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Bypass tuning

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by flesh2, Mar 10, 2016.

  1. Mar 10, 2016 at 6:51 PM
    #1
    flesh2

    flesh2 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    need help adjusting my triple bypass tubes. All my shocks were valved and tubes preset by downsouth Motorsports. Fronts are set at -LC-5 SC-5 R-6
    Rear is set at LC-5 SC-5 R-10
    Front bottoms out once I get into bigger stuff and rear bounces around as if it needs more weight back there. Do I close the longer compression tube to help with bottoming out?
     
  2. Mar 11, 2016 at 12:08 PM
    #2
    flesh2

    flesh2 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  3. Mar 11, 2016 at 12:11 PM
    #3
    T4RFTMFW

    T4RFTMFW Well-Known Member

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  4. Mar 11, 2016 at 3:14 PM
    #4
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Too little information.
    What front suspension? LT or MT? What stroke shock? What brand shock? What's valving in the coilover? What valving in front and rear bypasses? What rear suspension?

    Words only go so far. Felt perception is normally much different than visible performance. Unless you have a video of what's going on its pretty hard to help.

    With that, if the rear is bucking, normally an indication of packing. Open up the rebound tube all the way up and then close a half turn. I can't help with the comp tubes unless you tell me what brand.

    Same for the front. You probably need to close comp tube(s) but depends on brand.
     
    lilgerber likes this.
  5. Mar 11, 2016 at 4:09 PM
    #5
    flesh2

    flesh2 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    @jberry813

    It's an 08 Tacoma DCB long bed with American Motorsports front race kit with engine cage.Dmz spring under in the rear with bedsaver cage. 12" Fox triple bypass in the front with 12" King coilover. 16" fox triple bypass in the rear. Here's what's in there for valving. First tag in pic is rear bypass, and front bypass tubes are set at LC-5, SC-7, R-6. Rear bounces around as if it's to light and needs weight to help keep it down.

    image.jpg
     
  6. Mar 11, 2016 at 5:38 PM
    #6
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Much better!
    On the front, close the short comp tube to about 3/4 closed or more and close it more if u still bottom out.

    I would open up the rear comp tubes but I don't think it will help much without a revalve. My personal opinion is you have too much valving on both comp and rebound in the rear or too little weight. Obviously this is just based on tags and no video
     
  7. Mar 11, 2016 at 5:58 PM
    #7
    flesh2

    flesh2 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I messed with the shorter tube earlier and it made it stiffer on the street. Someone told me fox are backwards where the longer tube controls the bottoming out zone. The rear was just revalved from 3/2/70 to 2/2/70. I had them speed up the rebound and it helped but still not perfect. I tried adding a 50lb weight but it didn't make a difference. Ill add another 50lbs and see what it does. I'll get some video as well and post it to see what you think
     
  8. Mar 11, 2016 at 11:21 PM
    #8
    Anthony250

    Anthony250 Ex Fabricator

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    Yes on the Fox bypasses, the longer compression bypass tube controls the Bottoming harder zone hits. On all bypasses the tube highest up towards the top of the shock controls the bottoming zone. Do you have anyweight in the rear at all? Fox shocks due to design always usually need more valving or they tend to be soft. For the front make sure you have the King coilover at 150psi and All fox shocks at 200psi. If you said the front is too soft which they look like they are have your front bypasses at roughly rebound nearly closed or 3/4 closed, short tube 1/2 to 3/4 closed and long tube 3/4 closed try this, and for the rear try to keep a spare back there at least, and nearly full open rebound tube, short tube 1/2 way closed and long tube for bottoming start at 1/2 closed . Put zip ties on the shafts go test the shocks, see where they are ending up at. If your hitting big stuff and zip tie is ending up towards the bottom of the shaft, then slowly start turning in "closing" the long tube. And if the slow to mid speed driving will be your short tubes.
     
  9. Mar 12, 2016 at 6:18 AM
    #9
    flesh2

    flesh2 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    @Anthony250 Perfect thanks! I'll try that and see what it does. I like the zip tie trick great idea lol
     
  10. Mar 12, 2016 at 7:45 AM
    #10
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Ah damn. I forgot the fox bypass layout was different. Like Anthony said, the tube that goes all the way to the top of the shock
     

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