Chandler's Battleship of Doom

How much of the rear did you take off? Fender and flare wise?

 

0 that's why I broke rear flares, but my rubbing was only the bottom lip so when I go to trim my new flares I'll probably just cut the bottom of the flare so the tire can tuck in nicely, probably cut .5-1 on the beside because I only have very minimal rubbing

 

@Sacrifice Truck started just fine this morning, battery read 12.6v after the batter siding all night I'm sure that's an accurate reading. Well this is good for now, last thing I want is for her to deal with a dead battery while I'm at work

 

Good deal. Glad its worry free.

Ill be interested when you start looking into dual battery. Im beginning to wonder with a winch/compressor if itll just kill the battery faster.

 

Mine has been fine the last few months you don't use the winch all that often... hopefully. Just keep your truck running while using the compressor too

 

The compressor wouldn't kill it unless it keeps going. But the winch you have to be careful of when under load, have the engine on and keep the revs up to help it out.

 

Yup exactly

 

That's exactly what my plan was. I wanted to keep all additional electrical stuff separate and isolated. The only link is the Blue Sea ML-ACR wich carges the second battery. But the neat thing is that I a situation where I've lent out my second battery to get someone home off the trail, I can still run all the lights, comms, and fridge by manually linking/latching the switch. As for the monitor, my solar charger can tell you the state of the second battery if needed. Plus, I got that dual battery monitor from ebay which will eventually get installed somewhere.

 

Exactly what I wanted to hear. Ill have to do some more research to get my head wrapped everything, gotta be 10% smarter than what I'm doing.

 

This is a partial layout I made up a while back of what I had planned on doing. I'll get around to updating it one of these days. As you can see, the only thing drawing from the starter battery is the winch.

When I get it updated with the solar setup I'll let you know.

 

Thats awesome, that doesn't make it seem so bad. What program did you use to make the diagram?

 

Haha. Microsoft Paint. The basic program on all computers.

 

Hey dude I just read back about 10 pages, did you mention something once about the holes on the Pelfrey front being to small for D shackles? I'm having that problem, not sore if I wanna break the powder coat and drill it out or grind down the pin of the shackle.. Any help thanx.

 

Hmm I don't have that issue, what D rings are you using? I was referring to ARB rings working with a Factor55 thimble. The ARB rings fit on my bumper, most of my D rings are smittybilt ones that work just fine. Maybe you have the wrong size D ring? have you tried it on your rear bumper

 

Is yours steel or aluminum? My buddy had the same issue with his new aluminum front pelfreybilt bumper.

 

@Chux I replied to your post in the Pelfreybilt thread. Don't mess with the bumper. Just take a little PC off of the shackle pin. I had the same issue and it's the thick PC on the pin.

 

His is steel and mine is aluminum, and powder from Pelfreybilt for both of ours. Maybe a new powdercoater? since mine is older

Hmm thats weird, what D rings are you using?

 

They are Smittybilt D-rings. It could be the PC on the bumper too but I would rather not mess with the finish on that. Mine had such a tight tolerance, I just needed to slightly grind down the pin and it fit. The rear was fine with the same brand D-rings. Maybe Pelfreybilt makes a slightly smaller hole on the front bumpers????

 

Yeah thats weird because both smittybilt and arb fit just fine on mine, I've never checked to see if their way a gap difference between front and rear. It must be the powdercoat laid on a little thick, I had issues with some stuff on my rear because the shop that I had do the powder made it too thick in the latch area

 

Xactly