DIY Bolt-On Frame Plates for Sliders

I've been meaning to put up all the info (and cut files) for the backing plates. It's just another thing on the list! I need to do a lot of work on this thread. More file types, more directions, etc.

 

Thanks for the tips guys I appreciate it. 1BC I'll try using your method. It makes sense. I'll be sure to get some pics up once I have them fitted.
Thanks again

 

Hello I'm new here to Tacomaworld. Love all the posts on this DIY slider project. What thickness metal are you guys going with for these frame plate cut outs?

 

Drawing says 3/16"

 

I used 3/16" for the frame plate. I based that decision on what some other slider manufacturers were using. 1/8" should work for the rest of your slider unless you are going to mercilessly beat the crap out of them and have a very heavy truck.

 

I also used 3/16".

I had the truck in at the dealership and was able to do a look under the truck to make sure everything was staying in place, no loose bolts and the like. Even after getting hit everything is in good shape.
-3 vehicle accident. Truck and wife's car were parked, steel trailer power slid sideways around a curve, totaled wife's car. Truck has only cosmetic scratches and bent bedside and twisted bumper. Sliders took the impact and saved the truck.

Some thing to note:
The dealer tech told me that they have to use the frame for lifting but because the plate was so thick and stable they used the slider plate. It has to do with liability and insurance....just in case vehicles fall off a lift. Everyone at the dealership was impressed with the sliders and they are an offroad dealership that is linked in with some of the major vendors on here.

So when in doubt use 3/16". It may cost pennies more and be a bit harder to bend but it is easier to get a good weld as it can take more heat and it is a bit stronger.
Also pay attention to your design as my sliders paint was removed but the tube stayed in good shape. All in all it looks better then most trail damage one might expect from an easy trail. My outer tube bent a steel 'I' beam of the trailer.

 

I just uploaded the full set of DCLB frame plate slider documents to match the AC and DCSB files. Check the first post as it's all been updated! If anyone has any issues downloading or otherwise with these new files, let me know and I'll try to get it fixed ASAP.

Still don't have a RCLB truck to make files for. If you have one or know someone who has one, I'd still like to get those files done! And, anyone that wants to check the new 3rd Gen truck frames against these files. Please do and report back!

I'll do my best to keep plugging away at this and get as many details sorted as possible.

 

I already checked the 2016 frame.

I believe you could do it with some finesse but really you should do it a bit different.

There is an extra piece an 'X' welded between the front part of the frame and the rear. It is located at the front 2 bolts for the slider frame plate. On previous generations the frame is just welded with a butt weld. The new frame has a butt weld and a fillet weld. Not sure why they included the 'X'? Possibly for increased frame rigidity. With this being the case you will need to bend the front section of the frame plate 1/16"-1/8" ish offset. (either two 90* bends or an 'S' shape bend). Alternatively you could use filler washers between the frame plate and the frame (no thanks). The last option is to have two different frame plate bends. One for the front and one for the rear. The bottom plate can still run the entire length so it would just be missing some steel in the middle section. Again not as strong but it may work. If you have good fabrication skills I would butt weld an extra piece of steel from the front and fillet weld it to the rear. This would probably be the easiest as I do not know a bender that can bend an 'S' at a 90* to a flat part of steel.

If I have time I will try to draw it up so you can understand.

There is also an extra attachment mounted inside the frame on the drivers side. This uses some of the bolt locations. The solution is to supply your own longer bolts, or to move the device. The tech was not sure what it was for but we came to the conclusion that it is related to either the fuel or break lines. Neither of which I really want to mess with.

 

Interesting. I understand what you're saying about how the frame is made. I won't be making 3rd gen frame plate files but I thought it would be interesting to see how close they were.

Thanks for the explanation!

 

Ok now for the question.....

I am adding top filler plates. I am not sure if I should go with 1/8" or 1/16" checkered aluminium. Cost difference is zero to me. With how small the gap between the outer and mid rail is I am not sure if I need the strength from 1/8". However, I would be very disappointed if I get the 1/16" and find it too flimsy. Some things I believe should be made stronger then needed (Frame plates, Gussets...). Other items I just don't see the need.

For reference, I can only find one other vendor listing filler plate thickness at 1/8". Most don't list at all.

 

Id say it depends on how you are attaching them. Are the filler plates going to sit on top of the tubing and be riveted every few inches? Show us a pic of what you're doing. It might help. Aside from that, as light as that material will be as a percentage of overall truck weight, going thicker seems like the safe bet if you're worried about the buckling, oil canning or any other cosmetic issues.

 

Not sure on the attachment yet. I am looking into options. I will probably be using some UHMW between the dissimilar metals to prevent any galvanic corrosion.

I like the look of the plates installed just below the top of the tube. Although this will hold water and snow so I am still thinking it over. If I go this route I require some holes to let the snow out.
The easiest way to install is just to cover the top in one piece and call it a day. Does not look the greatest though.

For attachment I have 2 main ideas.
1: weld tabs -1a, weld triangular tabs in the corners. This will further give structural integrity (Not needed) Then rivet aluminium to the sliders tabs
-1b, weld small tab along the sides of the mid and outer rail to use for attaching. Or placing one or two thin strips joining the outer and mid rail.
Again riveting to the strip.

2: Have the top plate sit over the top of the whole structure and use a square U-Bolt or clip and attach the aluminium to the support posts (Frame plate to mid rail). This option has the bolts hidden from sight and this may not bug me on a daily basis. This option also gives the rocker panels the best protection from debris as I am covering more of the slider. Down side is more mud and gunk can get stuck as there is more area for it to hide. Also snow will build up unless I drill some holes as my sliders are flat. Another downside is that over time a gap may form between the outer slide rail and the aluminium as I have no attachment at the edge.

I am not really a fan of riveting. I don't really like the look and removal is a pain. Also I do not have a rivet gun. It might look good though, I just can not see it together in my head though.

As for strength. The outer rail will take all the force of lifting or impact. The top filler plate is only to prevent a foot going through. Up until now everyone has just been using the outer rail with no problems for entering and exiting the vehicle. I would just hate for someone to accidentally put a foot through and twist while on vacation and now we have an impromptu trip to the ER. This is just a safety thing.

Now if and when these hit production I will just use steel as I can get it welded. It looks good and is easy. BUT the diamond pattern aluminium is a bit of a theme on my truck and I prefer to keep things looking similar.

 

I would weld on the tabs/strips and have the aluminum sit flush with the top of the tubing instead of on top of the tubing. That would look the best. Then you could use small bolts and nuts to fasten the plate to the tabs/strips. Clean and easy to remove. I also don't care for riveting.

 

hmmm. If only I could weld aluminium to steel.

I will have a look at some flat top or carriage bolts. If I can find some that are not tooo obtrusive I may go this route.

Grrrr now I have to sand off the paint and weld again.


I just thought of another idea.
If I bend the aluminium 90* at the edges and have it flush with the rails, I can either drill a hole in the mid rail or attach a tab and bolt so that no bolts are showing from the top. If I can make it small enough it will not cause any harm when sliding over obstacles. I may look into this some more.

The alum can only be bent 90* at the mid rail. The outer rail will have to conform to the tube. I may have a solution to this but my mind is still planning.

 

1 Bored Clerk, thank you for the work you been doing! Also to the guys helping with the other models!! Was just getting ready to design/build my own and this takes most the work out of it!!! Can't wait to get started now!
Any other projects coming up?

 

Thanks! I'm glad people are using these files. The help I got designing the DCLB plates was awesome!

I'm currently working on a rear bumper. As with most of my projects, it's going slow. I think it's coming along nicely though! I have a build thread on here for that. No files to download but you may enjoy the updates.

Be sure to post your project up here to keep the flow going! Don't want this thread to shrivel up and die!

 

I should be able to make most of this at no cost. I'm a machinist working in a fab/machine shop with access to laser/brake/saw/lathe/mill/welders. Finally decided to get off my lazy ass and start making things for the truck. front/rear bumpers, sliders, pack rack.

 

Excellent! I'm always interested in fab projects. Make threads!

 

Going back a while with this. I was just thinking about this topic. You could use

$8 3M VHB 100x200mm~ (4" X8") Double Sided Foam Adhesive Sheet Tape 5952 Automotive Mounting Industrial Grade Very High Bond 5952 (1 Sheets 100x200mm)

3M VHB (very high bond tape). They make several different versions and that stuff sticks like crazy! Test it on the bond you want to make just as you want to make it. It doesn't stick to everything but if you get the right tape for the job, prep each surface properly, and apply with pressure, it will be on there forever.

 

Good idea. My idea did not pan out as there was no way to attach it properly. I almost washed the idea but I will look into the tape.