is that I never stop tweaking. Analysis paralysis.

 

Tweaking in what way?

 

Eq, t/a, crossovers, etc. Different songs will influence you to do that.

 

While doing an initial tune there may be some constant fiddling, but once set on some reference songs or pink noise (preferred) there should be no reason to adjust anything major. Different recordings should be accepted as such and if anything, a quick touch to an EQ preset or sub level adjustment (something that can be easily returned back to the original reference tune) should be all that is needed. Xovers, tweet/ mid levels, & time alignment shouldn't change from song to song.

 

I find myself messing around with sub time alignment more than anything. Certain songs play different bass frequencies, so I'm really trying to find the setting that gives me the best across my whole music collection. Deep impact while blending well with the midbass. There's also residual road noise that can cause frequency cancellations, which can affect the vehicle off, sitting in the garage tune that you initially came up with.

Read around on some of the car audio forums and you will see a lot of experienced guys constantly messing around with their tunes. The more I listen to music, the more I hear things that are either too much or too little. It's never going to be a one-and-done thing.

 

At some point the fiddling stops for the most part as you learn to accept they way the recording differs. The only time I adjust is on recordings that are at the extreme ends of being tolerable which includes 90's bass music where 20-50hz needs dialing back or maybe adding some bass to 70's music where the bass is too lean.

A sub remote on the bass amp may help, but a shelf filter is usually better as the problem isn't the overall level, it's certain frequencies that need attention. The 80prs is equipped with a couple of customizable eq presets along with a preset button to help. Only issue is it only cycles in one direction.

 

Finally got everything hooked up and switched to network mode.
Hooked up the PPI Phantom 900.5 amp and

$48 JBL P660c JBL Stage 8602 360W Max (120W RMS) 6" x 8" 4 ohms Stage Series 2-Way Coaxial Car Audio Speakers

JBL P660c 6.5 components this afternoon.
mids are crossed over at 100hz HPF - 3.15k hz LPF, and the tweeters from 3.15k hz on up.

everything is on a 12db slope although i plan to test other slope settings and see how it sounds although i am super happy with initial results

I've used the Auto TA/EQ again for a base setting until i can build a box for the 8" and then ill spend the time fine tuning.

 

With all -24db slopes you'll have less phase issues. The 900.5 sub channel crossover isn't defeatable but turn it all the way up out of the way and let the headunit cross where desired.

 

ah very good to know about the sub channel, likely would have driven me nuts trying to figure it out ha.

 

an issue came up today, hopefully someone with more experience than myself can get me on the right path,

drove into work this morning, stereo sounded fantastic. Left for lunch and after 5 minutes of driving i started to hear the tweeter "flutter" (sounds like a piece of notebook paper being shook if only holding one side) then the sound completely stopped, once i got back to work i quickly pulled the door pannel to check speaker connections. crimp fittings are tight, secure, and fully grab the wire and not the wire coating, no loose wires at the speaker connection either.

went back into work and when i left for the day everything started working as it should and then stopped working again.

i checked my connections at the amp and there are no loose wires, no frayed wires, nothing pinched/stripped or touching something it shouldnt be.

Any thought on what i should check next?


the speakers have new wire ran from the amp to the doors, 16gauge.
the 80prs internal amp is turned off.
Gains on the amp are barely turned up as the H/U has 5v preouts

 

Swap channels on the rca to the tweeters (make sure the radio is off first). If it changes sides then it's upstream of the amp. If it stays the same side, then it's downstream.... possibly amp. To confirm, swap channels at amp to see if the fluttering switches, etc

 

easy enough. i will give that a try shortly.

worst case its the amp?

 

I have the same deck and love it

 

As long as any of it is under warranty I wouldn't sweat it. Mass produced products are going to have some failures every now and then. But failure rates are something different altogether, and as far as I know both are great products with low failure rates.

 

well now im even more confused, left to get breakfast, no tweeter on the right side, swapped RCAs when i got home, no issue with left or right side. swapped it back go the correct sides and everythinh works as it should.

i did not notice a loose RCA at the amp but thats the only thing i could think of that would cause an intermitent signal. i will check behind the radio if the iasue comes up again.


but on a good note, i adjusted the slope on a few channels and it sounds much better.

i do have a generic ported box which actually works very well for the type r 8 i have, on the way so i ahould have a complete soundstage from.30hz on up.