Tampa Bay Area Tacomas BS Thread

Damn it. You're going to get me thrown out of the house lol.

 

Depending on where Lee's dryer is & if you had a long enough cord or a 220 extension cord you could plug into the dryer receptacle, if the plug matches that is.

 

It'd have to be a pretty long, heavy guage cord. The drier is in the back of the house. Not certain the circuit would handle it either since we've had issues with the drier drawing too much current in the past.

I do have a breaker panel in the tool room that is fed by a 60A 220V source, so it's possible to install a 220V outlet connected to it, but I can't afford to spend the money to do it ATM. Got too many other fires to put out.

Just out of curiosity, @Timbo89, how what amp circuit does your welder require?

 

I have a extension cord for it. Very thick from a weld shop and it is set up on mine for a 50a

 

Fat daddy

Either 25 or 30' long

 

K, it's the right kind of plug (and your cord would probably be long enough), but my drier circuit is only a 30A.

 

all good it's a pain to load it all up. We will get the lifts done

 

Well, at least now I know what amp circuit I need to put in if I ever get around to putting in a 220V outlet. I'd like to someday get a welder and see if I can develop some skills with it. I used to be able to stick weld moderately well, though I never really mastered welding upside down, but that was a long time ago since I did any of that. Safe to say I'd be rusty as hell. Never really tried mig welding, but I'd like to at some point.

 

I have a 110 Flux feed if @Timbo89 thinks that will be enough. Can only do little sections at a time or it will over heat cause it's a little guy. But from what I've read ypu should only do 1 inch at a time on the mounts because you will heat up the bushings. Would a 110 Flux be strong enough?

 

I can tell you from experience, flux core wire with a 110V welder won't make a very pretty weld. That's how my sliders were welded on by someone that welded professionally for the railroad until he retired. The welds aren't very pretty at all, but they have held up at least. That being the case, I'd wait until you could get it done at Tim's place (I'm assuming his rig has an argon setup).

Edit: haha, the welds on my sliders look even worse these days now that they are right next to the beautiful welds Todd laid down on the frame reinforcing plates.

 

It was just a thought, I've used my dryer receptacle before but mines in the garage & if you get too far you have to worry about amperage drop too. For some reason I was thinking it was in the storage room on your carport.

 

I hate Flux lol. We can do it here at my house. With weld gas

 

Haha, it used to be in there in the distant past, but now it's in what used to be the back porch that we closed in...which granted is right behind where it used to be but it's still is a pretty good distance by the time you run the cord back there. That room you're thinking of is the tool room now.

 

Does anyone have experience with re-gearing and installing lockers? Because I just got new gears and a rear locker and if that is something I can do myself or with someone's help, I'd rather do that.

 

Go to a specialist for that. To much that could go wrong

 

If it's just an automatic locker, like a detroit, it wouldn't be that hard. As far as setting up the new gears, those are a bit trickier...especially the front clamshell since I've never done one before and it looks like a PITA. Honestly, when/if I regear, I'm going to have it done by a shop so if anything goes wrong, I might have some sort of guarantee to fall back on.

If you do end up doing it yerself, I'd try to find a set of set-up bearings (bearing that are machined looser so you can take them on and off to get the correct shim thickness before you press the real bearing on). It would also be helpful to know someone with an arbor press (@allenfab ) to press the bearings and whatnot on. Other than that, you'd need a dial indicator with a decent magnetic base and a torque wrench that will measure turning torque. Also, if your current rear carrier shims won't work to get the proper back lash, you might have trouble finding a shim kit for it.

You could also send all your stuff to East Coast Gear Supply and have them install it in a third member/clamshell and send it back, then you would just have to install it and send your old stuff back to them.

 

This last part is probably the way to go

 

I got all of it from East Coast gear supply and yes its a Detroit. But I'm probably just gonna have the shop do it then, seems a bit out of my capabilities.

 

True if I didn't need to drive my truck for a while, but unfortunately I would need it

 

That'd probably be the best bet. Too bad you didn't just have ECGS set them up for you and send you the assembled units so you could just slap them in and send the old ones back. That would have been ideal. Wish it would work for me, but I already have a detroit in the rear and the spiders in my front carrier are welded so I'd have to send them my clamshell and third member before hand and my truck would end up sitting on jack stands for a couple weeks or more before it was mobile again. That just wouldn't work for me.