Brice's Turbo V6 Build

So I took this thing out for a test drive...a few things

1. I have a vacuum leak

2. I'm gonna have to grind some stuff for the turbo to be clocked correctly (left a james bond style exit on my way back home) like @StAndrew had suggested

3. due to the vacuum leak I idle anywhere from 14.0-15.3AFR, not detrimental, but not good.

4. I need to once over my IC piping and clamps as at 2psi I blew one (which killed the engine, don't worry it started back up)

However I must say at just 2 psi (give or take a few since its a cheap boost gauge) this thing hauls it in the lower rpm range! The worst feeling was when the IC pipe blew of and all my boost left me lol

5. 2psi came in at around 2100 rpm or so

Im also 99% sure I left out an intake manifold bolt...we'll see tomorrow! Oh and at 2psi my AFR was 12.0-13.0, not to bad for a vacuum leaky turbo 5VZ. Assuming what I just went on about are my issues then this puppy should be tip top and blow'n away cocky V6 mustang drivers in no time (I was gonna say normal mustangs but there ain't no way this will be quicker than a 5.0)

Oh and Andrew, could you send me a picture of what exactly you ground down? Its alright if yah cant.

One other thing. Yes my MAF was on backwards (that and I had a giant vacuum leak)

 

Really curious on too see where in the rpm range your getting boost. So far 2 psi at around 2100rpm is right where I would want it to be.

 

Yeah me too, but right now the whole thing is to unstable to really test...so many issues lol

 

Unfortunately I can't get a pic without taking the turbo of. Just start clocking it until something hits. Examine it and stupid test it: "can I grind this and how much?"

 

Ok so I found my current major issue. The truck idles in closed loop at 14.3-16 now... I'm not sure why it won't idle in open loop... On the plus side at full throttle it does around 11.0 to 12.3 AFR which is pretty nice. It also hauls butt! full boost is at like 2500 or so, however full boost is only 4.5psi. Another thing is the engine dies after boosting??? not sure why, no codes so idk... I may go draw through. Im also bleeding oil despite having fixed my draining issue...I believe my restrictor is too big? Im tempted to tag Torspd to get his opinions... Eh wth







@Torspd, I may be but a 1st gen pleeb but I'm curious as to what you think about my afr situation. Again full boost is nice and clean at low 11's to mid 12's but idle wanders around so much and I have no idea why. Could it be I've adapted the maf from 3inch to 2.5inch? at this point that's all I can think of...

 

The idle does that because CXRacing made a rather large mistake when designing this kit.

The stock AFR sensor is designed to fit 2 1/4" exhaust which have two very distinct qualities over the 3" exhaust. First, the sensor is positioned nice and close to the middle of the 2 1/4" exhaust rather than on the side (look up what laminar flow is; that is what's happening with the exhaust gasses in the 3" down pipe). Second, as the gasses don't have much place to expand, and as they are flowing faster, they don't cool down as much with 2 1/4" exhaust unlike your 3" pipe. The AFR sensor needs to sample hot exhaust gasses to get a good reading.

To fix it, you could mount the AFR sensor up higher, right behind the turbo exhaust where the down pipe starts to turn down. This should allow the exhaust gasses to 'blow' on the sensor for a better reading.

As for you engine dying, that's a product of your MAF placement. When you are boosting, then suddenly shut the TB, the pressurized air flows backwards back out the turbo. Even though your TB is closed, the MAF is measuring the air flow backwards and the ECU thinks you are still pumping air into the engine so it still fires the injectors accordingly. Your AFR's go WAY rich almost causing you to stall. If you turned up the boost any more, you just might stall. Recommend moving your MAF to pre-turbo if you can to reduce this effect.

 

Alright, I guess I'll go draw through. I'll go ahead and order the adapter for that as well as the o2 sensor bung. I've had an oil leak/burn issue too so I think Ill pick up a smaller reducer while I'm at it.

 

So is there a consensus on what to do with the pcv? I don't like the idea of just venting to the atmosphere. Any alternative insight, @Torspd @j0shu4 @GioGuitarDude @Blackdawg?

My only thoughts are running it as stock with a catch can and check valve or routing it pre turbo with a catch can. Both seem iffy. My knowledge of fluids would lead me to believe running it stock would create more crank pressure while boosted. The check valve will prevent boost from entering the crank but the blowby won't be able to enter the manifold until it's pressure exceeds boost pressure. Alternatively, sending blowby gasses straight through a turbo just can't be good either. Is a catch can not sufficient to prevent any sort of damage?

 

So you should run it (to most efficient) pcv>catch can>turbo inlet, the catch can catches oil and such. Most just vent to atmosphere for ease or "those few extra horsepower" as far as the fresh air intake for the crankcase is concerned, the only really good way to do it is, crankcase intake>check valve>filter. This allows it to breathe but not vent. All excess pressure, blow by and oil gos into the catch can then back into the intake or atmosphere (depending on what you do). These engines really don't have much blow by as is so there shouldn't be to much concern with crankcase case gases. What you DONT want to do is allow the pcv to see boost, as the will blow oil out of seals and such, no good.

Btw there are to vents on the engine one on the passenger side valve cover at the front (pcv), and one at the drivers side valve cover rear (crankcase intake)

As far as damage is concerned, there can't really be any. The only "damage" you'd see running the pcv and crank vent stock would be a oil leakage and blown seals, potentially. I say potentially as some users here do run the stock pcv and breather set up stock. My current set up is a catch can pcv side with a filter and a check valve and filter on the crank intake side. No seepage or issues so far, nor has there been any damage. Hope this helps.

 

How to find exhaust leaks

Supplies:

• A shop vac (or any vacuum that can blow)
• A soapy solution (dish soap and water works well)
• A sealant (muffler and tailpipe sealer off Amazon is what is used here)
• A paint brush (a disposable works nicely)
• And finally Tape.

1. Set your vacuum of choice to blow

2. Tape vacuum outlet to tailpipe (exhaust must be cold of course)

3. prepare your soapy solution.

4. Switch er' on!

5. Now go about the suspect area's and "paint" over the exhaust with your solution. This should cause bubbles, those are your leaks.

6. Now take your sealant and patch the leaking area, you may want to replace a gasket or even weld the leak if it is a large one.

In my case I had a leaky o2 sensor gasket. My downpipe also had a slight leak. The were both fixed with the use of some exhaust sealant. I must thank @StAndrew for introducing me to this stuff. It works great!

Shop Vac and soapy water.

leaky o2 sensor gasket


Leaky downpipe weld. I need to weld this from the inside of the pipe, by due to lack of time and the nature of the leak, I'll get away with pasting sealant over it.


And finally, the sealant to fix it all.


I'll add more pictures to this soon, but for now I had nothing to do so I posted what I had.

 

Keep in mind that a leaking seal is not the only source of a vacuum leak. Albiet, those are pertinent and usually the first sources which need to be corrected.

Having a flow differentiation, where there is a source post MAF sucking in unmetered air, will also be a source of a vacuum leak.

Idling in closed loop should be the very norm, except in a few scenarios where it will idle in Open loop for a brief period.

Turbulence across the MAF sensor, all else being squared away, will also cause AFR large swings, while cruising, or idling.

A large vacuum leak, will cause the engine to get very rich around "0" or atmosphere, on the boost gauge.

Depending on the proximity of the BOV to the MAF sensor, that can cause strange occurances, including major enrichment, stumbling, and or engine stalling.

Using both a flow straightner pre-maf and having the BOV as close to the turbo as limitations allow, will alleviate this on a blow-through MAF setup.

On a pull through MAF setup, the BOV must be recirculated or there will be operational issues when it vents.

 

So I watched your part 2 video. Good music choice. With that, and scrolling a page before, I am left with a few questions.

1st: Do you have a flex coupling in your down-pipe, or in the exhaust right after the down-pipe? If not, be prepared to start finding more leaks, and possibly cracks. I cannot stress enough, having a flex coupling.

2nd: I saw the pcv hose on the driver side valve cover. Where did it used to attach, and what is it attached to now? ( This also hoes for the passenger one.) You do a good job articulating and describing what you are doi g in your videos. If you could make another showing as detailed as possible how your pcv setup is, I would very much appreciate it. As well it would be beneficial to others.

3rd: Add in a check valve to the brake booster hose. To prevent boosted air from going in. At 4.5 psi, it probably won't hurt it, but it is aged and not meant for it.

 

As far as damage I was referring to routing blowby straight into the turbo. I've read around a bit and that seems to be a big no-no but I was wondering how much a catch can would help as it seems to be the only source of vacuum(?) or at the very least zero boost.

 

It will help. Mine is completely independant. Still catches plenty. Gasses still make it by the rings, more so with boost than without, which will still feed the can. Even without having suction added.

 

Is there a draw back to having it independent? My only thoughts would be emissions issues and maybe a bad smell near the engine.

 

For Now I have no BOV so I ordered the stuff to convert to draw through last night. so hopefully this allows things to operate more smoothly. I also order an o2 sensor bung to move the primary o2 sensor up closer to the turbo, I believe that should solve my AFR fluctuation.

1. Yes there is a flex pipe right after the second half of the down pipe, and one on the crossover pipe.

2.My PCV is currently attatched to a catch can that vents to atomosphere. It was attached post TB. I sure can make a video! However I have to sort out some stuff with Adobe Premiere before I can get any editing done...I'm like 5 or 6 videos behind lol... But the PCV routing video can be up today if I figure out my editing software issues.

3. No no no no, no more parts to buyyyyyyyyyyyy ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh...screw it I just wont have power brakes for the time being...

 

Do you live in Cali? If not most places won't care what the PCV does. And Again these engines have such little blow by that there won't be any noticeable smell.

 

Nope, sounds good I might take that route then.

 

Oh and hey just leave that SC there and join the twincharged club haha

 

Honestly I'm considering it. It's just too easy to install. Could put a 7th injector back on and work out a lot of the fueling needs also. The TRD charger is bad ass at low boost so it would definitely make a diff having 2-3 psi right off the floor then a big turbo to pick up the pace after that.

If I can't get a decent pay out for it I might have to toss the idea around a bit more