JOYING Android 5.1.1 double-din thread

Has anyone had engine noise issues? Mine seems to be isolated to the front right speaker port on the head unit. I bought a noise isolator, but that did nothing for me. I'm wondering if it would help to patch into the hu ground wire and tie it directly into the chassis.

 

No engine noise for me. I have had one instance of strangely weak FM reception, but that's it.

 

Its got to be related to your amplifier (JBL).
Ok, here's a psychotic engineer's trick to try to kill the noise;
You've heard of aluminum foil deflector beanies? http://zapatopi.net/afdb/
Kinda like this;


The problem is with the MLB satellites;


What we are going to try, is building an aluminum foil deflector beanie for your wiring.
So what you're going to do, is get some aluminum foil, and wrap all of the wires individually. Don't make it thick or bunchy, just once or twice around. Don't use any tape, because you need these foil shields to be electrically common.
Once you have all the different wires and components individually wrapped, then wrap the ENTIRE BUNDLE with its own layer. EVERYTHING, including the JBL adapter box.
Now take a piece of stranded wire, and strip about 6 inches of insulation off of one end, and wrap that around the outer foil.
Connect the other end of the wire to chassis or other solid point of good negative voltage.
And throw some tape on it to hold it all together nicely.

Basically what this does, is it will capture all the stray RF noise and shunt it into the negative terminal of the battery. Not only will it be able to capture external RF, but it will also (since you are wrapping each wire individually) catch any RF that is being created by self.


I'll tell you a story about how this little trick helped me.
I have a 2003 Yamaha RX1 snowmobile. 4-stroke 1000cc 4 cyl. It has some significant gearing and traction modifications, which necessitated changes to the clutching to get it to shift out more aggressively. After a year or two with the modified clutching, the thing started idling rough and bogging or dying completely when opening the throttle. No number of carb cleanings, plug changes, coil swaps, etc. had ANY impact on it. Out of desperation, I started swapping parts over from another identical machine that worked correctly. When I got to the ECU, suddenly it started running normally. Tried my ECU in the other one, and what do you know? Runs normally. Reinstalled the ECU back to its bracket, and not working. Is it a flakey wire? Tried swapping the harness. Nope. The harness was fine. Wrapped the ECU in aluminum foil. BANG, working normal.

Turns out that the aftermarket steel clutch weights had become magnetized. I park the machine in my garage such that the weights were inline with earth's magnetic field lines. When the engine was spinning at just the right speed, it produced an RF wave that knocked out the ECU. That "just right" speed was about 300 rpm above idle. Idle speed was close enough to mess with it a bit, but it would still kind of run.

 

Yea, from what I've look into, they are in fact the same actual ODB device. The reason some other ODB 2 devices aren't recognized is because the Joying firmware needs the bluetooth device named specifically ODB2 or ODBII through bluetooth.

 

I bought the one they recommended (which is called obd2) but have never been able to get it to connect. I got the hu to see it once. But that's the best I got. After a couple hours of troubleshooting, I gave up. When I need to I just connect to a different one I bought previously via wifi on my iphone.
If anyone has one they were able to get connected right away without any issues, I'd be interested in knowing which one it is.

 

Yep, the other key is that the head unit always reports to software that Bluetooth is off (or it's oscillating between on and off), so only the torque software installed on the heat unit (which they've hacked to ignore that) works with the specially named devices.

Word is that they are working on a fix for the Bluetooth stack, but only time will tell if that pans out.

 

Haven't tried it yet, but I saw this up on XDA, supposedly allows for button mapping of anything:

http://forum.xda-developers.com/and...ease-mtcdtools-control-music-players-t3436789

Not sure if it needs root or not.

Edit, this works great. No root needed.

 

Oh damn this is nice!! I see an upgrade in the future. Running android lolipop you "could" (take some tweaking) Run kodi from a usb stick or Amazon fire stick and stream video. Dependent on internet connection speed of course.

 

OBDII bluetooth on joying website.

JOYING Mini Elm327 OBD2 Scanner Blueooth Diagnostic for Car Android Auto Dongle Torque Pro Android Head Unit Car Stereo Radio DVD Player

https://www.amazon.com/Blueooth-Dia...?srs=9101863011&ie=UTF8&qid=1481613906&sr=8-8

 

Yes, that OBDII adapter does work with the head unit (though it's too pricey - these cheaper ones @ ~$5-10 also work - here, here, and here), but it's also limited to using Torque there because of some funkiness with the Bluetooth - just as an fyi. I've actually found that I end up using my phone for DashCommand with my Kiwi3 and I have Waze running on the Joying head unit. Works out great.

 

Y'all are a bunch of enablers. Again.

Got one of these coming for my 12, stock radio keeps losing the pairing, that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it...

 

Factory settings pin, I read that it's 126, but my new unit says that's wrong. Abby suggestions guys?

 

Found it online, 3368 for the newer units.

 

Sorry to resurrect an old discussion. But my screen no longer is touch capable. Has anyone had similar problems?

I took it apart to see if it was the connections. But they were all tight unfortunately.