How To Remove CV Axle+Replace Front Wheel Bearing 2nd Gen

Did the replacement last night! went super smooth. got a huge slide hammer from a local shop and made the job super easy!
Words of caution!

When you pull the ABS sensor..... be super super careful.... or just yank the bi$$ch out and buy a new one on Amazon for 18$ (

Left (Driver's Side) Front/Rear ABS Wheel Speed Sensor for Toyota & Lexus Vehicles 89543-04020

https://www.amazon.com/Drivers-Sensor-Toyota-Vehicles-89543-04020/dp/B00QML9X22) =]

oh.... and if you have the bearing module super loose, but for some reason it wont come out, just take a piece of wood and a hammer and smack the CV back.... once that was un-bound everything came off super easy!


DON'T forget your stone shield.... or you'll be just like me and back at it again for another 45 mins.

Great write up!

 

In place of this CV axle - 665235 (cardone #), has anyone used the HD version? Is it worth the extra $? ($72 vs 50, on rockauto)

CARDONE SELECT 665235HD {#4343004070, 4343060060, 4343060080, 4343060081, 4343060082} Info
Fits Front Left; Supplied w/Optional Heavy Duty Thermoplastic Outboard Boot

 

Thanks for the post! Going to try to change my bearing/hub assemblies this weekend.

 

Good thread. Just read thru.

 

Hope it helps!

 

@Coot83

 

Is changing the CV axles out harder with a 6" Fabtech lift?

 

I'm not sure. I've never read on those but I would assume its the same procedure. You might wanna ask around on the FB TW page or TTE Facebook page.

 

I agree with ^^^
Should be the same procedure. I'm curious how often you'll have to replace the cv with a 6" lift.

 

Shouldn't be all that often since the premise behind a DB lift is to keep the cv angles very close to stock

 

So I havent seen this question come up very often. I recently did the needle bearing replacement and replaced the CV shaft as well. I remember when I pulled the CV axle out, the axle had a little left to right wiggle to it, same as the passenger CV shaft. After I removed the old CV shaft and replaced the bearing with the ECGS Bushing, I installed the new CV shaft and after wrestling with it got it to a point where it felt like it seated in. However the new CV shaft does not have the same Left to right wiggle the old one had. No grinding noises or anything weird so far, but my question is should it be that tight? or did it just not seat in far enough? First time I have ever done this, so was curious for any insight, am I over thinking it or do I need to look at it again? (really dont want to take it all the way apart again if I dont have to).

 

It's fine, that is what the bushing is designed to do.

 

Maybe I stated the question incorrectly? I know the bushing is suppose to remove the 0.050" movement the old needle bearing let it have. I guess I meant to ask about the in/out movement to the diff, or would the bushing make this extra tight as well.

 

Great write up. Started this project tonight and pretty much every question I had was answered complete with part#s. I am a former 3rd gen T4R guy and just diving in to the world of Tacomas. Thanks to all contributors...

 

Glad it helped!

 

It absolutely did, I'll be ordering up NJ636's assembly on Friday when the money comes,

 

Subbed

 

@Lots2Learn58 @Coot83

 

I'm getting ready to swap out my wheel bearing hub assemblies and cv axles on both sides. Headed to the parts store this morning to order what I need.

I saw part #s listed in the OP, but just wanted clarification.

Can anybody look at my side view sketch and tell me the part #s for the 4 seals indiicated.

I believe #1 is 710573

 

#1 OEM Part # 90316-A0001 or National Timken Part # 710573.
#2 OEM Part # 90304-A0001
#3 Unknown
#4 #

$12 90311-47027 Toyota Oil Seal - 90311-47027

90311-47027 for the Driver Side, Part # 90311-47026 for the Passenger Side, and these two seals are set in the differential.

When I pulled my CV I only replaced #2,#3 The other seals were fine.