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Upper and lower control arms help!

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Falkor1, Jun 24, 2016.

  1. Jun 24, 2016 at 8:21 PM
    #1
    Falkor1

    Falkor1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    As I was replacing my upper and lower ball joints I noticed I need to replace the bushings on my upper and lower control arms. How difficult is the job if I don't own any pneumatic tools? IMG_0580.jpg IMG_0579.jpg
     
  2. Jun 24, 2016 at 8:22 PM
    #2
    CodeSeven

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    cant be done without pneumatic tools. when I do control arm bushings, I use an air hammer to get the old ones out, and a small press to put the new ones in.
     
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  3. Jun 24, 2016 at 8:23 PM
    #3
    2stroketrush

    2stroketrush Well-Known Member

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    not hard if you have hand tools
     
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  4. Jun 24, 2016 at 8:24 PM
    #4
    Falkor1

    Falkor1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  5. Jun 24, 2016 at 10:24 PM
    #5
    NightProwler

    NightProwler Well-Known Member

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  6. Jun 25, 2016 at 3:44 AM
    #6
    NightProwler

    NightProwler Well-Known Member

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    There's this one too

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...arm-bushing-replacement.438442/#post-12714543

    But I'm not not sure about this method. I did the bottle jack method for my lowers. Just found a large socket that fit good for the sleeve, and pushed the whole bushing out in one shot. No heat was needed. The bottle jack is placed in between. Preload it, a LOT, take a hammer and give the outside of the control arm (where the sleeve is located) a good WHACK. And that bushing should literally shoot out. Make sure you're holding the jack while you smack it, or watch your toes, because the jack will fall out. Then you can use the c clamp ball joint tool to press in the new ones( or a proper socket or adapter of your own and hammer it in which is what I did, because that c clamp tool is way too precarious for my liking). Much easier this way. Of course this is for oem type replacements, such as moog, which is what I used. And would suggest using. Haven't researched into the poly ones, but I believe they are harder and do require the sleeve to be left in place while removing/burning out the rubber only. Plus I would assume that there's a chance that the poly would squeak. Not sure on that but seems like I read somewhere that someone said that, or had a concern regarding that, with polys. Unless they're somehow greasable...

    The moogs are fairly cheap and much easier to replace using the bottle jack method. And I figured the oem ones lasted me over 100k so they should be good for just as long. Polys are more durable and last longer. But again, I also think that I read somewhere, that someone had a concern about the fact that they were a harder material, and that extra stiffness might transfer more through the body/steerimg with bumps and whatnot, causing a noticeable stuffer ride. Versus oem type 'rubber' bushings being more "forgiving". No clue if that's a valid fact or even cause for concern, but it sounds like it makes sense.:notsure:

    Didn't watch all the videos front he above link, so I'm not sure what he used for bushings. And I'm Not sure if the upper control arms are any different as I replaced mine with camburgs and only did my lowers, but it should be the same. Just wanted to throw that out there about the bottle jack method (which there's a video in the thread I listed in previous post)Good luck.
     
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  7. Jun 25, 2016 at 5:35 PM
    #7
    CodeSeven

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    my only concerns there is, in #2 the guy has a torch and a bushing installer/extractor. i don't think the OP has those tools, or at least the installer/extractor, readily available. unless..... i know I rent one at my parts store, you can try any advance auto parts or carquest (preffered) and see if they rent out the tools. you usually just pay full price and get a full refund when youre done with it so long as you don't damage it.
     
  8. Jun 25, 2016 at 6:59 PM
    #8
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    I don't see what you're pointing at to make them look 'bad'.
     
  9. Jun 25, 2016 at 7:05 PM
    #9
    CodeSeven

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    i dont think he is. i think hes making sure we understand what he wants to do to get a clear idea of what hes up against.

    i'm honestly in the same boat as you OP, i gotta do all of it. but im just going to change the lower arms that include the bushings and the ball joints (ill do the uppers another time). mainly cause we don't have the time to take up a rack for however long it takes to swap out control arm bushings. if you were to have a shop do it, it would be cheaper to just buy a complete arm. if you don't have to worry about taking up a rack or space, just take the arms to a machine shop and have them swap out the bushings. thats like, 25 bucks per arm?
     
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  10. Jun 25, 2016 at 7:16 PM
    #10
    Falkor1

    Falkor1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    @cruxofthebisquit The upper control arms slides left and right, and the bottom is more preventative maintenance. The pictures do it no justice... Now that I look at them again, they remind me of a cheesy training video.
     
  11. Jun 25, 2016 at 8:05 PM
    #11
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    the sleeves prevent them from sliding. You'd be getting horrible tire wear if they're shot.
     
  12. Jun 25, 2016 at 9:35 PM
    #12
    NightProwler

    NightProwler Well-Known Member

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    Another thing too, is I think the steering rack needs to be removed. At least mine did. Unless I wasn't doing something right. Iirc the cam bolt couldn't be easily be accessed, or removed for that matter. I didn't fully remove the rack, just unbolted and swung it back out of the way with some zip ties, as the other power steering lines remained connected. If it's possible without doing that then Idk how, ha. But makes it way easier getting to the lower control arm bolts. Plus while you're at it you could change those rack bushings. I used poly for those.
     
  13. Jun 25, 2016 at 9:36 PM
    #13
    Falkor1

    Falkor1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  14. Jun 25, 2016 at 9:41 PM
    #14
    Falkor1

    Falkor1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    @NightProwler Thanks for all the tips. They will help out a lot. :) I ordered all OEM parts and when they get here Tuesday I'll post some pictures.
     
  15. Jun 25, 2016 at 9:45 PM
    #15
    Falkor1

    Falkor1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    @CodeSeven I think I'm going to take the control arms to a machine shop like you said. It will be worth it, and I'll know it's done right. Cheers! :cheers:
     
  16. Jun 26, 2016 at 3:16 PM
    #16
    cruxofthebisquit

    cruxofthebisquit Well-Known Member

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    oh.....yea that's weird. I've never seen that on even 40 year old bushings. I guess the rubber separated from the sleeve?
     
  17. Jun 26, 2016 at 7:46 PM
    #17
    Falkor1

    Falkor1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    @cruxofthebisquit Really? Maybe the previous owner replaced the bushings with aftermarket parts. I was researching after market ball joints and returned mine for OEM. Also got OEM upper and lower control arm bushings. I would hate to have to do this twice on this truck.
     
  18. Jun 26, 2016 at 7:52 PM
    #18
    CodeSeven

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    don't worry, i get these kinds of bushings in my machine shop every once in a while from newer vehicles. mostly dodges and fords.
     
  19. Jun 26, 2016 at 8:09 PM
    #19
    Falkor1

    Falkor1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    @CodeSeven Dodges a Fords, I've been to four pick-a-parts around where I live and all I see are Fords and Dodges. It's rare to see a Tacoma or any other Toyota truck to pick from.
     

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