Frame restoration - did it myself

You have to cover areas that get direct sunlight. POR-15 will last through anything other than direct sunlight. For me I covered the frame visible behind the wheels, and the rear axle. Reflected sunlight does not matter.

 

Did some of this today on some parts like I always do with my toys/bikes/camper. I do not get as involved like you did but I just take a wire wheel, drill, and anything like a wire brush and get all the rust and chips off. Then use zinc primer, then black paint, then some undercoating

 

Just chiming in and keeping this thread relavent.

I'm in the middle of this project right now working section by section. Today I got underneath with the needle scaler and 4.5" grinder w/wire wheel, and went after the crossmembers and drivers side frame to the front leaf spring mount. If nothing else this project is time consuming. I'm working on the ground in my driveway and am waiting on the Prep & Etch as I type this message. I'll rinse it off in a bit and will paint tomorrow. That will leave me with the front leaf mounts to the bumper and I'll be done.

FYI, I've gone with Chassis Saver, antique satin by Magnet Paints because I had great results with thsir Monstaliner in my Jeep tub.

 

Did you think about using the POR-15 Top Coat for areas that are exposed to sunlight?

http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Top-Coat_p_102.html

 

Anyone heard of LPS Rust Inhibitor and whether it would be good to coat the frame?

 

I've never heard of it but looks like it's more for indoor use. If I were to go with a wax type coating I'd go with Waxoyl.

I'm thinking of Eastwood Internal Frame Coating for the boxed sections. I don't think I can stop the rust, but if I can slow it down significantly I'd be happy.
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle-qt.html

 

I would pay someone to do all of this. Not going to attempt. My 97 TJ could use it for sure.

 

I sprayed this down the boxed sections of my frame. Unfortunately there's no way to really, really clean the scale and debris. I washed the crap out of the insides using high pressure spray and air but figure on using a couple of thick coats to basically just epoxy whatever's left in place. I used I think 2 cans on each side, but that was excessive. Three cans is probably more than enough. This stuff is thin, make sure you tape all the weep holes and openings and cover the floor under the truck since it will run out everywhere.

 

What size air compressor did you use?? All I can afford is the 8 gal tank! Think that will be good enough for the needle scaler?

 

Thinking about taking the box off to do more.....any suggestions ?

 

Nice job! I tried the same on my '06 using Magnet Paints "chassis saver". I cleaned and prepped everything and then brushed it on. Unfortunately I didn't realize that the satin version of chassis saver is intended to be top coated, the gloss version which I didn't want, does not require this. Within a year later it looked almost as bad as before I did it. Fast forward, I traded the truck and the new owner is waiting on a frame replacement.

I've had friends use POR15 on their hot rods, that's a much better product IMO.

 

Impressive! Searching "hours" didn't return a post with an estimate of how long this took you... Can you share a guesstimate? 20? 30? Thanks!

 

No one cares! Your truck is fine!

 

That sucks. Any type of coating like that is just a preventative barrier and isn't supposed to be applied over rust. If they do it does exactly zero other than hide the cancer while it spreads.

 

OP, when you coated your frame...how did you choose what to paint over and what to tape off? I'm thinking bolt heads specifically. Just my luck i'd coat a bolt thinking i'd never need to remove it, then the thing connected to it would break the next day.

my inclination would be to tape off more than I think i have to...better safe than sorry. wondering how you approached it.

 

I'd prep and paint over everything including bolts. If you wanted to preserve them I'd take them out (such as suspension fasteners perhaps), coat under where they sit, chase and then anti-sieze or grease the threads when you put it back in.

If they have to be removed for some reason I'd rather disturb an intact coating and do a touch up than to leave existing rust and new edges where moisture and corrosion are going get starts.

The point of paint and anti-corrosion coatings are to seal the metal to deny rust oxygen and moisture. It's usually corners, edges and scratches where rusts gets it's start.

 

good points dave - anyone ever remove POR-15 before? my guess is that a dremel with wire brush would be good enough to get good contact with a socket again...but, haven't tried it.

 

I'd have killed to have rust only that bad. I traded my 2003 sr5 4x Tuesday (miss you, old paint) for a 2015. great job, tho'.

 

i have been using fluid film for two years now- seems to work well