Capture Colorado 01 TRD Taco - GOAE build

That looks awesome. Pretty much exactly what I want some day.

 

turned out killer man! good work.

 

wow, cool stuff going on in here!

 

Super cool! I'll be curious to know your feedback on this revision of the bed drawers as I think I'll be building some this winter.

 

I'm really looking forward to getting the drawers themselves built and seeing how those rollers work out. So far the top deck has been amazing, I need to find a bit of time to install the little handles I built that'll go right next to the levers for the slides, otherwise I'm really enjoying how smooth and easily it is to operate.

I find myself just opening and closing it because I can. Easily. I do need to get some drawer handles for this one, because it's only a matter of time before my fingers and the drawer box itself decide to join forces.

 

My shell leaks in the same spot, tell us how it holds up in the next rainstorm.

 

It dumped the night before last... While it didn't leak as much as usual, it still leaked. Not sure what else I can do, I kind of suspect that it's running along the hinge and finding a way in through that whole mess of metal.

It's worth doing, because it definitely made an improvement, it's just not 100% yet. I had actually looked into, and considered, buying a new rear window, the price on them is like $500, which is steep, but the rest of the shell is in great shape, and it was a killer deal. But then the companies all have tacked on "packaging fees" and astronomical shipping, etc. it costs more to ship a window than it does to ship a bike... and I guarantee it's a smaller box than a bike! Before long they start to cost like $750-$800+

 

Yup, I've been running into the same problems but I can't complain too much because I got the shell for $20.

 

my $400 after paint shell... it leaks slightly near the rear window as well.... i dont sleep back there and have a bunch of action packers that I store my stuff in ... i might try out some of that rubber you got for yours it might solve my problem.

 

Selling my coilovers if anyone is interested:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...oilovers-extended-travel-95-04-tacoma.447197/

Extended travel 2.0 model, includes 500lb and 650lb coils.

 

After a few weeks of running with that stuff it's been working SO much better than before. Still have some water getting in, but after a night of rain, there's just a small collection of water inside, where as before it was kind of like not having a door on there at all. I think there's some water creeping in through the hinge, there's so many holes and a lot of f'd up metal on that thing that it doesn't surprise me. Definite improvement over before, I recommend spending the $6 on that quick little project

 

Not going to clutter your FS thread but I think these will work on mine, my lower mount is a tad bit lower than yours, only thing that "worries" me would be the passenger side since its mounted forward. But worse case is I'll get my buddy to help relocate my shocks and move the spare to the bed for the time being.

 

When I put that bar in across the top, it's pretty much in-line with the original rear upper mount, so I'd assume it'll work just fine on both ends, plus that lower mount is an extra inch or more lower than what I welded on.

Shock relocation FTW!

 

May have to this year but we'll see how it goes, no against putting my spare in the bed until I can buy/fab a rear swingout

 

Question for ya, how useful do you find the ability to slide the top of the platform out of the vehicle? I'm busy planning my build for this winter but shudder at the thought of spending $600 on drawer slides for the 2 drawers plus the top.

Unless of course you have a better source for drawer slides. I'm staring at $225 a pop for these 60"ers: http://drawerslidesinc.com/drawer-s...full-extension-lock-in-lock-out-drawer-slide/

 

I've found it extremely useful. With the platform, the opening between the top of the platform and the topper is about 20-21", so that's a tight squeeze to try and get something that's at the front of the bed. Having the top slider makes a world of difference for getting crap out of the front. The first platform I built didn't really slide that well, so it was really just drawers below and a flat surface, which was kind of nice, but makes getting the hard to reach stuff a pain.

I bought the 60" slides from here: http://truck-hardware.orrorr.com/vi...y-duty-lock-in-lock-out-full-extension-slide? which are the same as those you're looking at. BTW, those are sold in pairs, so it's $225 for 2.

The locking mech on those and the ones I own are finicky and they don't like to slam, but for the price I'm okay with it. If you felt like fabbing your own lock in/out mechanism, you can go with a non-locking slide.

 

During my trip to Monarch, I was coming back down off Tomichi Pass in the truck and heard an alarming pop/bang/ka-pow from the steering bits while turning. I ordered new inner & outer tie rods, boots, and bushings.

Yesterday I set forth to replace all of the above. I pulled the boot off the driver side and quickly noticed that there was play in the main bearing of the rack... Shit. I was afraid of that. I had crawled under the truck earlier this week and wiggled shit around, but that didn't seem to have any play, but when everything is apart, and no weight is on the wheels, aaaand the boot is removed. Well, it's really easy to identify.

So I sat in the garage and debated: do I say f*ck it and put everything back together, and deal with that later? Or track down a new rack and knock it out right then and there. Plus, now I have spare inner tie rods, since the new rack came with those. That's not something I want to install on the trail, but I have them.

I said f*ck it. 2016 is the year of new bearings, bushings, sensors, bits, and clutch.





It's really easy to replace bushings when the rack isn't installed. Or dirty. Ripped out the OEM-style rubber bushings, installed Energy suspension polyurethane bushings. Soooo much nicer. Also, the original bushings were DESTROYED. I recommend replacing yours with these ASAP, it's actually not that bad. I was able to squeeze the old ones out pretty much by hand with the use of a pair of channel locks and cutting the lip of the seal off with a razor blade.



An hour and a half later, it would have looked like this. But in reality, two hours and 15 minutes later it looked like this. On the passenger-side bushing, the upper bolt is "fixed" into a bracket on the frame... Turns out the spot welds holding the nut into that bracket is VERY easy to break free. Proceed with caution, otherwise you'll snap those things free, and trying to deal with that accordingly sucks. Good news: the nut and bolt (that are welded in place) are easily unthreaded from each other, so after fumbling with that for half an hour trying to put the bolt back through the bracket (it won't fit), I removed the nut, and installed the bolt through the bracket, and fingered the nut (giggity) back onto the bolt. It was awkward, and I could have finished this thing in an hour and a half otherwise.



Low Range has this slick device that I thought about buying to help get the alignment close to correct, but then I said screw it and just used two 4' levels that fit perfectly between the lugs. I'm pretty sure I got my toe set to within 1mm of perfectly aligned. We'll find out today.

 

What rack did you go with?

 

When did you get these lights? Are they the Iggy specials? Are they the 185Ws?