*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

That polisher is next to useless. You will not be able to buff/polish anything with that. Don't ask how I know You need a new setup with some muscle. For starting cheap look at the DA from Harbor Freight or a Porter Cable.

 

Thanks

 

I just bought a Griots Garage 6 from Advanced Auto Parts for $104. Type in coupon code TRT30 to knock off $45 from the $149 price.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...3stdcrd/10333744-P?searchTerm=griots+garage+6

 

Try using a spray on detailer to start. That would be the easiest thing to use.

 

As Ace had mentioned... you want a DA polisher. Also you need to select the right type of machine for the chemicals you use to polish buff. For example...if you use a rotary buffer (dangerous for novice (burnt paint)), you can use 3M. If you use Meguiar's it's designed for DA polisher, but they have certain products that are designed for rotary, so you have to read up on it. HD speed I think is designed DA. I got the Harbor Freight DA because I plan to just use it on my car/truck so no need to get something fancy if I only use it 1 time a year or ever few years if I do it right with paint coat/sealant.

I went with the Meguiar's hook and loop system because I wanted MF pads to do the polishing. Lake and country I read is very good too. HD speed is an all in one. I do have it and no I haven't tried anything...been too busy other than to buy the items I want. I need to mod my DA polisher because it's a few things that will make it nice. I plan to use Meguiar's because I plan to use a polish first... see if I can remove the imperfections first...if that doesn't work..then I go more aggressive and go with rubbing compound.

Again with the chemical they are designed for certain speed and type of polisher. If you use a DA polisher chemical on a rotary, it'll be too hot and probably get spent quickly. If you use a rotary chemical on a DA polisher...it won't get hot enough to do it's job. I don't remember the numbers for the polish and rubbing compound on Meguiar, but I'm sure it'll be easy for you to figure out...if not ask I and will dig it up. There's a reason the companies design the chemical for certain application...I would follow that to get the results you want. Start with a DA polisher as that's what they use to teach novice in classes and it's hard to burn paint...but if you are careless or don't take time to study...I'm sure you can do something silly like the rest of us...so watch some videos and good luck.. I'm in the same boat. But I spent a bit of time with my detailer and he's generous with answering my questions even though I don't use him anymore...

 

So try the liquid dawn warm water solution to see if it'll strip the wax...test spot an area and make sure it's safe for you.

 

I let Meg's quick detailer dry on my passenger windows. Won't rub off. Any ideas? Dish soap ,clay bar ?

 

Try 0000 steel wool with some lubricant, thats how I get bugs off my windshield.

 

Does that 0000 wool require a polish afterwards? I never tried steel wool on glass on vehicles before. Only had steel wool for pots...not to be offensive. If it doesn't scratch... interesting solution.

 

No polish required. Just make sure it is #0000 steel wool. It is so fine it won't scratch the glass. I spray Invisible Glass on, use the 0000 steel wool all over the window and wipe dry. Don't try it on headlights though, it will scratch them. I use paper towels instead of MF so no steel gets imbedded into the MF towel.

 

Have you tried washing the windows? I would not use steel wool until I tried other options. The detail spray should come off without steel wool.

 

It's kinda hard on there

 

It's detail spray. Should come off with a microfiber towel. you should not have to use steel wool to remove it. I would call Meg's before using steel wool.

 

Are you really sure it's quick detailer? It's not some hard water stain that etch the glass? It doesn't make sense that a detailer spray would damage... unless the solution was mixed with faucet water instead of deionized water and hard water stuck on glass. It doesn't sound right what you say.

 

With what was said prior, was this done in the hot sun and left to dry for a while? If it is just detailing spray and nothing else, it should be able to be removed with IPA and distilled water without a problem.

 

Using compressed air is fine, the god father of buffing mr buff daddy who also helps Meguiars train new detailers and also helps them develop and test new products always uses compressed air or a microfiber towel.

Compressed air works great for cleaning pads

 

What's the best product to use for water spots on glass?

 

I don't park near sprinklers and try to avoid hard water so it's been a while...generally they say a vinegar solution is good for glass...stay away from windex. But I was curious and bar keeper's friend seem to have a good effect...but it's just from youtube...so take with a grain of salt.





I am going to get some and try on the shower doors and see if it works as the video show.

If you wash your truck every 2 weeks or so and avoid sprinklers...you can just use the waterless wash for the paint and glass and not have issues. I've been doing that for a few years now without issues or needing special glass cleaner.

 

okay, so my paint on my silver 2009 has been a work truck for years and I am looking to get the paint back to as good as possible, it is almost a flat color now. thanks!

 

What is your normal wash/paint maintenance routine now?