MOOG Tie-Rod Ends vs OEM

One thing I noticed from the days of the Jeep and using Moog pretty exclusively was that the boots are nefarious for cracking, if you choose to run any Moog TRE due yourself the favor and find some matching Energy Suspension boots. They don't necessarily provide as tight of a seal which means you're using that grease gun more often, but they certainly don't split open as often! Otherwise go OEM...

 

Sorry just realized it is your truck, grinding your TRE is pretty much risking death or anything else that could happen if a TRE breaks while driving. The shop that did your install are idiots, they should have never done it with those wheels. Every DB kit clearly states the minimum wheel size and backspacing g requirements for that exact reason. Your only options are new wheels or to add some wheel spacers to get the rim off of the TRE.

 

Yikes, I couldn't tell that TRE had been ground down. I agree, that sounds like a bad idea. Maybe that's why they're supposed to be installed pointing up from the factory?

 

yeah i told the guy at the shop that the kit recommends 18" wheels and he said id be fine with 17s. it was a little too close for comfort so i ground em down a smidge. i dont believe the amount of grinding i did will affect the integrity of the tie rod ends. but i agree 100% those guys at that shop are idiots. i had the biggest hassle with them. i had parts falling off while driving down the road (one of them was my driveshaft). horrible work. i had to go through all of their work at my house and make quite a few adjustments

 

Well mine split Worst thing I've bought for my truck.

 

Well dang...hopefully mine last a while.

 

Okay so what's the purpose of the Zerk fitting, a one time use?

 

Had the same exact thought. The alignment shop I went to sells Moog (looked like they sold a lot of it and not much of other brands), so I asked the guy and he said the same thing. You're not supposed to pump until grease comes out, it's not a really high movement part so you don't really need to change out the grease.

Still seems odd to me to have the zerk fitting on it. Maybe push the old grease out through the zerk fitting and then pump new grease in, so you can change out the grease without breaking any seals.

 

Grease like anything else will break down and need to be replaced. Parts that have no grease fittings are supposed to last a lifetime, thats lifetime of that part not the vehicle. They have pass/fail specs on TRE's as to when its worn. By vehicle code or Title 13 and TRW specs its 1/8" up and down movement when moved by hand. Dont use pliers and compress the spring, that doesnt count.
A zerk has a check ball in it so grease wont come out. I said you could force the grease out where it was leaking from to relieve it or take an awl and push the check ball in and force the grease out that way. Better yet remove the zerk and bleed.

 

I know how a grease Zerk works and what they are used for and they sure were not designed to take grease out. IMO I still think
these moog tie rods have a designed flaw.

 

No, but the hole they're threaded into would let grease out

I don't know personally if they're any good or not.
I know they were a cheaper alternative.
I know that you can put grease in them and you can't in the stockers.
I know I wasn't super impressed with the stockers.

Only time will tell, for me, if I made a good decision or not.

 

Moog isn't what it used to be. Like many parts manufacturers they are producing most of their parts overseas now. Still better than no-name junk like mevotech but nowhere near OE. But I wouldn't hesitate to use 555 or tri-5 as they are sometimes called brand tie rods if they are out there. They were an OE supplier to Toyota and I've used a few of their ties rod kits on FJ40's in the past. Never an issue.

 

Regarding alignment, the only thing that will change is the toe. You can measure the distance from the flat part of the spindle closest to the tie rod end bolt to the flat surface the inner screws into. If you can measure that accurately and adjust it back to that you will be fine. Other wise setting toe is not that hard with a few framing squares, a buddy and a tape measurer.

Regarding MOOG tie rods, I have no idea who manufacturers the inners that are sold in their MOOG box, according to a MOOG Applications Engineer, they are not made by MOOG. I have both on mine and yes the boot sucks. Was thinking of trying to find a silicone replacement.

Have a NIB rack that I should install, just haven't gotten around to it.

 

Only time will tell? I already put in the time on these I installed mine 1.5-2 yrs ago and the the boots have ripped twice since. Good
thing they have lifetime warranty though I'm gonna try just one more time and if the boots tear a third time I'm giving up on these tie-rods. i'll get something better with no zerks for sure.

 

I didn't even know they had a lifetime warranty. who did you buy them from and how did you get the warranty honored?

 

Hey could everyone stop talking about parts. Checked my truck after I posted my last post and now I have Moog Inners and I guess you could say Moog Outers.

 

Has anyone tried these?

$30 Energy Suspension Tie Rod Dust Boot - 9.13107R

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Brakes-S...Jrl66Hu6aSF5JzmdElxE6MVU7VrLkWwpzchoCGcfw_wcB

 

+1, I'd like to know as well. Moog's website seems to point to a 2 year warranty.

 

I've been running Moog outer TRE for 25K+ miles, keep them greased...not leaking or torn. I think you guys are just over filling the boots. 10lbs of shit in a 5lb sack....never good.

 

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/4468/greasing-chassis-parts-helps-them-last-longer