New BakFlip and RevolverX2 Models for 2016'S NOW AVAILABLE for Pre-Order! Ship date is 1/15/16

Alright, my first install step-by-step / review.

Had to put the truck in the garage for a few hours to thaw it out, it's cold outside and I'm fragile.

I cleaned all the bed rails pre install and started with the instructions.

1. You have to take the header off in the bed up by the cab to install two foam seals, pretty straight forward, seals fit like a glove.



2. Next step it tells you to put the foam seal across the front. I put it on, but I was apprehensive, it just didn't look right. Anyway, once I got the cover on in the later steps, the seal just doesn't make any sense. So I took it off. I'm certain I did the right thing.

3. Remove your existing tie down track systems on both sides, 5 torx # 30 bolts on each side, and I just sat the tracks on top of the wheel well.

4. Here is where I did a little checking on things because of all the previous posts about the rails being "kicked up" at the rear of the truck. So a big THANK YOU to all who posted about this issue. I know many spoke with BAK about this, and some studied it and came up with a fix, but I couldn't really understand what y'all were saying until I hand fit the rail. The rail kicks up at the back because the seal that contours around the edge of the box runs straight down the BAK rail. A quick look at the box of your truck, and you'll see that the box jogs in at the very back, approximately 8-10" from the tailgate. If the seal on the BAK rail followed this, it would be beautiful flush, however because the seal goes straight instead of following the edge of the box, it ends up sandwiched in between the top of the box and the BAK rail. There are 2 photos below, the first is of the BAK rail the way it came, the second is of the way it should be. To relocate, I'd suggest hand fitting the rail again, take note of where the bed edge jogs, and use your trusty thumb marker to mark the spot on the rail that the seal needs to be moved. Gently peel back the seal (do it warm, works way better), and relocate as per the second picture below.

Pic # 1 - wrong seal location


Pic # 2 - right seal location



This isn't exact science, but hand fit it again after you relocate the seal. If it is sticking up still, then the seal is probably still a little too sandwiched between the BAK rail and the top of the box.

I'm skipping standard install procedure here to get to the important parts, but just a heads up, prior to the step below, you need to slide the new aluminum mounting brackets into the rails.

5. Of note prior to this step, BAK provides new long torx bolts for the aluminum bracket install. A quick comparison between the BAK bolts and the Toyota OEM bolts and you'll see the bolt heads are quite a bit larger on the Toyota bolts. I reused them, because I am neurotic and you never know when a war will break out on the back of your truck. I started with the middle bolt on the rail, just loosely thread it in, then work outwards on both sides. Once all the bolts are loosely in, head to the back of the bed where you know the problem area is. Step one, make sure to push the rail all the way toward the front of the truck. I forgot this step on the first rail, doesn't seem like a big deal, but A) when you go to reinstall your track tie down system the bolt holes won't line up (that's how I knew), and B) It would almost certainly cause an ingress point for water later. Step two, jam a knee down on top of the rail to hold it down as best as possible and tighten that back bolt. If you've done this right, you should have a pretty flush mount. Repeat this procedure for each bolt right up to the front. Then do the other side.



6. Assuming your rails flush mounted, you can now continue on with the install, per BAK's instructions. Here's the finished product, keeping all the damn snow out. There is definitely a little jimmying to be done at the end to get it nice and square, but the youtube video and the instructions provided walk you through it really well.





Happy installing. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

I want to know when the CS model will be coming out.

 

Ok, so I installed my X2 tonight. Took about three hours, but I am VERY impressed with the final product!

First, I'll share the photos go installing the rubber spacers, which nicely fit the gaps in the header of the bed (before and after):



Next, what it looks like when you have the header weatherstrip, spacer, and rail all meeting up at the front. The overlap of the header strip allows for a seal under the front part off the rail.



Once the rails are on, you can see that there is still a significant gap in the body between the bed and the body. This has nothing to do with the cover, it is part of the body that should be filled with foam or something. Just and FYI when putting this together. It's hard to photograph, but you can see the light (the little blue spot).



This is what the rail should look like: flat and flush with the side of the bed:



I got confused looking for actual holes to put the mounting bolts through, they actually slide into the track of the cover:



Here is what the latches should look like from the inside when they properly engage. You have to crawl inside the bed to see it:



Here are how the straps that hold it work:



Finally, the finished product:



The fit is excellent. All that is left to do is blow-dry the seams so that they soften and conform nicely to the rest of the bed.

 

If you had to remove it, how easy would that be. More specifically just the cover portion, leaving the rails of course.

 

the CS model will not be made for the 3rd gens

 

It looks like you have some foam or weather striping that is flat and sits at the edge of the rails between the plastic bed rail caps and the rail. Can you show a better pic of that? And did it come like that.? My rails only came with the little rubber seals on the inside edge of the rail

 

I'll get a better pic...but yes, indeed, that is there on both rails to seal the outside. Are you sure you didn't accidentally fold them under while placing the rails? I did that to part of one by accident.

 

I'll answer your question if he won't. Most all of these types of covers have threaded knobs on each side for quick removal of the cover from the rail.

 

Nope definitely didn't do that. The seals I had were just little wedges with a small radius really. Looks like back is send all kinds of different stuff out. I will have to request new seals and redo the install inspring. A pic would be great so I can use it to request the seals. Appreciate it

 

So far as I know, mine are correct. The install shows them in the diagram in the instructions. Hopefully you got instructions...I didn't! Had to download them and print them out. Everyone has all kinds of random stuff missing.

 

My Revolver X2 did not come with these type of knobs, nor do I see any reference to them in the instructions. It would take a wrench or ratchet to remove but could be taken off in about 5 minutes (cover only)

 

I don't think that is referring to t he X2.

 

Has anyone done tri folding covers from bak yet that are not defective?

 

@Sam B has not had any issues. Post #207 on this thread.

 

I just put the F1 on my truck yesterday with no issues.

 

Here are two pics illustrating the stripping you are talking about:

 

Just installed BakFlip Fibermaxx. Arrived 2/9/16 . Installed out of the box with no modifications and it fits perfectly. I guess all the problems with the rail have been sorted

 

No, it's a $900 made in China cover

 

Looks a tad short at the tailgate, any info on this? I also ordered a fibermax

 

I installed my new Bakflip HD today and had no issues. Fits perfectly. Had all the right parts. Even had some sort of instructions that came with it. Not sure what that was about.