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Changing out a Wheel bearing! (How to)

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by battleyota, Jan 26, 2013.

  1. Aug 27, 2016 at 7:18 PM
    #21
    Reh5108

    Reh5108 Well-Known Member

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    I would guess the prerunner would be similar to this as opposed to the ADD style



     
  2. Oct 29, 2016 at 5:25 AM
    #22
    Tacodrew

    Tacodrew New Member

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    Hmmm question I have a 2002 base 2wd 2.4 tacoma
    Looking to do front bearings rotors and wheel studs, guy I bought it off of was a butcher, haven't been able to find video of the assembly the rotors do not slide off on this one they are bolt on just curious if some one has a blow out of bearing assy and removal
     
  3. Sep 9, 2017 at 5:18 PM
    #23
    Stout890

    Stout890 Well-Known Member

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    So I'm about to do the bearings on my 2wd pre runner and I'm having a hell of a time finding good info on it. Can anyone confirm that it's the same process as the 4wd? If so I'm fugged since I don't have that special tool.

    Also what seals are required?

    All info I have found stops giving details after they get to the bearing in the spindal than it skips to the reassembly.

    I hope I don't need that special tool, this is the first time Iv heard about it.
     
  4. Sep 9, 2017 at 6:12 PM
    #24
    Reh5108

    Reh5108 Well-Known Member

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    I'm betting that you will need the special tool. Can you look at the FSM?
     
  5. Sep 9, 2017 at 6:59 PM
    #25
    Stout890

    Stout890 Well-Known Member

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  6. Sep 10, 2017 at 7:30 AM
    #26
    Reh5108

    Reh5108 Well-Known Member

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    I think the lock nut is what you need the tool for. I believe that you do have a free wheeling hub. The prerunner drawing appears to have the same lock nut as the free wheeling hub does.
     
  7. Sep 10, 2017 at 12:27 PM
    #27
    Stout890

    Stout890 Well-Known Member

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    To me it looks like it says a "bearing spacer" with out free wheeling hub
    And the lock nut with free wheeling hub

    What exactly is a free wheeling hub anyway? The bearing replacement diy in the write ups shows a 4x4 with a hub bolted in that I don't have and describes it as a free wheeling hub. Also the part break down shows that same extra hub I don't have as a free wheeling hub which is why I thought mine doesn't have that.
     
  8. Sep 10, 2017 at 1:58 PM
    #28
    Reh5108

    Reh5108 Well-Known Member

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    From doing my ADD hubs I know that I don't have the lock nut so with knowing that, the manual and prerunner are the free wheel hubs.

    In my mind a free wheeling hub is a hub that doesn't require an axle to work. Manual hubs can be run with no axle because the lock nut provides tension on the bearing. ADD hubs require the axle to hold the tension on the bearing.

    To me it makes sense that the design would be almost identical to the manual hub and in looking at the drawings the only difference I see between the two is the manual hub has an oil seal where the prerunner has a grease cap.
     
  9. Sep 10, 2017 at 2:29 PM
    #29
    Stout890

    Stout890 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks that clears up a lot. So I was assuming incorrectly about the free wheeling hub.

    I hope the special tool used to remove the lock but is common at auto shops since I don't have one and I'm going foreword with all this work today lol

    Also it clears up the inner seal issue I think because since I have a grease cap and no opening for an axle I don't have an inner seal most likely.
     
    Reh5108[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Sep 12, 2017 at 4:00 PM
    #30
    Stout890

    Stout890 Well-Known Member

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    So I just got my spinal back from the machine shop with the new bearings in and it's is significantly more difficult to rotate the hub than it was before with the old bearings. They still rotate but they are stiff! Is that normal with new bearings?
     
  11. Sep 12, 2017 at 6:11 PM
    #31
    Reh5108

    Reh5108 Well-Known Member

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    Did they torque the lock nut to spec? New bearings are usually a little tighter.
     
  12. Sep 12, 2017 at 7:45 PM
    #32
    Stout890

    Stout890 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah he said it was normal. I didn't ask specifically what torque he got em too but they are a really knowledgeable machine shop with a good reputation and they have done a few of these.

    It's about 15-20 lbs of force needed to rotate them now I would guess.

    When I could spin em before with just my fingers
     
  13. Sep 12, 2017 at 11:58 PM
    #33
    Stout890

    Stout890 Well-Known Member

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    So the bearings drive fine but the loud noise I was thinking was bearings is still there so hey at least I have new front wheel bearings! Lol
     
  14. Jun 22, 2018 at 2:35 PM
    #34
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    For those of you that haven't seen a front wheel bearing apart. Here ya go. This is a brand new bearing i was pressing in when the press ring shifted off the edge. Broke the outer race.
    20180622_142610.jpg 20180622_142627.jpg 20180622_142709.jpg 20180622_142634.jpg
     
  15. Aug 24, 2019 at 1:44 PM
    #35
    pulldo

    pulldo Well-Known Member

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    That sounds like way to much torque to rotate, I bet the shop didn't support the bearing or the hub correctly when they pressed it in and "crushed" the bearing race.
     
  16. Jan 19, 2020 at 8:24 PM
    #36
    fireguymx

    fireguymx New Member

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    Hello, I wanted to let you know that this was very helpful for me. It was very hard to find
    the same hub as mine. There is no video that showed me 2000 toyota tacoma with manual hubs
    and most important "No Axle Bolt" under hub. Is the correct way to adjust bearing free play
    is by Adjusting nut on inside rear to 200 lbs?. Should I replace safety bolt to end of shaft?
    Thanks for the help...
     
  17. Oct 17, 2021 at 7:18 PM
    #37
    darcycook

    darcycook Well-Known Member

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    the tool is ASSENMACHER toy185 buy at autotoolworld.com $61.85 free shipping
     

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