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Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by MJonaGS32, Sep 20, 2013.

  1. Jan 14, 2016 at 9:25 PM
    #741
    abarber11

    abarber11 Well-Known Member

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    Mine is behind the rear seat in a 05+ DC and I used 1/0. Its probably a similar length run as you'd have in your Xcab so I think you could use the same.
     
    Digiratus likes this.
  2. Jan 14, 2016 at 9:33 PM
    #742
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    Thanks man. I need to get a more exact measurement of the run but I was guesstimating 10-12 feet. And a 200-250 amp capacity for that run. Does that sound reasonable?
     
  3. Jan 14, 2016 at 9:39 PM
    #743
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 Not A Well-Known Member

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    ill be working on relocating some engine bay stuffs for a dual battery setup tomorrow.
     
    gibby11 and Iggy like this.
  4. Jan 14, 2016 at 10:06 PM
    #744
    abarber11

    abarber11 Well-Known Member

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    Sounds reasonable. I've been running mine for a couple years with no problems. I used 2 types of 1/0 cable - A CCA rated for 250 amps at 20', and a OFC rated for 375 amps at 20'. Im using 200 amp fuses for everything as I have the 130 amp alternator and its been plenty fine for me. If you really think you need closer to that 250ish amps I'd either use true 1/0 welding cable or make sure that the 1/0 you get is OFC and youll be golden. (OFC = oxygen free copper vs. CCA = copper clad aluminum). I used the CCA cable for my 10ish foot run through the cab and to the battery. Its been on since late 2013 and Ive had zero problems with noticeable voltage drops or heat. I do not have a huge stereo, winch, or upgraded high amp alternator tho so I don't require a 200-250 amp capacity, although the wire I used is rated to handle it. The typical complaints about CCA cable Ive read have come from guys with super high wattage stereos and they complain that the CCA cable can get pretty (too) hot.
     
    udy2554 and Digiratus like this.
  5. Jan 14, 2016 at 10:13 PM
    #745
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    Thanks, this information is very helpful.
     
  6. Jan 14, 2016 at 10:15 PM
    #746
    abarber11

    abarber11 Well-Known Member

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    Not a problem at all. Just paying it forward.
     
    udy2554 likes this.
  7. Jan 14, 2016 at 10:37 PM
    #747
    gibby11

    gibby11 Well-Known Member

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    Excited to see this
     
  8. Jan 15, 2016 at 6:12 PM
    #748
    nova423

    nova423 Well-Known Member

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    I can't wait until I have my version of this. I have been researching these threads at work instead of working for MONTHS now. I'm a Jedi Knight Off Roading Electrical Powerhouse, spearheading my own low ball version of the Resistance in my DCLB in Kylo Ren murder runs.

    May the force be with me ...
     
  9. Jan 15, 2016 at 6:13 PM
    #749
    nova423

    nova423 Well-Known Member

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    I want to put one battery in rear seat storage back.
     
  10. Jan 15, 2016 at 10:25 PM
    #750
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 Not A Well-Known Member

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  11. Jan 16, 2016 at 9:28 AM
    #751
    CascadesTacoma

    CascadesTacoma Well-Known Member

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    I use 2 gauge cable to go all the way to near the tailgate. I have my isolating solenoid in the engine bay with a 150amp fuse between it and the main battery.
     
    Digiratus likes this.
  12. Jan 16, 2016 at 1:50 PM
    #752
    InTheRough

    InTheRough Well-Known Member

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    I don't think I ever got around to posting my "finished" battery setup. It was a pain in the ass trying to get all the wires stuffed in the back and I still need to add the actually lights to the rock light circuit but I have been running it for about a month now with no major issues.

    20160116_134115_83797a9e543a6a0372b50d6d9881cdb11d77417f.jpg
     
    Naveronski, harryn, Chux and 2 others like this.
  13. Jan 16, 2016 at 2:30 PM
    #753
    TacoSTIG

    TacoSTIG Untamed Member

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    Looks great Kolt, I'm a tad jealous of the space you DC guys have.
     
  14. Jan 16, 2016 at 2:31 PM
    #754
    CascadesTacoma

    CascadesTacoma Well-Known Member

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    InTheRough, that is a really clean setup. I'm considering relocating my second battery to the same spot.
     
  15. Jan 16, 2016 at 4:30 PM
    #755
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 Not A Well-Known Member

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    This is legit.

    Any write-ups?
     
  16. Jan 16, 2016 at 5:35 PM
    #756
    AaronArf

    AaronArf Well-Known Member

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    Trying to dig through all these posts...Has anyone relocated batteries from under the hood to behind the rear seat leaving no battery up front? I want/need to get the weight off the inner fenders entirely. Ditching my super heavy single 31M.

    Trying to find a stud kit that can handle high amps, any recommendations? I want to keep it simple, hook all the factory wires and my accessories to the stud and run to the batteries in the cab with a BlueSea ACR and some 0/1 gauge wire.

    The winch has me nervous with a 500amp draw under load.
     
  17. Jan 16, 2016 at 5:38 PM
    #757
    ckeene9

    ckeene9 Well-Known Member

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    Run a direct line from the winch solenoid to the batteries.
     
  18. Jan 16, 2016 at 5:40 PM
    #758
    AaronArf

    AaronArf Well-Known Member

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    That is a possibility. I guess I will have to find switch rated high enough to kill it and mount it under the hood. I liked being able to just pull the power to it quickly as a fail safe. Also don't want to be running a chit ton of 1 gauge wire into the cab.
     
  19. Jan 17, 2016 at 12:34 AM
    #759
    InTheRough

    InTheRough Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys. I do agree that this spot is an excellent use of space.

    This was the first/best build that I saw someone else do that fit into my needs so I used most of their ideas:
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/out/?url=http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/98688-2nd-gen-Toyota-Tacoma-Camp-Sportsmen-Family-build?p=1311190#post1311190
    Stage4complete4_zps2f2d86af_36ea0d973d938c9c3445218eef20a70ec3ac8ac6.jpg

    Unfortunately, I do not have any write-ups but I do have quite a few progression pictures; although I do not have many pictures of the product nearing the finished stages because I was crunched for time.

    As I have said before, I am not an electrical expert but I don't mind answering any questions that anyone has.

    This is basically how I designed the RFRM. This allowed me to use a PAC-200 solenoid to control one side with the ignition (seat warmers, compressors, CB, etc) and the other side constant (lights, fridge, additional mods, etc). There is a fuse between each major junction and a bluesea switch to kill the whole RFRM just in case.
    RFRMsplit_zpsg3jdqfhq_c4085ce9878c2edc7d27ac18968709e4222c3912.jpg
    wiring_1_193f10fbbd8eac32143c0592191224caf21d9ea0.jpg


    The link to the Expedition Portal thread does relocate the battery to behind the seat.
     
  20. Jan 17, 2016 at 4:47 PM
    #760
    AaronArf

    AaronArf Well-Known Member

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    Wire sizes.

    How does 1/0 OFC sound for my starting/house battery connection to my manual Blue Sea isolator switch + the main battery run from the back of the cab to the distribution terminal under the hood where the factory wires will be connected? Should be a large enough cable for the amp drop up on the run to the engine bay and the factory charging system right? Will also put a 300amp inline fuse after the isolator switch.

    Planning on a dedicated 4/0 OFC from the house battery to the winch isolator switch located under the hood (Blue sea HD 600 amp on/off) since the max draw is ~500amps.

    Trying to not overkill but want simple, safe and reliable. Open to suggestions!!
     

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