How to Install a Viper 5704 Alarm/ Remote Start

Did you get it working, if not check that the hood is closed, if it is check that the ground on/ going to the hood pin switch is connected.

 

Got it working. On my 2012 I believe the reference manual has two errors or at least my truck did. All wiring from reference manual was correct but the two wires from the door lock and unlock had to be switched to the alarm arm and disarm pins from same connector. Then all worked correctly. I don't know if anyone else had this issue.

 

Actually I think it pins 6 and 7 on the 10 pin kick panel connector. I believe the only colors different were the door lock and unlock. I notice the reference manual is not for my year of truck. But all wires were good except those two.

 

Ok good deal. Thanks for posting, may help someone else.

 

Thanks to this topic, I am almost ready to install a

$150 4806v 2-Way LED Remote Start System

4806v into my 2014 DCSB. Can someone please help with the following 4 wires? Not finding clear guidance after almost breaking google. THANKS!

H2/1: (-) 200mA IGNITION 2 / FLEX OUTPUT --> I don't think this is needed, but wanted to double check.
H2/4: (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT --> Again, don't think it's needed, please verify.
H2/14: (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT --> Truck has factory alarm, but it seems like these may plug into the same wires that the door locks do.
H2/24: (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT --> Truck has factory alarm, but it seems like these may plug into the same wires that the door locks do.

Once I get these correct, I'll post up my reference guide I compiled for the 2014 Taco. THANKS!!

 

Well on my 2012 installing a 5706V. H2/14 and H2/24 are not used. What was different is my door lock and unlock wire colors from reference manual on first post. So I also have a factory alarm and if you wire the door lock and unlock wires, I would not wire the alarm arm and disarm wires. I got the remote start to work wiring the alarm and disarm wires but the doors would not unlock. So I took it to a professional installer and he verified that my arm and disarm wires needed to be disconnected. basically the three pin harness wires blue and green to my lock and unlock.

 

H2/1 and H2/4 not used.

 

Perfect, all 4 not used. Thank you!

 

Glad to report a near perfect install on a 2014. I say near perfect because I noticed that when I unlock/lock the dash lights flash as if I turned on the parking lights. When I remote start they are on as well.

This is the H1/5 wire tied into the (+) Parking Light for the taco. Is this normal, or should only the outside lights flash as well as the signal indicators inside.

Thanks everyone for this thread, I referenced it more times that I can count.

 

I believe that is normal. When I remote start mine the parking lights come on as well but turn off when you isert ignition key once inside

 

Just making sure it is ok to have all the dash lights flash (including the gauges) every single time I unlock/lock and that it is normal. thanks for the quick reply!

 

Yea. Mine does same thing.

 

Mine is the same. You will also notice that the inside AND outside parking lights on the headlights are on with remote start.

 

Awesome guys, glad to hear I'm not going crazy!

 

What I hated was placing the remote start module and alarm. There is not much room under dash so I had to cram it up under steering wheel and between bottom plastic dash. Really tight fit and good thing I soldered all my connections

 

I just had the headlight issue bite me in the ass yesterday. Remote started my truck for lunch break, then ended up eating lunch in the building. Remote start turned off but the headlights stayed on cuz the stalk was turned to "headlights on". Killed my battery. Gonna find time to wire that fix properly, its in this thread a few pages back. I thought i had done that mod properly when i installed, but obviously i didnt!

 

For anyone interested, I began having creaking issues in the front. At first, I thought it might be my wheel bearings or sway bar end links. It turns out that it was the hood pin I installed for my viper alarm. The spring inside the plunger started to get rusty I guess. I sprayed some wd40 down the plunger and all the creaking noises went away. Something to keep in mind if you drive where they salt roads during the winter.

 

I know there hasn't been any activity in this thread for a while, but hopefully some of you are still sub'd! I'm tackling a 5806V install in my 2012 Tacoma and have gone through a lot of reference information. The only thing I'm not really sure about is the Ignition 1 vs Ignition 2 and Starter 1 vs Starter 2.

The wiring schematic I found on modifiedlife.com shows the Ignition 1 wire to be Blue/Yellow and Ignition 2 to be Black/Red. This is the opposite as the reference sheet in the OP (but different year trucks). Should I use the ignition 2 wire (Black/Red) or the Blue/Yellow (which I think is ignition 1)?

The Starter 1 and Starter 2 are switched between OP reference sheet and my wiring schematic as well.

 

I went with Black/Red = Ign 1 and B/Y = Ign2. Follow your schematic.

 

Started this over the last 2 days; 5806V in a 2012 doublecab. Still not finished, but getting closer.

I wired the 3 diodes to the H2 Green wire and connected the one for the drivers door in the bundle behind the fuse panel. I have not hooked up the (H2 Green) passenger or rear door wires yet as the colours and locations have changed... I will figure it out with multi meter just haven't finished that yet. Also have not connected the Green/Black on H2 harness. EDIT: found some info on pg 13 of this thread that should help me finish this off!

I spent a long time trying to figure out why I couldn't enter programming mode to set it to AUTO. After a lot of frustration I grounded the green wire in the H2 harness and it worked fine. It seems there's an issue with the brain registering a "door open"; I thought it would work fine with just the one door wire connected from the bundle behind the fuse box but no luck. Might just be an issue because I haven't finished the door wires yet, but also seems like the diodes may cause an issue there?

I used a PKALL bypass. Programmed as per instructions for my vehicle and sequence of flashing lights indicated it worked correctly.

Arm/Disarm work. Now that I have the brain set for my Auto transmission the remote start button gets the truck cranking, but it wont fire. It tries 3 times and gives up. if i put the key in the ignition and turn to the "on" position, remote start works perfectly. I can even turn the key to "off" and remove the key and engine stays running until I hit the remote start button again to turn it off.

This seems like a problem with the bypass? anyone had a similar issue or a suggestion for what I could try?