shaking in the rear end at take off??

I'm having the same issue once I lifted mine. I have the Dakars in the rear. My shimmy is from 0-10 mph. I had all my u joints replaced and my carrier bearing replaced and 600 bucks later it's doing the same thing. When I originally picked it up from the shop it still had the shimmy but wasn't as bad. Then after a couple weeks I was back to the hard shimmy. I put in the carrier bearing drop and it didn't do anything. Anyone rise have any suggestions? Guy at the shop wanted to remove the whole drive shaft and bring it to a place to get it balanced. Trying to do some research before I go that far

 

I have learned you could get custom shaft made. However, it's expensive.

Only other options I know. CB flip, ECGS bearing for the front and rear shims...

Good luck!

 

Dose matter about tire size. There mud tires there not supposted to ride good on pavement. There supposted to help u out in the woods

 

Dosent*

 

I'm not sure if someone posted this but check the carrier bearing on the driveshaft. If the lift is done with an AAL then the geometry is potentially out of spec. You can usually just look at the driveshaft and see if it is not straight. Good rule of thumb is to drop the carrier bearing 1/4" for every inch of lift. So if a 2" AAL is on the truck, try maybe a 1/2" drop and see how it goes.

 

I'm not sure about mud tires being an issue for me. I don't have big mud tires.

CB is a possible source of remedy but I also read how you should not necessarily mess with CB too. Something to be mindful about.

 

Could you tell me more about the flip of the CB bracket please?

 

what would u like to know??

 

I would like to know about the CB flip as well. What does this change? The angle goinging into and out of the CB? Just replaced mine, put on the add a leaf, new 5100 shocks and struts. Still shakes. Not as bad but still there. Thinking of new drive shaft but hate to have the expense and a 4 inch friends shaft creates new issues off road.

 

My 05 has a spacer lift and bigger tires.
Never had a problem till toyo did the frame replacement, toyo said drive shaft was bad or was rear.
replaced both (not buy toyo) still did it.
Turned out to be all I had to do was flip carrier bearing, cleared it up.
Could be solution
That's a sweat looking taco (previous quote from this thread)

When it did a hard take off or was on took off on an incline there would be a banging noise that you could feel under truck.
I think it was the drive shaft hitting the tunnel.
It would do it for a second or two, once I flipped the CB it went away.
I don't know about angles but I believe the metal bracket on the CB is not centered so when u flip it the CB drops a small amount

 

How did you go by flipping the carrier bearings? I am having this problem and been trying to figure out what to do.

 

This is exactly what mine did.
The carrier bearing can be good but you should try flipping it over.
Takes 5min costs nothing.
Just take out 2 bolts, rotate 180* put bolts back it.
You don't take out drive shaft.

quote from post43 this thread

 

Maybe somebody will put up a video for the CB flip question.

 

How do you mean “flip the carrier bearing” like turn it 180 degrees like someone put it on backwards??

 

The carrier bearing flip just lets the weight of the drive shaft sit on a different part of the rubber that's not worn or broke in. It will do it again once the rubber bushing starts to wear again, the shimmy will return. The angles of the shaft have to be within a .5 degree of its original position stock. Only true way to fix is to correct those angles. 2-3 degree shim in rear depending on height of lift or switch to a ford ranger carrier bearing. I have the HD Dakar in the rear. Needed a 3 degree shim to correct drive angle. I have no vibrations or shimmy at any speed.

 

Thank you!

 

Axle wrap, it's gotta be axle wrap......not. You guys kill me. 236 HP and driving like a grocery getter and axle wrap is the answer? You got blocks, it's gotta be axle wrap. Good Lord, get off that one.

Check that the new wheels are hub centric like they should be. If they don't fit the center raised portion of the rear hub as intended, that may be a contributing factor.

 

I have an 05 double cab with no lift mod or any other that would change the truck's geometry. I just put on new Michelin standard sized tires and began noticing a take off shutter like the one described.

This is the second set of tires so I somewhat discounted them and being the culprit.

After reading this thread and comparing my U joints to another Taco's to find that there is no play in mine, I did the carrier bearing 180* turn and the shutter went by-by.

I know I am on borrowed time, but at least I have a handle on what was causing the shutter.