Wiring for Wolo Horn Upgrade

Ok - so I took out the factor horns which only had one positive going to both of them. Went to put this guy in and my question is do I just go from the compressor negative straight to the negative on the battery? I just want to make sure that the positive coming from the factory horn has a relay and fuse on it so I don't blow things up. I'm just confused as to why there was no negative on the factory horn. Thanks guys.


instructions for one wire setup. doesn't work with just one positive plugged in. needs negative wired for it to work

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these two are tethered together....its just coming from one positively charged wire



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What model # is this Wolo horn?

 

The reason there is no ground wire on the factory horn is because it's grounded through the mount. For your install, you should use a relay to do it properly.

 

Gotcha. But if all I'm getting is a positive wire then wouldn't it have already gone through a relay?

 

Maybe. What I'm saying is I'm betting your wolo horn will draw more power than the stock horn, and you risk frying the wire. For peace of mind it would be best to use a relay

Ok my old car I had hella Supertones. I hooked them up with the stock wire, and then wired in a relay a few days later. The difference it made was pretty significant now that it had a proper amount of power

 

That makes sense. The wire from the factory horn was maybe a 20ga. Would be impossible to cut all the tubing and trace back to point of origin. Can I just add 14ga onto the end of that?

 

Do you understand how a relay works? I'm genuinely not trying to be a smart ass, but wondering if I should explain it.

To answer your question, the best way to know it's right with no doubts in your mind is to wire in your own relay. It'll be a hell of a lot easier too

 

Make a short ground wire and attach to the a good grounding point and you're good. You DON"T need to add a relay or anything, as the factory wiring has all that, just like the instruction indicate. It will work with the factory button, but you will need to swap out the fuse with a 20 amp(the factory uses like a 10 and won't last long) that is required for the horn.

 

So you're telling me you think that stock horn wire can handle 240 watts of power?

 

Just give up. People don't care about good advice. You can preach until the cows come home, but one guy says use facory wiring and thats all OP hears.


My professional opinion. Add a relay. Use the factory wire as the trigger on the relay.

 

That's what I was thinking too.

OP, if you would like further assistance such as a wiring diagram for using a relay, PM me and I'll happily help.

 

no reason for extra wiring, but of you like to make things more difficult and join the TW bandwagon, go ahead and add a relay. The factory wiring is already protected. If you buy the harness that goes with the horn, the guage of wiring in no larger than the factory, so yes the factory wiring can handle the "watts", even though the amperage is the concern about wire gauge.

 

Let's say there's 4' of wiring. Judging by this chart (and your claim of needing a 20 amp fuse) then OP needs 14 guage. No way stock wiring is close to that.

EDIT: OP, does it say in the manual anywhere what kind of draw this horn has?

 

OP, forums have opinions of all people with both good and bad advice. Take those opinions and do some research to verify your findings.

Some of us on here are certified mechanics; with that said. A relay is like a light switch with the heavy wires connected on each side of it. The relay also has some wires connected to it that control the actuation of the relay; this is what your horn control would connect too. You press your horn and it actuates the relay which engages a contact inside that connects your two external big wires completing the circuit and turning on the horn.

Years ago I would just connect a horn etc inline just as others have mentioned as long as the amperage is not to great.

Voltage = Amperage X Resistance

With these newer Electronic vehicles, everything seems to be measured by specific voltages. Heck just changing the bulbs in your interior is not just straight forward.

Regardless; I would NEVER recommend swapping out a fuse for a higher rating; maybe in 69 Chevelle with all 14 gauge wire, but my Taco has a jillion 20 gauge wires everywhere. If something happens to your Taco and someone sees the higher amp fuse, it could affect your warranty.

To end most arguments a wiring schematic would be needed to see exactly what is in that harness.

OP, it is more work, but I put in a relay in my Taco when I put in a push button to control my garage(gate) door opener.

 

Well, Fuck the instructions. TW know it all has spoken and while you are at it, better re-wire the whole truck, because probably about every wire on it is smaller than what this chart shows.

 

bet that is what you tell all your boyfriends?

 

Please swap out all your fuses. I love customer pay wiring work.

 

Any chance of sound clip??

I'm thinking of trying a late Tundra horn for mine

 

I had plane to go with legit train horn, not the fake plastic crap. But ended up going with co2 for air on my truck instead of compressed air