0W20 Oil?

5w20 and 5w30 are both readily available.
I wish Costco carried 0w20. Once a year they put M1 on sale (5w20, 5w30, and 10w30) for a $10 instant rebate... $26 out the door for a 6-pack (limit 3 per)... so I stop off at anywhere from 3-6 different Costcos and load up on what I'll need for both cars for the next year.

 

My .02,
I think the change over to only

$54 0w-20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0w-20 oil is another way that Toyota Engineering is controlling what is going into their engines in the aftermarket. Only a handful of companies make 0w-20 and it HAS to be a synthetic product. However 10w-30 is made by joe blow oil company is available at every gas station in the US. Toyota wants to up hold their reputation for reliability so they spec what they know doesn't come out of the ground.


Another good example of this notion is the switch to cartridge filters in the newer Toyota engines. My opinion is that this is Toyotas way of controlling the bypass valve. B/C I guarantee the bypass valve in a spin on Walmart FRAM is not near the quality of a Factory Toyota filter. So Toyota eliminated that variable from the equation. The filter media isn't all that different in any of the filters so Presto, cartridge filters for all. Bypass will be handled by a factory Toyota part regardless.

 

I suspect the move to cartridge filters is more from environmental concerns.
It is pretty rare that I see used filters sitting next to the oil can in the back of Autozone when I take my used oil in. Figure that most DIY oil changers are just pitching the filter because it is not clean and easy to bag up and take back. Likewise for repair facilities... easy to pitch a filter without a 2nd thought after draining the oil into the sump.

And it's not just Toyota... it's also BMW and other high-end vehicles where the owners are not commonly thought of as DIY.

But there certainly is a significant difference in filter media, with material type and assembly varying, and even some filters that have 3x the media area of some of the cheapest competitors.
As for the bypass valve, that can, and used to be, commonly a part of the oil filter base. It may still be present in some vehicles. That takes care of concerns that a filter's bypass valve may not open soon enough. Opening too early? Ya... but honestly, most modern bypass valves open within a few PSI of each other.
More of a concern is leaking bypass valves, such as the cheaper metal-on-metal "seals".

Personally, I like the idea of the cartridge. The tool provides a way to drain the housing prior to opening, so I would expect the job to be much cleaner than the current process of "crack the filter then yank your hand out of the way of the hot oil running down"

 

I think economics played a big part in the switch. If you look at the oil weight matrix posted earlier, you'll notice that 5W-20 or 0W-20 meets the specs for almost every Toyota model that's newer than 10 years old (cars older than this rarely see dealer service for routine maintenance). This means the dealers only have to keep a significant stock of two oil weights in their inventory to meet the requirements of 95% of the cars they will service.

The newer Toyota engines are designed use the lighter weight oils for increased efficiency. The 2.7L is a bit of relic relative to the engines in Toyota's mainstream lineup. I think the engineers determined that a 20 weight oil was still sufficient for the older 2.7L engine and signed off on switching the spec. Obviously one of the oil weights will provide the most longevity, but the extra longevity is statistically immaterial.

There are fuel economy benefits from switching to a thinner oil as well, but I don't think Toyota ever bumped up the EPA estimates.

 

As the former owner of an 07 Tundra w/the 5.7 and a 07 camry w/ the 3.5L, I can assure you the way Toyota does cartridge filters is a PIA. One major concern is you basically have to buy the Toyota tool to remove the filter housing...at a cost of about $20. Cleaner, not really, b/c the little plastic tool included with the filter kit never snaps in there correctly so you still get coated with oil. Give me a good ole spin on any day.

There's a thread floating around where the guy takes apart many different types of filters and compares them. The difference in the bypass valve assemblies is remarkable. The cheaper filters don't even compare to the quality assembly of the Toyota OEM. It convinced me to only run Toyota OEM filters and I'm a cheapa**. I'll have to look for the thread, but I did find this comparo. https://parts.olathetoyota.com/tacoma-oil-filter-comparison.html
Based on how bad filters and oil can be I still think Toyota is exercising QC in the aftermarket.


Update: Found the thread I was thinking about. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/te...-oil-filter-made-thailand-vs-competition.html

 

2005+ Factory Service Manual.

 

There's no question that OEM filters are well-made and are of high-capacity.

I lurk in bobistheoilguy.com, and have learned that filter media is important. There are 3 types - Synthetic, synthetic blend, and cellulose (paper), Supposedly the synthetic blend are the most effecient and effective at filtering out particles at a smaller micron level. The OEM are cellulose. The TRD filters are fully synthetic media, which are 2nd best.

I am going to stick with Mobil-1 synthetics, which are a blend.

 

Mobil-1, K&N, and TRD are all identical, made by Champion Labs, and all with the same plastic bypass valve.

 

These are quotes from their respective web sites. K&N is not very forthcoming about their media.
"Mobil 1 Extended Performance Oil Filters combine a mixture of synthetic micro fibers and natural fibers to produce a highly efficient oil filter."
"TRD oil filters use a 100% synthetic fiber filtration medium to provide the highest possible dirt removal efficiency with the lowest possible flow restriction"

I don't trust K&N filters. I have read that they emphasize low flow restriction at the expense of particle size. Suitable for racing, but not good for longterm engine wear.

 

That is the case for their air filters... they are crap for a daily driver (but racing doesn't pay their bills), but their oil filters are very good... if overpriced by 2x (likewise Mobil-1 and TRD).

 

You are overthinking it and missing something really important; the OPERATING temperature is the same, regardless of whether you are in the arctic, or a desert.

Yes, this engine started off as a 5w30, then was updated to 0w20. But note that the difference between 0w20 and 5w30 at operating temperature is very small. Also note that the 5w30 specified was a CONVENTIONAL oil, whereas the 0w20 is SYNTHETIC. Synthetic oil doesn't break down as much or as fast as conventional, so after a few hundred km of driving, the 5w30 degrades into w20 anyway, yet the 0w20 holds on.

 

I have some news for you guys, youre time traveling machine did not work. You're still in 2016, not 2013. Try again.

Also most modern 5w30 oils are shear stable.

 

Why don't we just do what guys have been doing for years and just shut up...

It's like us 2.7L guys have nothing better to do, we bitch about the lack of power, we bitch about the dipstick, we bitch about the oil viscosity, blah blah f***ing blah.

What does your oil cap say? Use that for all oil changes on that vehicle. Why? Because an engineer who is smarter than 90% of the people on here (myself included) told us to. Am I being naive? Maybe, but I'll tell you what EPA, CAFE, and POOPOO standards be damned, they aren't going to print an oil weight in your owners manual that is going to damage your engine. Period.

 

The Motorcraft FL-910s oil filter is the only one that O'Reilly Auto Parts carries that has a 2-year warranty... it is also one of the least expensive and highest-rated oil filters available for the 2TR-FE: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...model=Tacoma&vi=1433241&year=2006&make=Toyota

Just some interesting information I wanted to share. I don't think the Motorcraft filters are superior to any premium filters (M1, Bosch DP, P1, etc) but they are high quality filters. And you can get them on Amazon for less than $4 apiece (add-on item):

$9 Motorcraft - Oil Filter (FL910S)

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-FL-910S-Engine-Oil-Filter/dp/B004A2BCWY

 

How many times do you need to post the same thing?

 

How many different active threads are discussing the same thing?

Also I added Amazon information to this post compared to previous, so they are not the same thing.

How many times can you provide negative input?

 

And so you make people read both of them. <sarcasm>GREAT IDEA!!!</sarcasm>

 

So you know that all of the people reading one thread are also reading all the other related threads? I've never seen that kind of awareness before. Amazing!

I suspect that you have posted the same or similar information in two different threads, at some point in your life. If you have ever done this, I suggest you check your attitude now.

I am posting helpful information. That's what this site is for. It is not necessary to be negative all the time. Have a better day.

 

Its not helpful to choke things up with repetition of the same *USELESS* thing.

 

No way in hell am I using a Ford product on my Toyota.

I have had two Ford vehicles in my life, one had a motor that was on it's way out (metal in the oil to the point it was no longer wear and tear), and the other threw a rod...is that to say their oil filters are crap? No, but they sure as s**t can't make a decent car. Why would they not also screw up an oil filter?

I'd rather pay the extra buck and get an OEM filter.

OEM, Mobil 1, K&N, Royal Purple.....all excellent filters that I trust more than Motorcraft.