Mid Travel BS 2.0

I rigged up a little mount

 

i posted my set up last weekend. Just the weld on mounts to the frame, was easy. But i see you got it done!

 

Heeeeyyy where'd the 'safe place' go.

Haha I've veen playing some of 'The Division' lately and it makes me laugh every time I go into a safe house and the computer goes "This is a safe place" LOL @2ndGenJonny

 

You could try removing the second overload leaf and upgrading to a better/ longer rear shock with a 15-16" compressed length(OME shocks suck IMO).

 

Removing the overload leaf isn't going to change anything except my ride height. The springs don't flex far enough to contact the overloads anyway, even with 1200 lbs of aluminum in the bed. OME shocks do suck. I have had kings in the rear for about a month now, they are slightly longer than the stock or OME. Mine have a compressed length of 16.58" and an extended length of 25.29". They are definitely an improvement to the OME shocks. I had some even longer shocks too that I was going to do custom mounts for but realized I would only be gaining down travel. Right now I have about 4" up and 4.5" down travel. With the longer shocks, shock relocation bracket and the same leafs I would have had roughly 4.5" up travel and 7.5" down travel. Big change in down travel which would have been nice but I am more interested in up travel. I like to drive fast down mildly rough roads more than I like to rock crawl.

 

The upper overload definitely causes a more progressive spring rate and changes the way they perform at low and high speed(unless you talk to OZ).
You said the Dakars are stiff so by losing a small amount of lift u would gain performance and it would be easy to do and free.
With my 10" shocks(16" collapsed) I have just under 5" up and 5" down with about 2.75" of lift. Which matches the max travel of the dakar pack without a shackle flip. I did have to cut some U bracket on the Dakars because they would contact the frame.

 

How would the overload cause a change in spring rate when it's flat? It only comes into play when your leaf pack starts going into negative arch, and the overload starts to contact the rest of the leafs. Unless the Dakar overloads are not flat and are already contacting the rest of the leaf pack.

 

It only takes a few inches and the leafs start to flatten out on the overload. The upper overload is almost flat where as the lower overload has a more negative arch to it. I also tryed removing only the 3rd leaf before I removed the upper overload and the leaf pack was almost 50% flat on that overload at ride hieght( about 1.75" lift). Almost half of up travel is ngitive arch.

 

Got to test out the new rear end today... Bamf Shock tower, 2.5x12 king resi, shackle flip with extended shackle. Handles great so far. Still have to tweak the shackle angle to get it from 30 degrees to 45 degrees.

 

What is everyone using for spring compressors to disassemble their coilovers?
I have a couple pairs of cheap screw type compressors and have done 400 lb springs in the past but I felt like that was really pushing it.

 

http://www.branick.com/products-strut-tools.php

Take them to an alignment shop to have it properly so you don't injure yourself with cheap tools.

 

I've been using the same " cheap tools " for six years on up to 700 lb springs with no issues at all. It is all about smart tool usage. When it comes to the inexpensive spring tools the big trick is finding the correct shaped claws that are small enough to fit in between larger dia off road springs. I use these ones :

http://www.cpooutlets.com/atd-7561-...map=atdn7561&gclid=CLbkjJnn-84CFQkHaQodobIB7Q

Edit - BTW you always use both tools at once, one on each side of the coil and IE adjust slowly a 1/4" at a time so that no single tool is taking all of the stress for any long duration.

 

I used to have something similar and it was always sketchy to use. But they can get the job done if you pay attention to what you're doing and take your time.I have the Branik and I can get a coil spring off in 30 seconds, well worth the investment for the amount of time saved.

 

ive specifically only used the cheap tools. 100% success rate and i have all my fingers.

 

Thanks for the replies guys.
I have Icon extended travel shocks with the standard 650lb/13"springs. From the looks of it I don't think they need to be compressed very much at all if the adjusting collar is all the way up.
The 400 lb springs I've done in the past were OME springs for another vehicle but needed to be compressed over 3" to fit onto the shocks.

Also, does Icon not publish or give away schematics for their shocks? One side has started leaking and I'm trying to decide whether I should rebuild them/replace seals or sell them and get Kings.

 

He's missing his left testicle but all 18 fingers and toes are still there

But there was that one time you earned the nickname " one ball "

 

I was able to rebuild and revalue mine just fine. Pretty sure I got everything from dsm for pretty cheap. Rebuilds are easy enough not to buy new shocks, unless you have other reasons for changing MFGs

 

I mostly just want an excuse to upgrade to King

But yeah rebuilding them sounds and looks simple enough and doesn't warrant replacing them haha.

One last question, can I drive on them to take them in for a nitrogen recharge or is that a no-no?

 

Yes, you can drive on them just to go get them filled.

 

I wanna say that's a no-no as it would induce cavitation with no pressure, but I'm no expert so