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Any woodworkers?

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by Forster46, Mar 31, 2013.

  1. Sep 21, 2016 at 4:46 AM
    #381
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    What's everyone's preferred finish?
     
  2. Sep 21, 2016 at 5:32 AM
    #382
    cbrboy

    cbrboy Well-Known Member

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    Very beautiful work in here guys:thumbsup: I do antique furniture conservation for a living. I don't do alot of larger stuff yet as a hobby.more jewelry boxes,frames etc. Trying to dig up some pics for you guys.@98tacoma27 I preffer shellac,from flake and a hand rubbed finish with a cotton cloth (fad)
     
  3. Sep 21, 2016 at 5:36 AM
    #383
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    Nice, I think I'm going to try that on my next project. Do you use all types with regard to color (amber, clear, or dyes)?
     
  4. Sep 21, 2016 at 5:41 AM
    #384
    PintSize

    PintSize Crossthreaded & torqued down

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    Depends on the project. I often use Minwax oilbased poly and I like Minwax water based poly. Sometimes I'll use shellac, or just boiled linseed oil. I use milk paint too, then rub a coat of BLO on for good measure.
     
  5. Sep 21, 2016 at 5:43 AM
    #385
    cbrboy

    cbrboy Well-Known Member

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    It's very much worth it. Shows the depth of the grain of wood so much better than any other finish in my opinion. Alot more work filling the pore of the wood but like i said so worth it. Yes,i do. The 2 that i use are a garnett a button. The garnett is a little darker and dries harder. The button is more blonde and is softer. We buy 50lb sacks of the flake and melt it down with alcohol in house.
     
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  6. Sep 21, 2016 at 5:45 AM
    #386
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    Do you use wax as a final coat or at all?
     
  7. Sep 21, 2016 at 5:51 AM
    #387
    cbrboy

    cbrboy Well-Known Member

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    As a matter of fact i do. Once i get the appropriate sheen i want i steel wool for the last time and use either minwax paste wax (special dark) or i use Harells paste wax. SMOOTH;)
     
  8. Sep 21, 2016 at 5:55 AM
    #388
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    Definitely putting that on my to try list. I typically use minwax products, stuff you get from your local hardware store. I need to venture out.
     
  9. Sep 21, 2016 at 6:05 AM
    #389
    cbrboy

    cbrboy Well-Known Member

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    Minwax products are fine,really. Being a conservator i have to be careful what i use to ensure the integrity and value of the furniture. Can't spray lacquer on a 17th century piece lol. Hopefully within the next year or so I'll have my shop at home up and running and can contribute to these beautiful pieces everyone is putting out.
     
  10. Sep 23, 2016 at 11:35 AM
    #390
    Street Taco

    Street Taco Consistently Inconsistent

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    Are you planning to use a wood conditioner before you stain?
     
  11. Sep 24, 2016 at 6:24 AM
    #391
    robssol

    robssol If it ain't broke, leave it the eff alone!

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    Hmmm... baby pellets
     
  12. Sep 24, 2016 at 6:41 AM
    #392
    evansdmax

    evansdmax Well-Known Member

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    Hey fellas I'm a machinist/toolmaker for 5 years now.... my dad is a self employed carpenter/cabinet maker. I'm going to community college now for construction/ cabinet making. Can't wait to get out of the machine shop!
     
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  13. Sep 25, 2016 at 8:32 PM
    #393
    wileyC

    wileyC Well-Known Member

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    ...i've only got limited experience thus far, but... i tend to pick the finish based on the size and intended useage/environment for the project... for small projects i like to use shellac applied w/ just a cloth because it's easy (work fast!) and dries quickly permitted the building of layers in short time... larger products where i want a film finish for protection and luster, i like arm-r-seal oil-based urethane satin and minwax wipe-on-poly, ..both easy to apply w/ cloth.. for shop furniture, and anything where i a more natural texture/feel and satin sheen is needed, can't beat danish oil.. i've found w/ danish oil i can build the finish in thin layers (brillo pad in between coats) to provide a bit of a deeper look, that i think looks great on red oak...
     
  14. Sep 25, 2016 at 8:41 PM
    #394
    wileyC

    wileyC Well-Known Member

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    probably a few different ways of doing it w handtools, ..what i've done is a first-class cut on either side to delineate the walls of the dado, and then probably put some saw kerfs in between the walls, depending on the width of the dado course... then w/ the chisel, pare out the material next to the walls at an angle so that when looking at the side profile you're left w/ a triangular shape, then that waste is more easily chopped out w/ the chisel, ..and usually you'll want to clean it up to a uniform depth with a router plane... basically layout is important and you have to be careful of tearout on either end of the dado and be sure to chop and cut just shy of baselines...

    ...a rabbet plane, or a shoulder plane, can also be used to cut dados in less steps if you've got them...
     
  15. Sep 25, 2016 at 8:43 PM
    #395
    wileyC

    wileyC Well-Known Member

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    nice looking design! ..are those breadboard-style ends extend-able "leafs"?... what's the finishing plan?!?
     
  16. Sep 25, 2016 at 9:30 PM
    #396
    PintSize

    PintSize Crossthreaded & torqued down

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    Yep exactly. I scribe a line with a marking knife on either side where I'll cut the dado. Then I use a chissel and pair out some material so I have a clean line to get the saw blade, and then kerf in do the desired dado depth and pair with a chissel.
     
  17. Sep 25, 2016 at 9:51 PM
    #397
    wileyC

    wileyC Well-Known Member

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    yep, i learned that from watching paul sellers vids, ..i believe he calls it defining a "knife wall" and making a "first class" cut... for small to medium sized dados, or dados that are sufficiently longer than the saw plate, i prefer to use a specialty plane like a rabbet plane (w/ scoring spurs) or a shoulder plane... i find a shoulder plane to be one of the most versatile tools, making many tasks easier, and with precision...
     
  18. Sep 26, 2016 at 3:53 AM
    #398
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.

    Finish my niece's music box. Black walnut with a red oak base. Finished with Minwax wax.
     
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  19. Sep 26, 2016 at 7:07 AM
    #399
    Lifeofbrian

    Lifeofbrian Longing for the far East

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    Stuff
    I just got a scroll saw yesterday, wow, what a fun tool. So i am making a wood emblem. Kinda silly i know but I really want a Colorado flag emblem so i figured i would make one and see how it comes out. this is after about 15 minutes of scrolling and sanding.

    20160925_200940.jpg
     
  20. Sep 26, 2016 at 7:17 AM
    #400
    11x

    11x Well-Known Member

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    Not a wood worker by any means but I did make this coat rack for a good friends wedding present Saturday. The shoes are from their horses.

    image.jpg
    image.jpg
     
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