PCV valve replacement

I changed mine out ata bout 100k miles. The old one barely rattled. I sprayed some WD-40 on it before I put the ratchet on. Waited like 30 mins and it came off no problem. Otherwise it would be a 10 min job max. Cheap, preventive maintenance.

 

Looks like this used to be a nice, detailed DIY write-up, but now all the pics are gone off the original post?

 

I hear ya Madtown Taco. All the original pics in this thread no longer load. However, another good PCV write up can be found at the link below:

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/...Engine-PCV-Valve-Replacement-Guide/index.html

 

I had the oil changed on my 09, the mechanic was telling me that there was condensation getting in the oil cap and fill tube. Said the head gasket was going bad. Talked to few other mechanics and they recommended changing the valve first. Gonna try it today. Not a lot local parts houses carry the part

 

The condensation under the oil fill cap is normal on the 4.0 liter V6. Your mechanic is wrong.

 

thats what mine looked like a few weeks ago, nothing to be concerned about ive been told

 

Yep, you guys probably make a lot of short drives? Wipe it out and take a longer drive and then check it.

 

What does the oil in the crankcase look like?

If it looks like that you do have a problem.

 

Yeah a little under the cap is not a problem but that is concerning. As far as a write up for the pcv, it's about as easy as it gets to change. Unhook one hose and unscrew. Replace.

 

Hook up a scan tool and take it for a spin. Watch the coolant temp. It should run between 186-190 on a normal day without the a/c running. During a hot day it may get to 195 but I've never seen it get above 200 degrees. Does yours overheat at all? I highly recommend getting a Bluedriver or something equivalent that gives a digital readout of the coolant temp. It will also allow you to save real time data and send it to a mechanic. Even if you aren't experiencing any issues it's good to have a baseline. Just my opinion. Good luck.

 

I went out and took a picture just now, that other picture is from about one month ago. It isn't nearly as bad, but still water mixing with oil at the cap there. My drive to work is ~5 minutes, and about once or twice a week I drive for 15+ minutes. Did an oil analysis about 6 months ago and no water came up in oil, oil also looks good when it comes out. I don't think its something to be too concerned about.

 

That'll do it. Longer drive I would say is 30+mins.

 

There was no discoloration in the crankcase oil. Mine was not near what it shows above. I changed the valve just because mileage was 110K. That thing was a pain to get out. Tiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight.

 

Just changed mine, wish I would have known it was tapered threads!

 

Need to do mine. Guess not part of Toyota's major service at 30k.

Any tips?

 

OH! I got one: I had to use a breaker bar to loosen mine. You should do what any sound person would do and disconnect the battery prior to doing any work under the hood. Ended up touching the positive battery terminal with the breaker bar, shorting the battery, and having to replace it. Also scared the shit out of myself. Other than that it's super easy. Just a little difficult to get the threads straight with the new valve. Don't worry that it gets progressively more difficult to thread - it's the tapers

 

Hmm, automotive bolts aren't tapered. Think you may have cross threaded.

 

That's a pretty general statement. Thought I was cross-threaded as well, after spending some time on it I'm convinced it's not

 

hobiesan had the same issue

 

It isn't a bolt. I think the PCV has tapered threads that screw into the valve cover on the 4.0 liter 1GR engine.