Fox 2.0 front and rear lift?

After considering 5100's, 6112/5160s, Toytec Ultimate and Toytec Boss I feel like the Fox 2.0 front coilovers and rear shocks are a better buy.

I want a 2.5" lift front and 2" lift rear. Its my daily driver so I want to have it comfortable on road, but be more capable off road on the weekends. Its an extended cab and I don't plan on adding armor or winches or shells on it in the near future. Rarely tow or haul anything heavy. Next set of tires probably be 33's, but 31's on now are 5-10k miles old.

From I put together a parts list that I wanted to include with these shocks: $825.00 $251.50 $26.00 $159.95 $37.98 $214.67 $55.50 $58.50 $29.99 $25.95 $12.35

Total: $1697.03

I'm not sure if I need the sway bar relocate kit but I figure its better to have on hand and not need than not have it and need it. As I want a full 2" in the rear I opted for 2 of the 1/2" spacers. Not sure how having both leaf spring shim and spacer will handle and am open to better ways since I don't want to put the overload leaf back in. Maybe there's a spacer and shim combo that gives both.

Thoughts?

 

I have same Fox Coilovers and rear shocks. I love them. They are great on the road. I never off road, so I can't comment on that.

I will say the spanner wrench won't work with those coilovers. These, you have to use a spring compressor, loosen the jam bolt, lubricate, and turn like hell. I haven't read many wrenches working well with the 2.0's, but maybe someone can chime in on it.

 

I like the list of parts you got. I have 2.5 Kings with resi's on mine. It might be a few bucks more, but I would encourage the 2.5 fox coils so you can adjust the top cap a little easier and they can take more loads/punishment offroad. I originally was going to get 2.0s as well until I realized the capability of the 2.5s. Whether you go with the 2.0 or 2.5s it should be a good set up!

Coot

 

You wont need the brake lines or CB drop with the 2" lift in the rear. You can flip the bracket that holds the locker wiring around and get another inch or so of slack as well as the brake line bracket can be loosened/adjusted to give more play in the lines. But you probably wont need them. I have significantly more droop and I ran without for awhile. The Swaybar should be relocated to the trash honestly. It allows that front end to flex so much more. I would suggest unbolting it and storing it. Drive around for a few weeks and see how much you like it. There is a bit more body roll but with an upgraded suspension, its not bad at all.

I would suggest spending the extra cash on the 2.5s with RR up front and keep the 2.0 with or without RR in the rear. Not many companies produce the shocks without RR these days. The reason I say this is as you may not see yourself off road much now but with these upgrades and the fact you have an OR, thats going to change. The feel of the truck is going to improve so much. Buy once cry once, best advice I can give you.


This is a sample list of where I would go if I had to start another build.

2.5 w RR ext travel front (custom valved with flutter stack)

2.0 RR rear with similar valving

Full leaf pack vs AAL. OEM packs are shit, just spend the money on a full pack from the start.

Uniball upper control arms to give 1" extra droop that the EXT C/Os allow

Remove front swaybar and store in garage (until you throw it away)

Send me a PM if you have more questions. I can even help you with a package price.

 

To second what 2ndgenjohnny said, the point of remote resi's is to help for the most part with shock fade. Shock fade is a term where when your shocks heat up, eventually the viscosity will change the fluid which will reduce the effectiveness of the valving and make the shock "softer." To help prevent this, a remote Resi will help limit the heat build up in the shock and should reduce the shock fade to a decent extent. Also if you get the ones with the compression adjusters, you can adjust your shock stiffness with just a few clicks. I have a few buddies who have them and they swear by them.

Good call on the leaf pack vs an AAL. The AAL will make your rear end bounce vs a new leaf pack will make it nice just like the front would be...although a new leaf pack does cost more. Honestly, if you have time, I would just get the fronts first and then save up for the rear. The fronts can be at stock height while you wait for the rear that will increase the lift. When you get the rear done, just simply crank on the front coilovers and bam you are level height! Atleast that is what I am doing.

Lastly, doesn't hurt taking off the sway bar as it tends to be a pain in the ass and limits things as Johnny said. Im not sure about your area, but I know for me that VA tends to fail inspections without a sway bar so I would keep it around for when you need to get inspected. If it turns out you don't need it, then eventually chuck it. The sway bar is easy to remove and put back on.

Coot

 

This is correct. I have this set up in the front and wanted a little more lift then they came with from the factory. So after they were originally installed I removed them twice using a spring compressor adjusting the spring perch up. This is not a 10 min. Job nor is it that fun. I like the ride and handling quality but would opt for the 2.5 for the easy adjustment.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/build-thread-dynosports-2015-dclb-4x4.446841/#post-13055759

 

Thanks for the input everyone. Looks like I'm gonna have to go big or go home. Might to do what Coot83 suggests to get front done first but with 2.5s and bite the bullet and put in UCAs while I'm at it. Its disheartening to hear that the adjustable 2.0 coilovers arent easily adjustable and are no easier than 5100s. that's kind of the point of coilovers right? 2ndgenjonny is right about the leafs, but i might as well do it right the first time than regret it later and wish I had got a new leaf pack. Wondering if deavers or Dakar's? Guess I should also invest in 2.0s with RR. As far as custom valving, who does that?

 

I think Deavers might be a little expensive for what you want to do and I think they have a wait time for their stuff. Before I decided to go ape shit with a SUA kit, I was considering these leafs from wheelers as Im trying to get about 2 inches of height as well. Trust me I came to the same conclusion with suspension, the more you look into it, the more expensive it seems to be. You will be glad though that you will have more bomb proof suspension at the end of the day and the ride will be worth it. With your application, I don't think you will need custom valving, but Im still am an amateur at this stuff. If you are worried about the rear, then get some 2.0 RR with adjusters that way you can set it up on the fly. I should of gotten adjusters for the front, but my rear shocks will have adjusters on them. I agree with you that I think it is sad that the 2.0s don't really have the adjustability you would expect for a coilover. Even if you got all the mods done in a weekend, the hunger for more stuff will still be there! Space it out and enjoy the build.

Coot

 

Well shit good to know right there. So the shock alone will increase the lift? I thought you needed to have a add a leaf or modify your pack to get more height in the rear as well?

Coot

 

When you order from most vendors especially Micah from @Downsouth Motorsports he will ask questions about how you drive as well as how you intend to use your truck. From what I understand most valving from King these days has a flutter stack. These set the valving to soak of the chatter or fast cycling of the shock over washboard roads in the early parts of compression.
There is a great video about CDCs on youtube as well. This will explain the benefits of compression adjusters.


As for leaf packs, you need to figure out if you plan to load up the rear for camping or even towing. An Expo pack from Deaver, AllPro or even Dakar will be set with a weight above OEM. Note that when you have a leaf pack with a larger overload it will be a bit stiffer in the rear.

 

So then does he still have spacers in the rear? I assume he has 33s on there right?

Coot

 

I have the fox 2.0 front and rear, I like them, definitely better offroad than stock and they are a bit stiffer on the street.
But that do heat up quick as their 2.0s, also you can't adjust them easily at all which is annoying. I plan on eventually getting 2.5 fox for the better performance and etc.
I have a 2" AAL with just fox 2.0 in the rear, no brake lines or carrier bearing drop. Has been fine.
If you offroad a lot get the front 2.5 w/ resi and rear w/ resi, if it's just an occasional maybe monthly trail the 2.0 should be fine for you.

 

Where did your buddy purchase the set from? Cheapest i found is headstrong at almost 1100

 

Damn that is good to know!

Coot

 

I just went to autoanything.com and looked at their brands they offer page and fox isn't even on there. Can you send me a link?