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Complete new stereo question

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by lo1dakota, May 15, 2016.

  1. May 15, 2016 at 8:38 PM
    #1
    lo1dakota

    lo1dakota [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I've done the search but keep coming up with conflicting info

    Here's the deal. I want to install all the parts I've been collecting.

    Nav unit
    6-1/2 components
    6-1/2 two ways
    Sub
    Sub amp
    Highs amp


    My truck has the JBL stereo.
    Since I'll be using an amp for my highs what's the best way to wire the speakers? Do I just need to tie into the speaker wires after the factory amp? Is there a better way? And which wiring harness should I buy? I've heard they are simple one that essentially give you power and remote since possibly won't be using the factory wiring at the stereo location. So audiophiles what should should I do and purchase?
     
  2. May 16, 2016 at 2:20 AM
    #2
    nizzmont

    nizzmont Well-Known Member

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    Subbed for my own build
     
  3. May 16, 2016 at 10:18 AM
    #3
    gkomo

    gkomo Well-Known Member

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    I think with the JBL system it gets a little more complicated. But, I think the first step (since you have both amps already) is ditch the stock amp. I don't think it will work amplifying the signal using the JBL stock amp, then amplifying it again with your sub/highs amp. Sounds like you'll be completely bypassing the stock sound system, except the head unit.
     
  4. May 16, 2016 at 11:07 AM
    #4
    lo1dakota

    lo1dakota [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That's what I had figured I've seen in other builds where you can bypass the factory amp and utilize the wiring
     
  5. May 16, 2016 at 5:33 PM
    #5
    MattLikesTacos

    MattLikesTacos Well-Known Member

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  6. May 21, 2016 at 9:21 AM
    #6
    timothom

    timothom Well-Known Member

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    Might want to think about a 5-channel amp Some people don't bother with speakers in the rear doors, and just run fronts and subs. I'm pretty sure if your doing an amp, your going to be pulling all the speaker wire yourself and utilizing not much of the stock wiring. This is what I did for my build and it worked out well. The only stock wireing I used in my build was for the head unit, and it worked well, I have no noise at all from using the factory ground for it. I just went with too large a gauge on the speaker wires, wish I would have went smaller.

    As far as Nav units go, I'd go with either Alpine or Pioneer. I have a Clarion and I'd advise against going with them. The Kenwoods seem decent too.

    Good luck and post pics :)
     
  7. May 21, 2016 at 9:31 AM
    #7
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    You can actually just run a 4 channel amp which will then give you the ability to run a compact one instead of those big and bulky junks. Utilize the factory wiring by using the PAC TATO.

    Go with a Pioneer AVIC series or Alpine. Avoid Kenwood as they get a lot of complaints which claim they crap out over the course of a year or two. Use the AXXESS AWSC-1 to keep your steering wheel controls. Additionally, you can wire all of these necessary control boxes using powers and grounds directly to the stereo and everything will work as designed. The only thing you may get is some speaker noise while the engine is on, I still have to install a filter myself, as stock uses a independent harness connector to eliminate this themselves.

    As far as wiring your speakers goes, ditch the rear door ones. They are utterly useless and invest in some awesome coaxials and tweeters, or you can do a very expensive component setup. The sound imaging is ruined if you run rear coaxials or woofers on the rear doors but regardless just make sure you have a sub hooked up. I am running the stock sub on mine and it still thumps. I am using a 4 channel compact amp to keep it all hidden still and have the the front speakers wired regularly to the amp but at the door I am tied in parallel to the speakers to power the tweeters using crossovers for them.

    I know all this because I just went through this recently. If you need any help wiring it. I can help you or give you tips. What year truck are you?
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2016
  8. May 21, 2016 at 5:44 PM
    #8
    lo1dakota

    lo1dakota [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info.

    It's an 07 Dc.
     
  9. Oct 4, 2016 at 7:37 PM
    #9
    lo1dakota

    lo1dakota [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Been a while here.

    My understanding is that you typically want nothing to do with a factory Amp when installing a new system. I'll be using a JL 300/4 for the Highs and 300/1 for the sub.

    the Pac tato says it's for retaining the factory amp.
     
  10. Oct 4, 2016 at 8:32 PM
    #10
    MattLikesTacos

    MattLikesTacos Well-Known Member

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    PAC audio makes awesome products that's what we prefer to use where I work especially if you have steering wheel controls you don't have to get extra module it does it all in one
     
  11. Oct 4, 2016 at 9:08 PM
    #11
    lo1dakota

    lo1dakota [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I've used them before. For sure nice stuff. I'll use them for the SWI. They don't seem to have harnesses for anything else related to aftermarket stereos in my year
     
  12. Oct 5, 2016 at 12:08 AM
    #12
    12TRDTacoma

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    No. It is simply retaining the wiring in place that allows power ground and digital turn on signal for the factory amp. If you wire in a totally new amp and stereo combo you are good to go with it. I know because I have mine setup this way and everything works flawlessly.
     
  13. Oct 9, 2016 at 3:59 PM
    #13
    lo1dakota

    lo1dakota [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I guess I'm not following. Why turn on the factory amp if you are using a new amp for the highs?
     

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