Locker Anytime Mod for Dummies 2005+

EDDO · Jun 12, 2016

Didn't find any reference to it in here, so I guessed. These lengths worked well for the ground wire and the Y-cable.

Norton · Jul 24, 2016

jsi[OP] initial post: ↑

This is my first mod to my Tacoma and I was struggling to follow the instructions. There are multiple threads, many confused posters and unclear and conflicting instructions. As I was reading them I felt like I was back in my college calculus class when the Professor would get about half way done with the equation and say “so from this point on it is intuitively obvious how to finish the problem.” Uh no, it's not obvious So I decided to do a Dummies version for those that don't find this sort of thing “intuitively obvious.” (oh and I did pass calculus)

First rule #1 don't be stupid. (That's all I'm going to say here. Read my rant at the bottom if you want.)

OK with the warnings out of the way, let's get started. Why do you want to do this? Well, from time to time you're going to get a little stuck where 4wd feels like over kill, but you still need a little help. Hitting the rear locker is just the ticket in these situations. I chose to do the Radio Shack relay version of this mod, but there's another one out there where you fool the truck into thinking its in 4wd Lo all the time. That one may well be better, or not. I only have one truck and the relay mod “felt” better to me.

Things you can do to break rule #1. I'm sure the reason Toyota limits the locker to 4wd Lo is the number of stupid people out there. A rear locker is dang handy, but it has its limits. If you have one wheel spinning and hit the locker button you will break rule #1 and blow up the diff. If you are driving over 20 mph in slippery conditions with the locker on you break rule #1 and the rear end will spin out. If you are driving on a side slope with the locker on the rear will slide to the low side. If you drive on dry surfaces with the locker on you will wear out the tires. There are surely many more ways to break rule #1 with a locker, but you get the idea. A rear locker really is just for slow speed, getting unstuck situations.

Here we go with the step by step instructions

Get your parts
Make your life simple and buy the Radio Shack 12 volt DPDT 275-0218 relay. (Apparently Radio Shack changed their part number at some time in the past. If they change it again you want a DPDT 12 volt, 10 amp relay.) While I was there I picked up a package of 3/16 inch crimp on quick connects 6403132. This mod cost me less that $5 including tax.

Get your tools

Wire strippers

electricians tape

cable ties

10mm socket with extension

Crimper tool

soldiering iron and soldier

crimp on connections

(not in picture shrink tubing and vampire tap)

Getting access
Make sure the locker is not engaged and turn off the key.
Open the glove box and find the opening damper on the right side. (red arrow)

Squeeze the two ends of the post together and slip the damper off. (it should come off easily with just finger pressure)

On either side of the glove box are the stops. Gently squeeze the sides in near the red arrows and the glove box should drop down. Lift it out and set it aside.

Next remove the glove box top cover. The 10mm bolt holds it in. Once it is removed pull gently on the hidden clips on the far left and right sides.

Finally the plug
Once the glove box and covers are out of the way you can see the plug we will be working on. It, the plug, is a little hard to see so I've marked the photo so you can get your bearings under the dash. To take this picture I literally had the camera on the floor pointing up at the roof of the truck.

This is the plug after it is removed from the 4wd control module. The arrow is pointing at a clip. Just push it down with your thumb and gently work the plug out. The is no reason to remove the 4wd control module.

It's getting real now - cutting the wires
Here is a diagram of the plug and the wires we will be working with. There are two blue wires in the plug and if you look really closely one of them is a lighter shade of blue, is bigger and is in slot number 1. This is the blue wire we will be cutting. The other wires are also shown. There were some question in the threads if Toyota had changed the wire colors. I don't know. My 2011 matched the colors talked about in the other threads. If Toyota did change the colors I can't imagine them changing the pin-outs.

Here's a shot with all of the wires we are going to be working with. I removed all of the black tape. I've put red X's on the violet wire because that one is not cut. The violet wire provides the power and will be connected with a "Y" cable I'll show later.

The shit's just got real
I got a little excited once I cut the wire and put a couple of the crimp ends on. But you get the idea. Notice I DID NOT cut the violet wire.

Finished the connectors
Here the work in process with all of the ends crimped on and the "Y" power cable in place. It doesn't look like it from the picture but all of the crimp ends are the same length. When you put the vampire tap for the "Y" cable you will want to put it as far up the violet wire as you can. I made the "Y" cable long and and cut the ends on to match. (you can see the blue vampire tap near the top of the image) I also put little pieces of electricians tape on the cut ends because I didn't want any chance of them shorting out under the dash.

A note on crimping ends
This is the ground wire for the relay. When you crimp the ends on you want to see just the tip of the copper wire peaking through. There is a split on the top of the connector that I always put in the round side of the tool. The dimple goes in the back. I don't know if there is a right or wrong way to do them, but that's how mine are done. Once the crimp is done I give them a good firm tug to make sure they are crimped correctly.

Making the "Y" power cable
On the first leg of the "Y" use a razor to cut the insulation about 1 inch from the end. Pull the insulation up leaving bare wires in the middle. Cut the excess insulation from the end. Strip the end of the other leg.

Twist the wires together.

Solder

Heat shrink

Making the connections
Electrically speaking there are many correct ways to make the connections to the relay. The ones below are what you see in most threads. There is a PDF out there that suggests a different but electrically equal configuration. (it took me quite a while to compare the different methods, only to see in the end they were the "same") The only time this becomes an issue is if you are using something other than a Radio Shack relay. Anyway, if you look closely at the bottom of the relay you will see numbers next to the connections. Simply plug the correct wires to the number.

Green / Black Stripe

Violet (one end of your "Y" cable)

Violet (the other end of your "Y" cable)

Pink

Green

Blue

Red / Black Stripe

Ground

Finishing up
Here's a shot of what it looks like before being put back together. I've taken a bit more electrician's tape and wrapped up the loose ends and made all of the connections.

Testing your project

Plug the connection back in to the 4wd control module.

Turn on the key to run but don't start the engine and press the locker button.

You should hear the relay click and the rear locker motor activate. (neither of them make much noise so listen carefully)

If you heard both of them go on to the next step otherwise make sure your connections are correct.

Take a short drive. I did this on the quiet, paved street in front of my house. (you're not going to hurt anything if you go slow and just feel for the bind and then back off)

In 2wd press the locker button. The locker light will no longer flash. It only lights when engaged. The light should turn on and you should feel a bind in the rear when turning slowly from left to right.

Push the locker button again and the light should turn off. You may need to turn slowly back and forth to relieve the bind.

Repeat steps 6 and 7 in 4wd Hi and 4wd Lo. You are feeling and listening for the rear locker to engage and disengage.

Everything worked as expected? Yes, then go put your truck back together. No, go check your connections to the relay.

The final assembly
And the final picture before putting the glove box back in. You can see in the background where I grounded the relay. The loose bits have been corralled with a cable tie and the relay cable tied to the main wiring harness. (for clarities sake I have removed the second plug from the 4wd control module. In your project you shouldn't have to remove it, but if you do make sure to put it back.)

Put the glove box back
It is the reverse of taking it out. And you are all done.

That's it. I would rate the project a 4 on a scale of 10. It's not hard, but you are cutting the wiring of your truck and if you break rule #1 it could be expensive to fix.

Oh yeah and here is my rant
(rant)all over the internet people post instructional threads and then say “don't try this at home folks.” WTF really? Are they some how responsible for my actions? It seem so condescending to me. If you see someone do something stupid and then you do the same damn thing aren't you the one that is responsible? If it seems reasonable and later turns out to be stupid aren't you the one that is responsible? If they did it right and you do it wrong aren't you the one that is responsible? If you follow my instructions and it goes badly, I am sorry. My purpose here is to help. I just think everyone should follow rule #1 “don't be stupid” also rule #2 is important as well “take responsibility for yourself.” (/rant)
Click to expand...

Thanks for such a great write-up, @jsi - easy to follow instructions w/lots of pics! Finished product works exactly as described.

ninja89 · Aug 29, 2016

Hi guys here's my thing... I want to do this mod but I know for my general purpose I might be breaking rule number one. I have a V6 4 x 4 and I want to do the locker anytime mod on to 2HI. Reason being is because I want to pitch the truck side wards on a drift (loose/dirt pavement of course) when I'm out with my buddies on some dirt roads. I know I can still pitch it side wards on an open diff... But with a lock rear diff would be so much easier. I'm pretty much asking if this mod is "safe/reliable" when doing this crazy act. Now saying that there will be no human error or "accidentally pressing the switch" or anything like that. Thanks guys.

Ohh and btw.. I have a 2014 taco... Will wires be the same as far as pin connectors and colors?

ninja89 · Aug 29, 2016

StOrMyThEtAcO said: ↑

Anyone done this to a 6?speed?
Click to expand...

About to do this mod... But as soon as some one answers my question above this reply I just posted. I have a 6speed as well. I wanna do this mod to drift better. But hoping the rear diff can handle the abuse with the locker engage

badmonkey · Aug 29, 2016

Reliable? Probably. Safe? What you're proposing is already unsafe in and of itself. Toyota designed it to be safe and reliable. Modifying it changes both aspects. Not saying it shouldn't be done, simply saying we accept those things when we perform any mods.

Elockers are surprisingly durable. The rock crawling crowd love them for dual purpose rigs. It's a great solution for compromising between streetability and hitting the hard stuff. However, as with any mechanical device, altering it's intended use increases the chance of breakage, lightning strikes, or hellfire and brimstone.

To sum, that's a choice on a chance you're willing to take. Or not. That's up to you.

ninja89 · Sep 1, 2016

Does anybody know if all DPDT 12v 10amp relay share the same post numbers for reference when connecting ur wires too? Bc radio shack had another vision but it isn't the exact one that is posted here in this thread... Any info would help thanks guys!

jsi · Sep 1, 2016

ninja89 said: ↑

Does anybody know if all DPDT 12v 10amp relay share the same post numbers for reference when connecting ur wires too? Bc radio shack had another vision but it isn't the exact one that is posted here in this thread... Any info would help thanks guys!
Click to expand...

It's hard to say if the connections are the same without comparing the data sheets for both relays. Comparing the data sheets is how I found this relay that is a direct replacement for the Radio Shack device.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MPKF4Q/ref=cm_sw_su_dp

ninja89 · Sep 1, 2016

jsi[OP] said: ↑

It's hard to say if the connections are the same without comparing the data sheets for both relays. Comparing the data sheets is how I found this relay that is a direct replacement for the Radio Shack device.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MPKF4Q/ref=cm_sw_su_dp
Click to expand...

Yeah I hear what your saying I just ordered the Relay from Amazon. It's just that it's going to take awhile to arrive. That's why I was calling radio shack up for the relay, but it's all good I'll just have to wait till he relay gets in thanks Mai!

ninja89 · Sep 7, 2016

I have the abs kill switch mod on my truck, would this mod hinder the locker anytime mod? Or does it work together?

EDDO · Sep 7, 2016

ninja89 said: ↑

I have the abs kill switch mod on my truck, would this mod hinder the locker anytime mod? Or does it work together?
Click to expand...

Have both. I try to make a practice of disengaging the ABS kill before engaging the locker. No harm done the times this step has been missed.

ninja89 · Sep 7, 2016

EDDO said: ↑

Have both. I try to make a practice of disengaging the ABS kill before engaging the locker. No harm done the times this step has been missed.
Click to expand...

Awesome man thank u!

ninja89 · Sep 7, 2016

I'm confused about the "y" part... Is that going to be the purple #5 wire? And what do u connect with it once U splice it open.:.. And vampire clamp???

Or is that "y" a spearte wire that I will have to make? Please help it lost me once it mentioned y cable

EDDO · Sep 7, 2016

The "y" cable is used simply to allow violet to attach to both pins 2 and 3.

ninja89 · Sep 7, 2016

EDDO said: ↑

The "y" cable is used simply to allow violet to attach to both pins 2 and 3.

Click to expand...

So the opposite end of the y wire would be "vampire taped to violet wire?

EDDO · Sep 7, 2016

ninja89 said: ↑

So the opposite end of the y wire would be "vampire taped to violet wire?
Click to expand...

Correct. You can see it here on the left side of the picture.

ninja89 · Sep 7, 2016

EDDO said: ↑

Correct. You can see it here on the left side of the picture.

Click to expand...

And that purple wire is not cut like the rest of the wires correct? Just tapped in to?

EDDO · Sep 7, 2016

ninja89 said: ↑

And that purple wire is not cut like the rest of the wires correct? Just tapped in to?
Click to expand...

Correct. This is what I used for that.

jsi[OP] initial post: ↑

I've put red X's on the violet wire because that one is not cut. The violet wire provides the power and will be connected with a "Y" cable I'll show later.

Click to expand...

ninja89 · Sep 7, 2016

EDDO said: ↑

Correct. This is what I used for that.

Click to expand...

Awesome dude!! Thanks for the reply back. I have no idea how much u helped me out... Been scratching my head for the longest time lol. I'll let u know once I'm done with the mod and if I need more help

ninja89 · Sep 7, 2016

Hey EDDO What is their parts besides the relay do I need to pick up from radio shack? Besides what u told me already

EDDO · Sep 7, 2016

ninja89 said: ↑

Hey EDDO What is their parts besides the relay do I need to pick up from radio shack? Besides what u told me already
Click to expand...

The materials list in the first post is all you will need.

jsi[OP] initial post: ↑

This is my first mod to my Tacoma and I was struggling to follow the instructions. There are multiple threads, many confused posters and unclear and conflicting instructions. As I was reading them I felt like I was back in my college calculus class when the Professor would get about half way done with the equation and say “so from this point on it is intuitively obvious how to finish the problem.” Uh no, it's not obvious So I decided to do a Dummies version for those that don't find this sort of thing “intuitively obvious.” (oh and I did pass calculus)

First rule #1 don't be stupid. (That's all I'm going to say here. Read my rant at the bottom if you want.)

OK with the warnings out of the way, let's get started. Why do you want to do this? Well, from time to time you're going to get a little stuck where 4wd feels like over kill, but you still need a little help. Hitting the rear locker is just the ticket in these situations. I chose to do the Radio Shack relay version of this mod, but there's another one out there where you fool the truck into thinking its in 4wd Lo all the time. That one may well be better, or not. I only have one truck and the relay mod “felt” better to me.

Things you can do to break rule #1. I'm sure the reason Toyota limits the locker to 4wd Lo is the number of stupid people out there. A rear locker is dang handy, but it has its limits. If you have one wheel spinning and hit the locker button you will break rule #1 and blow up the diff. If you are driving over 20 mph in slippery conditions with the locker on you break rule #1 and the rear end will spin out. If you are driving on a side slope with the locker on the rear will slide to the low side. If you drive on dry surfaces with the locker on you will wear out the tires. There are surely many more ways to break rule #1 with a locker, but you get the idea. A rear locker really is just for slow speed, getting unstuck situations.

Here we go with the step by step instructions

Get your parts
Make your life simple and buy the Radio Shack 12 volt DPDT 275-0218 relay. (Apparently Radio Shack changed their part number at some time in the past. If they change it again you want a DPDT 12 volt, 10 amp relay.) While I was there I picked up a package of 3/16 inch crimp on quick connects 6403132. This mod cost me less that $5 including tax.

(edit) When I posted this Radio Shack was still in business. There maybe store or two still open, but for everyone else here's a link to Amazon for a relay that will work. (thanks to EDDO for confirming it.) http://amzn.com/B008MPKF4Q

Get your tools

Wire strippers

electricians tape

cable ties

10mm socket with extension

Crimper tool

soldiering iron and soldier

crimp on connections

(not in picture shrink tubing and vampire tap)

Getting access
Make sure the locker is not engaged and turn off the key.
Open the glove box and find the opening damper on the right side. (red arrow)

Squeeze the two ends of the post together and slip the damper off. (it should come off easily with just finger pressure)

On either side of the glove box are the stops. Gently squeeze the sides in near the red arrows and the glove box should drop down. Lift it out and set it aside.

Next remove the glove box top cover. The 10mm bolt holds it in. Once it is removed pull gently on the hidden clips on the far left and right sides.

Finally the plug
Once the glove box and covers are out of the way you can see the plug we will be working on. It, the plug, is a little hard to see so I've marked the photo so you can get your bearings under the dash. To take this picture I literally had the camera on the floor pointing up at the roof of the truck.

This is the plug after it is removed from the 4wd control module. The arrow is pointing at a clip. Just push it down with your thumb and gently work the plug out. The is no reason to remove the 4wd control module.

It's getting real now - cutting the wires
Here is a diagram of the plug and the wires we will be working with. There are two blue wires in the plug and if you look really closely one of them is a lighter shade of blue, is bigger and is in slot number 1. This is the blue wire we will be cutting. The other wires are also shown. There were some question in the threads if Toyota had changed the wire colors. I don't know. My 2011 matched the colors talked about in the other threads. If Toyota did change the colors I can't imagine them changing the pin-outs.

Here's a shot with all of the wires we are going to be working with. I removed all of the black tape. I've put red X's on the violet wire because that one is not cut. The violet wire provides the power and will be connected with a "Y" cable I'll show later.

The shit's just got real
I got a little excited once I cut the wire and put a couple of the crimp ends on. But you get the idea. Notice I DID NOT cut the violet wire.

Finished the connectors
Here the work in process with all of the ends crimped on and the "Y" power cable in place. It doesn't look like it from the picture but all of the crimp ends are the same length. When you put the vampire tap for the "Y" cable you will want to put it as far up the violet wire as you can. I made the "Y" cable long and and cut the ends on to match. (you can see the blue vampire tap near the top of the image) I also put little pieces of electricians tape on the cut ends because I didn't want any chance of them shorting out under the dash.

A note on crimping ends
This is the ground wire for the relay. When you crimp the ends on you want to see just the tip of the copper wire peaking through. There is a split on the top of the connector that I always put in the round side of the tool. The dimple goes in the back. I don't know if there is a right or wrong way to do them, but that's how mine are done. Once the crimp is done I give them a good firm tug to make sure they are crimped correctly.

Making the "Y" power cable
On the first leg of the "Y" use a razor to cut the insulation about 1 inch from the end. Pull the insulation up leaving bare wires in the middle. Cut the excess insulation from the end. Strip the end of the other leg.

Twist the wires together.

Soldier

Heat shrink

Thanks to EDDO for posting this picture showing the lenghts needed

Making the connections
Electrically speaking there are many correct ways to make the connections to the relay. The ones below are what you see in most threads. There is a PDF out there that suggests a different but electrically equal configuration. (it took me quite a while to compare the different methods, only to see in the end they were the "same") The only time this becomes an issue is if you are using something other than a Radio Shack relay. Anyway, if you look closely at the bottom of the relay you will see numbers next to the connections. Simply plug the correct wires to the number.

Green / Black Stripe

Violet (one end of your "Y" cable)

Violet (the other end of your "Y" cable)

Pink

Green

Blue

Red / Black Stripe

Ground

Finishing up
Here's a shot of what it looks like before being put back together. I've taken a bit more electrician's tape and wrapped up the loose ends and made all of the connections.

Testing your project

Plug the connection back in to the 4wd control module.

Turn on the key to run but don't start the engine and press the locker button.

You should hear the relay click and the rear locker motor activate. (neither of them make much noise so listen carefully)

If you heard both of them go on to the next step otherwise make sure your connections are correct.

Take a short drive. I did this on the quiet, paved street in front of my house. (you're not going to hurt anything if you go slow and just feel for the bind and then back off)

In 2wd press the locker button. The locker light will no longer flash. It only lights when engaged. The light should turn on and you should feel a bind in the rear when turning slowly from left to right.

Push the locker button again and the light should turn off. You may need to turn slowly back and forth to relieve the bind.

Repeat steps 6 and 7 in 4wd Hi and 4wd Lo. You are feeling and listening for the rear locker to engage and disengage.

Everything worked as expected? Yes, then go put your truck back together. No, go check your connections to the relay.

The final assembly
And the final picture before putting the glove box back in. You can see in the background where I grounded the relay. The loose bits have been corralled with a cable tie and the relay cable tied to the main wiring harness. (for clarities sake I have removed the second plug from the 4wd control module. In your project you shouldn't have to remove it, but if you do make sure to put it back.)

Put the glove box back
It is the reverse of taking it out. And you are all done.

That's it. I would rate the project a 4 on a scale of 10. It's not hard, but you are cutting the wiring of your truck and if you break rule #1 it could be expensive to fix.

Oh yeah and here is my rant
(rant)all over the internet people post instructional threads and then say “don't try this at home folks.” WTF really? Are they some how responsible for my actions? It seem so condescending to me. If you see someone do something stupid and then you do the same damn thing aren't you the one that is responsible? If it seems reasonable and later turns out to be stupid aren't you the one that is responsible? If they did it right and you do it wrong aren't you the one that is responsible? If you follow my instructions and it goes badly, I am sorry. My purpose here is to help. I just think everyone should follow rule #1 “don't be stupid” also rule #2 is important as well “take responsibility for yourself.” (/rant)
Click to expand...

Log in or Sign up

Welcome to Tacoma World!

Locker Anytime Mod for Dummies 2005+

#121
EDDO

#122
Norton Senior Member

#123
ninja89 HUH?

#124
ninja89 HUH?

#125
badmonkey Active Member

#126
ninja89 HUH?

#127
jsi [OP] Well-Known Member

#128
ninja89 HUH?

#129
ninja89 HUH?

#130
EDDO

#131
ninja89 HUH?

#132
ninja89 HUH?

#133
EDDO

#134
ninja89 HUH?

#135
EDDO

#136
ninja89 HUH?

#137
EDDO

#138
ninja89 HUH?

#139
ninja89 HUH?

#140
EDDO

Products Discussed in

Log in or Sign up

Useful Searches

Welcome to Tacoma World!

Locker Anytime Mod for Dummies 2005+

#121 EDDO

#122 Norton Senior Member

#123 ninja89 HUH?

#124 ninja89 HUH?

#125 badmonkey Active Member

#126 ninja89 HUH?

#127 jsi [OP] Well-Known Member

#128 ninja89 HUH?

#129 ninja89 HUH?

#130 EDDO

#131 ninja89 HUH?

#132 ninja89 HUH?

#133 EDDO

#134 ninja89 HUH?

#135 EDDO

#136 ninja89 HUH?

#137 EDDO

#138 ninja89 HUH?

#139 ninja89 HUH?

#140 EDDO

Products Discussed in Entire Site Forum: 2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015) Thread: Locker Anytime Mod for Dummies 2005+

#121
EDDO

#122
Norton Senior Member

#123
ninja89 HUH?

#124
ninja89 HUH?

#125
badmonkey Active Member

#126
ninja89 HUH?

#127
jsi [OP] Well-Known Member

#128
ninja89 HUH?

#129
ninja89 HUH?

#130
EDDO

#131
ninja89 HUH?

#132
ninja89 HUH?

#133
EDDO

#134
ninja89 HUH?

#135
EDDO

#136
ninja89 HUH?

#137
EDDO

#138
ninja89 HUH?

#139
ninja89 HUH?

#140
EDDO

Products Discussed in