What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Yes sir!

 

When I did the reverse swap, as @Madjik_Man mentioned, I remember doing a little bit of grille-shaving to clear a radiator hose or something. I'd have to look at my truck the next time I'm back from work to check though.

How is the radiator support in the way?

 

rallied the fuck out of my tacoma today!

 

Sorry


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Drossbach Hi-temp Split Loom 3/8" X 25' Section
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I dont know about the rest of you, but I am wondering why in this day and age of cheap electronics and cheap LED lights someone hasnt made some of those Crees function as a steerable/controllable spotlight. Put those puppys on the ditch light brackets and it would be the bomb!

 

I dont see why not, it looks cheaper then the quoted Duralast at Autozone (8.37 -> 19.79 for Differential Carrier Bearing) by Timken or National.

 

Question regarding the retention of side/marker/whatever next to the headlights.

On my 2002, the right is a little loose.
When I removed the grill and did the headlights (and should have done the @#$@#$ alignment) a friend was helping.
I didnt pay attention when reassembling, he was helping and holding the loose driver side light in as I put the grille back in.
He said the driver/loose side was missing a little blue piece.

Now, I noticed this:

I assume that clip in is referring to the blue piece. Is that part of the side marker light (order an entire one from RockAuto) or can I get just that little piece for some non-extorionate price?

 

Get this instead of split loom:

$13 Techflex PTN0.50BK25 Flexo PET General Purpose 1/2" Braided Cable Sleeve, Black - 25 Foot (Original Version)

http://www.amazon.com/Techflex-PTN0...UTF8&qid=1460622019&sr=8-9&keywords=wire+loom

 

You know I saw that stuff.
But I figured it wasnt as heat resistant.

Mind you, in a Tacoma L4 engine bay that probably isnt as important as opposed to a tighter engine bay with a turbo in it.

But that would be just the ticket for purposes where heat wasnt as important...

I'll try some. I noticed from the comments that it appears to shrink a bit, if cutting seal ends by burning, use heat shrink on the ends and use the chinese finger toy technique when running lines.

 

The piece I'm talking about is actually called center bearing...



I've seen a lot of people calling it carrier bearing so I figured that's what he's talking about.

 

That's it. Yup it's just to get me by a couple of months. Or at least until I get my rear suspension done then I won't need it anymore.

 

It's not, my current swapped is hacked together from PO and I want to swap radiator supports so the headlights and grille just bolt and clip right in. If I hit a hill, ledge, bump too hard right now my grille falls into my bumper

 

"Young Brett" and I put in my winch, which was a real pain in the ass. If you have a relentless bumper, put your winch in first! Wish I would have done that!

 

I better change that plug wire before I change the injector. Thanks for your response. Might have just saved me a bunch of time and money. RTR.

 

Whered you put the solenoid?

 

Ran out of light last night. Was thinking of putting it in the empty space on the passenger side right up against the fire wall. If not there, then in the bumper on the passenger side!

 

Hmmm I was thinking in the bumper too. Will the solenoid reach the firewall without extending the wires?

 

Have any of you guys change the ignition switch to a push button start? My ignition has been locking up. Meaning sometimes the key binds inside. So I figure since I'm going to have to replace it I might as well upgrade it with a kill switch. Any info will be appreciated.

 

I have done it to my Tacoma, due to an intermittant 'no start' situation. I wanted the option of taking the ignition switch out of the equation. Truck will start/crank either way, with the key, or the button (but of course, the key would still have to be in the 'ignition' position for the 'start' button to work).

Not sure what you mean by 'upgrade it with a kill switch'.